Help with dating an evening dress -- late 1930s / 1940s?

KM75007

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Hello!

I would love to have your feedback regarding an evening dress I recently acquired; I'm thinking it's from the later 1930s or (early?) 1940s, but I wanted to get a better idea from those who know more than I do. I am attaching a few pictures and I can post more if needed. It's a beautiful peachy nude, thick crepe, bias cut, with a long, narrow column skirt (the gathered part in front drapes over and is not part of the skirt). It has a metal Talon side zipper and shoulder pads that I believe are original to the dress (because they are covered in the same nude crepe from which the dress is constructed). They are placed on the outer part of where the shoulders are on the sleeve, almost as if to elongate the shoulder line. It has an inner tape waistband with a hooks, to which a "Kornhauser Original" label is attached. (I have seen dresses from the 1940s with this label, but I am not sure when the brand launched or how long it existed (and I cannot find any information on the internet about this).) The leather on the back of the belt is crumbling -- it says "14" and (I think) "Metropolitan." Please let me know if you need any additional details. Any insight re: a narrower time frame for this dress would be appreciated!

Thank you,
Katie
 

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1940s most deffinately. It is a funny thing about the shoulder pads. They seem to have appeared right around 1940 and disapeared just before 1950. They are a great time period markers. Though not always as some designers were fashion forward and others were behind the times :-)

30s are likely to have gathered or ruffled little shoulders. The sleeve gatherings can be called ruching I think, though I think thre may be a more proper term out there?

The material is most likely a rayon crepe, very common of the 40s as well. I would say this is a mid 40s piece? but I am not the best at narrowing the dates. Others here are better and pre and post war markers in fashion.
 
Yes I would definetly say 40's as well due to the shoulder draping, skirt details and shoulder pads. I'm not seeing any 30's in this dress, the covered belt is a move towards the 50's as well where alot of dresses get matching covered belts.
 
Thank you! The previous owner told me it was from the 1930s, but it just looked like later to me -- which is why I thought maybe it could be from the late 30s (as I thought shoulder pads existed then). I appreciate your feedback! :)
 
1940s most deffinately. It is a funny thing about the shoulder pads. They seem to have appeared right around 1940 and disapeared just before 1950. They are a great time period markers. Though not always as some designers were fashion forward and others were behind the times

This is not correct information about shoulder pads. They were introduced by Schiaparelli in 1931. They became increasingly popular after Joan Crawford began creating her signature shoulder padded look in 1932 with the release of the film Letty Lynton. Shoulder pads are found in many 1930s garments and they should not be used as a major indicator that a garment dates to the 1940s.

This particular dress definitely has many 40s design elements to it.
 
Thank you! I did think shoulder pads were around in the 1930s -- and the placement of these made me think they supported the claim to that decade (they're kind of on the outside of where the natural shoulders would be, to elongate the line). I now understand, however, that this dress is most likely from the 1940s. This is exactly why I asked, though, so thank you for the feedback!
 
Yes there are shoulder pads in the 30s I am sorry I did not mean to say that there are not.

Just I feel that 40s shoulder pads were different. Usually thicker and the "staple" in 40s garments. Sorry for any confusion there. All the 30s (unless late late) I have come across have been considerably smaller in comparison. I just don't think of them as the same.

Sorry again.
 
Cosmic is right about the shoulder pads in the '30s and Jennifer, you're right in that these ones are from the '40s. The shoulder pads seen in the earlier decade are different.

Beautiful dress.
 
I also thought shoulder pads went into the very early 50s - am I right? or perhaps just in jackets, rather than dresses.

Yes --- and lest we forget how they roared back into fashion with a vengeance in the 80s. :)

The original statement was:

They seem to have appeared right around 1940 and disapeared just before 1950. They are a great time period markers. Though not always as some designers were fashion forward and others were behind the times

Aside from the fact that they were in use for nearly a decade prior to the 40s and in later eras, they're a design element that can easily be removed or lost --- so their absence doesn't mean they weren't there in the original garment (again, something that becomes easier to discern with experience.)

The vintage novice may not yet have the critical eye needed to discern the difference between the types and age of shoulder pads, so we should avoid blanket dating statements that are not correct and will confuse people in their quest for more knowledge about vintage fashion.
 
Yes you are absolutely right as to which I humbly apologized. Hey, since she asked for knowledge I hope this helped in some way :) I used to love is when I got to read why something was dated the way it was.

Yes those 80s shoulder pads, oh so lovely. I used to hate 80s stuff, but recently I have found myself drawn to quite a few pieces. I wonder what 30 more years will bring?

Ruth - I am sure there are items into the 50s with pads, (concerning dresses) but u have me wondering. Do we count home made or only manufactured clothing? :) I don't think I have ever had any thick ones in any of my 50s dresses. I have had a few with like 2 layers of material in thickness (almost like arm guards) but I dont think I have had any of the triangular or thick ones. I will have to keep an eye out now lol!
 
I've found several shoulder pads in early '50s dresses, and even in late '50s to early '60s dresses for "matrons" (oh I hope I never qualify for that term!) both commercially and home made.

Basically, shoulder pads can and were added at any time that a designer or customer desired them. Cosmic's right in that they're often removed but the signs can be seen - also a discerning eye can notice their absence in the sit of a shoulder line.
 
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