Help with dating dress and determining designer

Basilea_vintage

Registered Guest
Could someone please help with a proper name for this style of dress and an perhaps who could have designed it? I have been searching the internet for 3 days trying to find a similar style for what I believe to be a 1960 formal dress (based on colour, placement of the metal zipper and the overall look of the dress)

It was found in a vintage/estate clearing shop in Switzerland, the label says Grieder - a former silk manufacturing company and store and now an exclusive department store in Switzerland.

This is how I would describe it:

It is a vintage evening gown in heavy yellow taffeta with separate sash with tassels, two front pockets. Handmade. The amount of fabric used to make the dress is insane, and it really consists of three full shirts; one is the actual (wiggle style) dress and the other two make up the front and back of the skirt, all the skirts are lined in chiffon silk, even the ones just functioning as sheats. . The skirts are weighed down by round metal pieces sewn into the hem.
The sash is separate and can be worn in different ways or not at all.
It has a label inside saying Grieder Modéle. I found information on Christie’s that that type of label were put in dress from a designer when they were sold exclusively by a store, so I don’t think that this means that this dress was made and designed by Grieder, but designed by someone else and sold at Grieder.
I would appreciate any thoughts you might have on this dress.
Ditte
308BD362-61EE-42A2-A02A-E42BCB855171.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 4A664BE1-C513-4F44-9F74-EC1897120E49.jpeg
    4A664BE1-C513-4F44-9F74-EC1897120E49.jpeg
    36.5 KB · Views: 324
  • A830DFED-B503-4E09-AA21-79E8219FE27A.jpeg
    A830DFED-B503-4E09-AA21-79E8219FE27A.jpeg
    40 KB · Views: 316
  • B55E71EF-20A8-4B07-8AC1-041B38CF0397.jpeg
    B55E71EF-20A8-4B07-8AC1-041B38CF0397.jpeg
    34.4 KB · Views: 287
  • D38FF1B9-9D39-4646-B3DE-ABC1EBB2550D.jpeg
    D38FF1B9-9D39-4646-B3DE-ABC1EBB2550D.jpeg
    37.3 KB · Views: 314
Fabulous find! And yes, you can't go any more posh in Switzerland than Grieder (though I admit, their store in Zurich as it is now is definitely not my scene...). Could you also post a picture of the label please? Sometimes these do give clues to dating based on their style etc. too. Are there no other labels at all?
I have no idea how good Grieder is with this kind of thing - archives, company history etc. - but it might still be worth a try to write them and ask if they can give any info on the Grieder Modèle label. Or you might try the Swiss Textile Collection and write to them, someone may have some knowledge about this kind of thing. My knowledge about Grieder unfortunately is limited to what's common knowledge.
 
Fabulous find! And yes, you can't go any more posh in Switzerland than Grieder (though I admit, their store in Zurich as it is now is definitely not my scene...). Could you also post a picture of the label please? Sometimes these do give clues to dating based on their style etc. too. Are there no other labels at all?
I have no idea how good Grieder is with this kind of thing - archives, company history etc. - but it might still be worth a try to write them and ask if they can give any info on the Grieder Modèle label. Or you might try the Swiss Textile Collection and write to them, someone may have some knowledge about this kind of thing. My knowledge about Grieder unfortunately is limited to what's common knowledge.
Thank you.

Hi Midge,

I wrote them (Bongenie Grieder) via instagram to see if they can be of any help.
Grieder donated docoments to a museem in Zurich, so it might be worth contacting them, they would maybe be able to determine which era from the label and also find out which designers were sold at Grieder at that time.
I am gutted that the dress is too big for me, it would have been a keeper .
Here’s the label.
 

Attachments

  • 8C995440-D7B0-4654-887D-43038CF93861.jpeg
    8C995440-D7B0-4654-887D-43038CF93861.jpeg
    24.2 KB · Views: 282
Last edited:
Hello,

That is an outstanding gown. While I actually have no idea of who designed your gown, it reminds me very much of Balmain, particularly his work in the mid to late 1950s.

Wow.

Thank you! It is is a beautiful gown, I agree. I have been looking at ‘vintage midcentury ball gowns’, I might start googling designers next :).
 
Grieder donated docoments to a museem in Zurich, so it might be worth contacting them, they would maybe be able to determine which era from the label and also find out which designers were sold at Grieder at that time.
Interesting. Did they give to the Landesmuseum?
 
Stunning gown! Agree with a '60s date. You can see that it's beautifully made.

As you say, the dress is too big for you, which is distorting the silhouette and making it harder to see the shape but it looks to be a classic fitted bodice, formal shift dress from the time, and similar styles were made by many designers but the triple skirt is more unusual. The sash is probably meant to be worn as a stole, over your shoulders and arms. The colour is amazing.
 
I thought so too, but The sash has a hook and eye (70 cm apart) and can’t really be worn any other way. But I am no expert in 50/60s fashion so I could easily have styled it wrong.
I believe that you are right that the bodice is meant to be fitted and the skirt layers to fall straight.
 

Attachments

  • 3B56441F-F905-4409-9FEF-EAD8273982EC.jpeg
    3B56441F-F905-4409-9FEF-EAD8273982EC.jpeg
    34.8 KB · Views: 240
Ah, it's the Stadtarchiv - the city archives - that got it. It does say at the beginning that this contains ample photo material to the fashion shows from 1900-1995 (oh, I would want to see that! :wub:). I wouldn't be surprised if your dress was somewhere in those photos and I guess this would be the place to find something - at lease that would provide dating info, if nothing else.
This PDF file it seems is an index of everything they gave to the archive.
Here's the main query page from the archive about Grieder
Code:
https://amsquery.stadt-zuerich.ch/detail.aspx?ID=11818
and the achive's home page
Code:
https://www.stadt-zuerich.ch/prd/de/index/stadtarchiv/RechercheBenutzung/recherche.html
It looks like these items from the Grieder archive are accesible with the help of someone from the archive. The whole thing is in 196 boxes... that's a lot of stuff!
 
The metal zipper says ‘bSc’ onthe back.
 

Attachments

  • 7F1B9209-9811-47F1-AF33-FDC5E6527BB8.jpeg
    7F1B9209-9811-47F1-AF33-FDC5E6527BB8.jpeg
    34.1 KB · Views: 252
  • 1462E5B1-C037-4601-8068-89DDFB5F2B3D.jpeg
    1462E5B1-C037-4601-8068-89DDFB5F2B3D.jpeg
    33 KB · Views: 207
Back
Top