Help with timeline for Jacket

EndlessAlley

EndlessAlley

Alumni
Hi, This is my first time using this site, so thank you for helping me out. I have this lovely jacket. Label reads, Lee Baumann, 38th E. 8th st. New York, N.Y. In order to try to come up with a timeline, I contacted the NYC library system to see what dates Baumann had a storefront at this address. I did find dates for his store front at another location, but nothing at 38th St.

The jacket has a rough weave and the gold design appears to be printed on the fabric. There is an art deco style clasp at the neckline, funky long shoulder pads and patch style pockets along the hem. Jacket appears to have never been worn - stitching for a "small" size label is still on the outside of jacket.

Any ideas at to the era and estimate price for this piece?
Thanks again for your help.
 
Can you show the inside lining - if there is one - and how the pin closes from behind and a close-up of the fabric? The label too. Check the padding in the shoulders. Is it foam or wadding? You can feel the difference. Unpick a few stitches if you have to.
 
shoulder pad

I opened the seam of one shoulder pad and it's more of a wad, like a lot of fibers pressed to form. It was easy for me to separate these fibers. Hope this helps dating the jacket.
 
On the other Post showing this jacket the CB seam isn't pressed flat. I see from the other post the jacket is not lined but then you need to show the shoulder pads. I'd like to see the wadding as it sounds like it might be a modern fibre. The way the shoulder pads are inserted should help. Still, would like to see how the broach is attached.
 
Jacket clasp

Thank you for taking time to look at this jacket. It's a mystery to me.

Here is the back of the clasp closure you requested - I tried to show hook and loop of the metal clasp work and how it is sewn onto the jacket. This also gives you a close up of the fabric. I will send info on padding under separate email

Alice
 
shoulder pad

This is not a good picture. I had to fold the shoulder pads to show how they are attached, which is tacked by neckline and again close to shoulder seam.

Hope these 3 additional images help. I am happy to forward anything else that will help in identifying a time line for this jacket. I would love to know if the gold design is the result of some kind of silk screen process, since it doesn't go through to the back of the fabric.

Thanks again everyone for you help!!!!
Alice
 
padding for shoulder pad

The shoulder pads are lumpy. and attached by tacking on in two places, by neckline and shoulder seam. Here is a close-up of the batting. There are many thin layers of soft white material- cotton? surrounded by a kind of netting - sorry it's the best way I can describe what I'm looking at.

Alice
 
The two labels that are shown on the other Thread. Do they seem original to the jacket? The print is almost a Zandra Rhodes 1980's rip. It's the gold on what could be wool crepe that is throwing me It's very 1980-90's and those wide shoulders with the self-covered shoulder pads. That wadding looks in very good condition and is that interfacing? The broach clips look 40's but may have been added later. Those bows were very popular. There's something about this jacket that bothers me but I could just be reading too much into it! If it was made for evening c1940's I would have expected the jacket to be lined.
 
fabric

The weave and material in the jacket remind me of a fine burlap. Shoulder pads do not feel like any newer pads I've seen in garments dating back past 30 years. Jacket pads are rather stiff and misshapen. I've seen old cotton filler in old quilts and it reminds ( that layered look). The stuffing is surrounded by a net fabric that is fused onto some kind of backing - looks like thin rubbery paper. I had to work with shoulder pads to get them to lay somewhat properly. Yes labels seem to be original. The size "small" label still has tack on stitching that goes through to the back of the jacket as though it was made to be removed when sold.

Jacket has no wear to it, but looks like it's been around for awhile if that makes any sense. Odd that the back center seam was sewn folded at the neckline facing and open at the hem. I almost feel that this jacket was made in some little backroom shop.

Hope that answers your questions. I am happy to forward any pics you think might be helpful.

Thanks for your time & your thoughts on this. Alice
 
New York Historical Society

Just received an email from the New York Historical Society (yes I do like to check around on this stuff) and their research showed Lee Baumann's opened the summer of 1940
 
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