Help me date/identify hand sewn Christian Dior ball gown

nsvintage

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P7270238.JPGP7270239.JPGP7270240.JPGP7270241.JPGP7270242.JPGP7270243.JPGP7270244.JPGP7270245.JPGP7270246.JPGP7270247.JPG New but longtime reader.... I purchased this dress for $6 at an estate sale and have been desperately searching for HOURS trying to identify. Label reads Christian Dior U.K regd. I know there is another similar label. No numbers behind and I pulled a few threads on edge of label to see if any thing had been cut off found only a small black o at very top that looks to be intact. Has supports inside and everything looks to have been done by hand. Weighs at least 5 pounds, metal zipper marked lightning. Paste stones. Label is sewn onto flap in front of dress at bust. Glass beads look to be lily of the valley design. It is so beautiful !! light blue satin color..... Staining looks nowhere near as bad as photos, I had crap lighting!! I am at a total loss!!!!
 
The interior finishing is correct for a Dior, but it has been severely altered (at the time) by someone who had a small bust and short, thick waist. The alterations look to be department store quality and judging by the UK registration number, this was made for Dior London - probably sold through some place like Selfridges. Have you looked behind the label? There might be a bolduc (cotton tape with hand written number on it), or possibly (although unlikely) a date on the bottom of the label which appears to be folded under. It's a princess line sheath with V neck, which suggests to me 1958-60ish.
 
No dates or numbers sadly. If it was made for Dior London could it have been designed by YSL or Bohan or would there have been other unknown designers just for London? (thought I read that somewhere) Although altered do you think because of it's age that it would fetch a far price at auction? My goal was to find a picture somewhere but I think that is next to impossible. Thank you so much for your expertise.
 
I'll double your money right now!

I suspect someone who is more familiar with the Dior London line may be able to narrow the date more by its label - I am not sure when Christian Dior London was operating - if it were Canada or the U.S. I could help...
 
I would date your dress as early '60s but the late '50s could be correct, as Dior would be fashion forward.

I wish that I could handle your dress because it confuses me: as Jonathan said, it's been altered. The bust has been taken in, but the beadwork is sewn over the alteration so either it was added after the work was done, or it's an applique and the alterations sewer unpicked and resewed them. Also, I would expect a facing at the neck and arm openings - in any evening dress of this time, much less one by Dior. The presence of binding doing the job of the facing suggests another alteration: for example, the neckline was changed and/or the sleeves were removed. It's not even a matching colour, which suggests that the seamstress wasn't very skilled or equipped.

In any case, you made a very wise purchase: even with the alterations and updatings (?) it's an extremely reasonably priced gown. By the way, I would call it hand finished rather than hand sewn, as it's likely to be mostly machine sewn.
 
If the bias tape used for the binding is cotton, I think we can safely say it wasn't original. As Nicole noted, a contrast color is odd, and then it it's cotton, it was most likely a purchased notion rather than a piece of fabric form the workshop. Still could have been alteration of the original owner, though. I'm sure this has a good shape when it's on a form.

Hollis
 
I have seen that bias tape in grey and taupe before - not matching the dress colour, and the beadwork being sewn over the alteration is a good thing - that's why I think it was an original alteration for the dress in a department store - its boutique, so the dress was already made up and just altered for the client. I have a Balmain that has similar alterations where the beadwork was unpicked and redone over the new seam. I think it also uses a non-matching facing tape.

I don't know what you mean by facing Nicole - there is a facing at the neckline and arms - that's the grey tape, right?
 
Actually, this dress is fully lined, so the lining does the job of a facing (which is a kind of half-lining), but I would not expect a binding unless it has been altered.
 
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