Help me put a date on this older dress

fuzzylizzie

fuzzylizzie

Alumni
I've had this one forever, and had forgotten about it. This is a quite large size, 2 piece dress. It's made from a white on black cotton print. Any information is greatly appreciated!

<img src=http://members.sparedollar.com/fuzzylizzie/calico.jpg>

<img src=http://members.sparedollar.com/fuzzylizzie/calico2.jpg>

<img src=http://members.sparedollar.com/fuzzylizzie/calico4.jpg>

<img src=http://members.sparedollar.com/fuzzylizzie/calico5.jpg>

Thanks,
Lizzie
 
That is a neat dress and an excellent example of everyday wear for a working class woman or what an older lady would have worn. Everyday normal people dresses are hard to find as they tended to be worn until they fell apart or were cut down and made into clothes for the kids. Unfortunately, because they were worn by women as everyday work clothes or by older ladies, they can be a bit hard to date precisely as they weren't meant to be up to the minute in fashion garments. They tend to be a mish mash of styles preffered by the owner from pervious fashion with a hint of current styling.

The length and fit of the bodice along with the multitude of buttons down the front and back bustle peplum suggests an 1880's cuirass style bodice. The gathered sleeves which sort of look like they are trying to be Leg 'O Mutton in style would say a date of the mid 1890's.

The full skirt doesn't really have any shaping for any particular era, it seems that the original owner just wanted a generic skirt that would be would be comfortable moving around and doing housework in but would still be able to wear a little pad bustle for special occasions like church.

I'm going to say a date of the early-mid 1890's just as the Leg 'O Mutton sleeve was becoming fashionable but it could be an older dress that was revamped a little during the 1890's too. Without seeing the construction and the lining, it's hard to say exactly.

Lei
 
Excellent information Lei!

Lizzie, this looks like it is in wonderful condition....looking forward to seeing the interior shots.

Sue
 
and had forgotten about it.

The stuff I remember is not nearly as nice as somethings people forget they have LOL Sift around in the forgotten pile some more, Lizzie!
 
Chris, if I EVER get through all the boxes after moving it will be a miracle!

Interior shots:

<img src=http://members.sparedollar.com/fuzzylizzie/calicoint1.jpg>

<img src=http://members.sparedollar.com/fuzzylizzie/calicoint2.jpg>

<img src=http://members.sparedollar.com/fuzzylizzie/calicoint3.jpg>

The maker used a combination of hand and machine stitching. The waistband of the skirt is made from rough muslin, as is the pocket.

<img src=http://members.sparedollar.com/fuzzylizzie/calico7.jpg>
 
The lining and the number of panels that the bodice is made up of is typical of late 19th century clothing. It's still hard to say whether it's a 1880's bodice that was updated for 1890's use but seeing the inside, I'm rather more inclined to say that it was made in the mid 1890's with the original owner preferring an 1880's style of bodice for the body.
Since most bodices during the late 19th century were heavily boned, the lack of bones in this one generally means that it was an everyday work outfit OR for an older lady who wanted comfort instead of fashion.

The skirt is a generic skirt for comfort or work without the fashionable extremes of full bustle skirts or tight over the hip A-line skirts of the 1890's. The gauging around the waistband is typical of the mid 19th century whch also makes me think this dress was for an older woman who would have been used to wearing gauged skirts when she was younger in the 1840's to 1860's. The gauging would have allowed the wearer to easily add a little crescent shaped bustle pad for special occasions without being too ostentatious.

The machine and handsewing is typical for Victorian stuff too. Sometimes you see fully handsewn things right into the Edwardian era and other times you find 1860's dresses fully machine sewn. It just depended how good they were at using the machine or if they had access to one.

You should do well with this if it is a larger size as you will get the Victorian re-enactors wanting this to wear especially those who don't corset as tight as me to events! :P Alot of women I know who attend the period events that I go to, don't even like wearing corsets under there costumes so this will appeal to those types.

Lei
 
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