Help with an Earlier Piece

Meloo

Meloo

VFG Member
I have this piece that I'm really struggling with and am hoping that perhaps someone who has more knowledge of earlier pieces might be able to help.The person who owned it said that she thinks it dates to around 1900. It is completely hand-woven...it is all sewn by hand as well, and is lined in silk taffeta, though the lining seems newer than the piece. Scalloped edges, Mandarin collar, gold metal trim along the edges and gold-shot silk....something about it seems MUCH older, and while it definitely has a Middle Eastern feel, I'm at a loss for what to call it and the unusual sleeves....I would be eternally grateful for any thoughts...keywords anything!! Thank you so much!! ~Melissa

The pictures are rough, but I (hope) you can get a feel for the lines and fabric.

<IMG SRC=http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/meloo2/.mids/ch0.jpg><IMG SRC=http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/meloo2/.mids/ch1.jpg>

<IMG SRC=http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/meloo2/.mids/ch2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/meloo2/.mids/ch3.jpg>

<IMG SRC=http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/meloo2/.mids/ch4.jpg><IMG SRC=http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/meloo2/.mids/ch5.jpg>
 
Pretty piece but I'm not much help at all.

I'm not seeing what I think of a Mandarin collar though.
I think of Mandarin as a stand up collar kind of like a Nehru collar but without the open space.
 
Thanks Karen!
As I look at the photos, it's hard to see it but it does have a stand-up collar. ~M
 
Karen - look at the photo of the garment on it's side, you can see the collar stands up at the back.

What an unusual piece - I would judge it by the fabric and construction. If the lining looks more modern, is it sewn in as if it's the original or a replacement?

I'd be inclined to think it's a hand made creation of more recent years than 1900, perhaps made in India? Somewhere that hand sewing wasn't that unusual and fine fabrics used. So that's my suggestion - go by the lining and the construction.

Melissa, you're very experienced with fine old garments and fabrics, I'm sure you'll have the knowledge needed to determine. Was it with a lot of similarly dated items?
 
Hi Nicole!
Thank you so much for your response!
No, it is a consignment and was the only piece of this age. I feel like it's something really good...if that makes sense, and I want to do it justice but I haven't been able to find anything similar. I am almost certain that it is earlier than the 1900's...the textile and construction just seem and feel earlier. The lining is sewn in by hand and it was done quite well but the fabric is at least 50 years later than the rest of the piece.
~Melissa
 
This looks like a ghawazee coat. Origins:generally North Africa, Egypt and Turkey. The bodice often is close fitting but there are many variations. The side openings are very typical. The fabric is machine woven and doesn't look turn of the century. It could even be manufactured today.

Yes, hand sewing/finishing is not unusual for for a garment like this.
 
Thanks for the input...I've been researching in this direction and it is similar, but not the same. This is without a doubt at least 100 years old, but I believe it is older, and I took it to another dealer who agreed it was hand-woven but had never seen anything this old before. My photos are rough, for sure-but I am relatively knowledgeable in vintage c1890-now, but earlier pieces, which I believe this is, are a mystery to me. I absolutely appreciate your input though~Melissa
 
Well, I'm curious. I would be interested to see the reverse side of the woven - what looks like a damask weave produced on a jacquard loom and see the the inside seams. You'd have to unpick the lining. A real good set of close ups would help. Is there top stitching on the fabric - small insert pic?

A specialist in textiles would confirm if this is machine or hand-woven.
 
I love this piece, Meloo! I am brand new here, and also not an expert on this period, but I have been researching some turn-of-the-century pieces of my own lately and something occurred to me about this one. Maybe it is just a crazy idea, but here goes:

It strikes me as part of an early Edwardian tea outfit, loose-fitting, fanciful, with more than a hint of the exotic. I find this period fascinating, and I am afraid I have got too caught up in reading about it lately.

From what I have read, it was customary for ladies to wear something more loose-fitting and comfortable for tea at home (to sit down, perchance to actually breathe!) and the designers gave their imaginations free reign on these particular garments.

What we would now call "ethnic influences" were still strong, what with the interest in archaeological finds (the North African influence comes into play here), and ships plying the seven seas laden with exciting, exotic wares.

Keeping up with the Joneses was particularly difficult during this period .... so is it possible that the lady had her designer/dressmaker make over an earlier piece into a fashionably exotic tea robe? That could explain a lot.

You have the piece in your hands, so of course go with your instincts. It's just an idea that occurred to me, maybe way off base. I'm intrigued with this piece and hope you will share if you find more about it. I'll be most interest to read it!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top