Help with dating a dress -- Edwardian / early 20s / later?

[KM75007]

Hello!

I acquired this dress a while ago -- and I would love insight as to when it might have been made, as well as what it would have been (a mourning dress? a dinner dress that happens to be black? etc.). The construction seems Edwardian or early 1920s, but the silk and lace are so strong and hearty that it makes me wonder if it was reconstructed later from an old pattern.

The dress appears to be made from a silk crepe -- and the outer layer and sleeves are made of filet (?) lace. It has a tunic-style front that snaps at the shoulder, and there are hidden snap closures under the tunic down the front of the bodice (visible in 3rd photo). There are chiffon remnants underneath the tunic in the bodice from something that was cut out (visible in the 3rd photo). The inner waist is constructed with a thick grosgrain (?) ribbon. There is a hip swag that has the seam finishing that I have seen in so many 1920s chiffon dresses (I don't know the proper term -- pinked? It's in the 5th photo). The dress closes with a rather complicated series of metal snaps and hooks...it's pretty tricky to get in and out of it (if that means anything).

I apologize for the poor quality of the pictures...I lightened them to try to show the detail, but if I can provide any others (or any of different areas), I will gladly do so.

Any insight would be much appreciated -- thank you!

 

[PersonalPursuits]

In my humble opinion, your dress looks like to it could be from around the turn of the century, the teens. However, the front panel has me baffled like something is missing, is it possible that there was a lace scarf that was removed? It would have had snaps on each end and would be placed around the neck and draped over the bodice then secured by snaps. The lace looks machine made and I am sorry but I do not know the name for this type of lace. The hip swag is not pinked but rather a type of stitch that strengthens the edges of silk. It often reminds me of faggoting without the ladders. I am sure that there are many experts that will respond to your questions but with the holidays it may take a little time for a response.

 

[Jonathan]

I think its - 1920-1921ish but its difficult to know without seeing it on a mannequin. I would call it an 'after 5' dress - dinner, theatre... that kind of thing. Essentially a cocktail dress before the term cocktail dress existed.

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

I agree that is is had to date it accurately without seeing it on a dress form or mannequin, to determine the waist and hip shaping/silhouettes. It does looks very early 1920s as Jonathan has expressed. It looks as if there is no defined waist line seam? Again, hard to tell from that first photo due to the angle. When you refer to the hip wrap having "seam finishing" do you mean on an actual seam (hidden?) or on the very edge of the fabric and meant to be seen? If it is edging then it is probably what is often referred to as picot edging. I cannot tell from the photo.

 

[PersonalPursuits]

If it is edging then it is probably what is often referred to as picot edging. I cannot tell from the photo

Barbara, thank you for the term and from what I can see I think you are correct. The edging on her dress reminds me of a silk dress I have and from looking up picot edging, you gave me the proper name!

 

[KM75007]

Thank you all for your feedback, and thank you, Barbara, for that term! I did mean the edging, not a hidden seam; I attached a picture (of a totally different dress that is lighter in color) where you can see the type of stitch to which I referred -- the edges of the swag on the black dress are finished exactly like this. Also -- the waist on the inside of the dress is constructed of a very thick grosgrain ribbon with a hook and eye closure -- I attached another picture of this that also shows the side snap closures.

Jonathan -- I do not have a mannequin, but I photographed the dress hanging, in case that helps. In the picture, the waist appears slightly dropped -- so would that, with the tunic top, mean it is consistent with the early 1920s, rather than late teens? (I'm asking, because I am not sure offhand exactly when the drop waist first appeared). Do you think it is not likely to be a mourning dress, but a cocktail dress that is just all black?

I am still confused as to what the chiffon remnants could have been -- they edges are finished near the shoulders, but under the tunic part of the bodice, it looks as if it was torn / cut away (last pictures).

Thank you (all) for your insight!

 

[sMarie]

I recently acquired a very similar dress that is undoubtedly 1920s. If you would like to see the pics, please message me.

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

I have been looking at a few more dresses in my own collection, and looking in some of my 1920 catalogs, and I now agree with Jonathan on a dating of 1920 to 1921. 1920's is a broad range so it helps to narrow it down. In the close ups I am not sure if that is a picot edge, but it sure is very similar.

 

[KM75007]

Thank you!!