Help, please with this Abby Kent dress

MyVintageCocktail

MyVintageCocktail

VFG Member
Oh, dear I have a lot of questions on this cute dress. I would really appreciate your help! Pardon the overabundance of photos, but I need to show them to get proper input on my questions.

Ok, first, dating. I "think" this is 50s, but I'm thinking earlier than later? The skirt seems longish for later into the 50s, and the print looks more like something you might have seen in the 40s. Could it be late 40s? I have another Abby Kent dress from the 50s, and that label is the one with the red embroidered name; this label looks earlier, but I've not seen it before. Has side metal zip with hidden, on-seam pockets both sides. Pinked seams.

Also, I doubt it's meant to be worn with a full crinoline, but without any, the wide neckline seems to be overbearing; with a medium crini underneath, I think the look is more balanced. What do you all think?

And, lastly, the fabric. This has me kinda stumped. I'm almost positive it is silk taffeta, but because of the pinked seams, I can't find a place to snip some to do a burn test. It has the luster of silk on the outside, and is very thin (in a good way!) & lightweight. The wrong side is dull, no sheen. What is rather odd is that the insets on the neckline (hope you can see them in the photo) and the skirt are very crisp, so the neckline insets stay "up," and the skirt doesn't totally droop without a crini. It's almost like a polished cotton, but stiffer. BUT, the bodice is soft and comfy. I thought at first this was just due to the fact that the bodice would exhibit more wear from being close to the body, but now I'm pretty sure this is how this was made. So, would they have used pieces of treated and untreated fabric in the same pattern to make this dress? And do you think it is silk?

Thanks ever so much, and sorry for all the questions, but this one's a stumper for me!

With medium-full crini:
Kentfrontw_crini.jpg


Without crini:
Kentfront.jpg


With:
kentbackw_crini.jpg


Without:
kentback.jpg


Bodice/neckline:
Kentbodice.jpg
]

Print:
kentfabric.jpg


kentlabel.jpg
 
I'm no good at dating thata why I am on here so much... I can not offer any expert advice... but if it were my piece I would go with 40s... I get a 40s feel from it!

But then again thats personally not professionally!!!... got a few more years befoe I can fall into that category lol!
 
Thank you, Jluthye and trell.... I was really starting to lean late 40s the more I looked at it, and y'all have helped me over the edge! Late 40s it is, then!

And do you like it with or without the crinoline?
 
hahah well the crini question lol... I like the front better without but the back better with haha...

I think over all I like the look without the crinoline better and it shows that this is puffy without an itchy crinoline under it which would be a plus from a buyers prospective.

as far as the dating like I said I am still learning. the sleves are kinda that style that goes both ways, But ive seen them more in 1950s patterns, the neckline was iffy to me too. But the bow and the length and poof without the crini is whay made me go to the 40s... but its personal... i wouild list as 40s cusper then in listing state it is possibly 40s/50s... thats how I get around Im not sure lol
 
I thought your dress was '50s until you turned her around - the back of the bodice with the shoulder/sleeve line is very '40s. I don't think she would have been worn with a crini, she just has a nice full skirt.

No idea on the fabric although I'd expect polished cotton or rayon.

Nicole
 
Hi Suzanne! Glad you weighed in on this. It is one of my very favorites of the ones I got from you (thank you again, BTW), and has intrigued me.... I like Abby Kents, and this is my oldest one.

Linn, the label is woven, but the fabric's pattern is printed.

And, ladies, can you assist me on one more question (sorry, I don't usually have this many questions on an item!). I have discovered a small hole at the back of the dress, pin-head sized or a tad larger. (Which is one reason I thought this was silk and not acetate, as this type of hole can be common with older silk.)

Do you think I should attempt to darn it--using silk thread split into a finer filament, and a very thin needle--or treat it with Fray-Check and leave (with disclosure if I sell, but if this is anywhere near fitting me--I haven't dared try it on yet--I'm keeping it!)? It isn't noticeable unless you are looking for it or you happen to "stumble across it" as I did. The fabric is very thin and flat, which is why I hesitate to mend; with a fabric with more texture I wouldn't hesitate to do so.
 
If I were selling it online I'd leave it, but in my B&M I darn every tiny hole. It depends of course, on where it is and how visible it is. I find it hard to sell garments with holes but when buying, I'd rather do the mend myself.

Please don't use fray stop. I appreciate it's an easy fix but once it's in there, I'm not sure if you can get it out.

Nicole
 
Nicole, thanks for your perspective! I know what you mean--I'd rather do repairs myself when buying, as I can typically can do them more meticulously than I "assume" others will--I'm willing to take the time to be neat, and I've seen things from other sellers done obviously in a hurry! But as regards the mending, when I am mending something that is not a heavier weave, I usually use Fray-Check to stabilize the edges first, so that the needle & thread going through won't further separate the fabric and make the hole worse. It's invisible, or nearly so, when it dries and I find it usually makes a neater mend. I only dab it on with the end of a toothpick, so it doesn't bleed into the body of the fabric. If there is any residual stiffness left, I find it disappears (not the compund but the stiffi-ness) with washing or dry cleaning--even if in the dryer with a Dryel sheet. With this dress, anyway, since it's already a stiffened fabric, I doubt it could hurt at all.

Have you had an issue with this stuff? Is Fray Stop the same as Fray Check? Maybe they are 2 different things? In my experience, there's very little downside to using it, other than maybe 1 or 2 times it slightly darkened the area, but not so much as to be noticeable to most people.
 
This is a dress from about 1951 -54 and not earlier. The fabric could be glazed cotton or a cotton and silk blend. By the middle of the decade synthetics like acetate and Dacron were imitating these natural fibres.

Indian inspired prints with gold were in fashion and again this is a good example. It needs a petticoat (crinoline) although the back is cut in panels and appears flat.
 
Hi Mary Catherine--great to "see" you! And I "knew" there must be a name for that, and how dumb am I--given that I "only" collect men's neckties and have a ton of silk foulards.... Never thought to apply it to a dress.... Thanks!
 
Anne, I think fray stop and fray check are the same thing: I'm glad to hear your positive results, I haven't had success but wonder if I used too much? It seemed like a low grade glue to me. I'm starting to get very fussy (and old fashioned) about my repairs!

Nicole
 
Ah, Nicole, I'm guessing you did use too much. It's not really supposed to be like a glue. It only "seals" the edges of holes or areas that are fraying and likely to continue to fray if left alone. As I said, I dab it on with the end or edge of a toothpick so as not to use too much. I used to use a cotton swab, but found that even that, unless I have a large area to seal, applied too much. And I never, ever use it just straight from the bottle with the nozzle.... If you do get too much on, rubbing alcohol will take off the excess (assuming you're not working with something you can't use alcohol on). It really can come in handy!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top