Hints for dating a red polka dot dress without label

S

shadesoftime

Registered Guest
Hello everyone!

I wanted to ask you for some help with dating a dress with no label. It seems to me that the construction should make me able to determine when it dates back to, but I am not yet good at this.

The dress has non-covered sponge shoulder-pads, which, as I read in another thread, should make it date back to the 80s rather than any earlier date.
Apart from the shoulder pads, I see several characteristics in this dress that I encounter in other garments, and would like to learn how to date:

- I notice that in some vintage dresses, there is a kind of fabric flap at the back of the neck, which is left unsewn to the garment. Is this a characteristic that can be dated.

- I find in a lot of garments self-covered belts by Astor. However, I was not able to find any information about this German brand on the forums. I know they are still producing self-covered belts and buttons, but I was wondering when self-covered belts by Astor were the most common. I have another dress with an Astor belt that seems much older to me (50s), but I am really unsure. In the pictures I attached, the dress does not have a self-covered belt, but self-covered buttons by Astor.

1-IMG_3465.JPG 3-IMG_3468.JPG 5-IMG_3268.JPG 4-IMG_3267.JPG

If you have any information on any of these points, that would help me immensely :).

Thank you very much!

Anaïs
 
Foam shoulder pads of that size can be sign it is fairly recent, but as they are not covered, you have to keep in mind they could have been added at any point up to today. I would expect a commercially manufactured dress of the 80s to have shoulder pads covered in matching fabric. However I think this dress could be home made and they didn't bother, or were added later.
It looks to me like a 1980s or 1990's dress, from the deep scoop neck, princess line shape, button front fastening and tie back. For me the differences between a 50's dress of this style and an 80's retro copy is the sleeves (these are quite loosely cut, and long), the length of the skirt (50's, minimum knee length often to the calf) and how far the buttons go down the skirt. (50's should go all the way to the bottom, I find 80s/90s often stops up to a foot short of the hem, leaving a split) Is there any sign it has been shortened?
 
I remember polka-dots being particularly popular around 1992, which was also right at the end of the padded shoulder period. I also remember those princess line dresses with the integral belts to pull in tight at the small of the back from about then.
 
Hi Anaïs and welcome to the forums.

I agree with Jonathan: your dress dates to the early '90s, around '93 I think. The shoulder pads do not look original but many people were still wearing shoulder pads at this time (although they were well on the way out of fashion) and so someone could have added them in. I had several similar dresses around this time and mine came with shoulder pads, which I was delighted to rip out by the time '94 came around. The style is influenced by '30s and (in particular for this dress) '40s styles. I still really like dresses like these as they're flattering.

The flap at the back is a facing - these were common in ladieswear until the '90s. You don't see them much any more except in good quality and they're designed to produce a neat neckline (without external stitching) and help the garment to sit well. You will find them frequently in older garments, and they come in various sizes.

Regarding self covered belts, these were common also until the '90s and are still found sometimes in better quality fashions. Many people still make belts: you take them a suitably wide strip of fabric and they can do them up for you including covering the buckle. I've done this at times, when a vintage dress has been missing its original belt and a nice deep hem supplies the fabric.
 
Thank you so much Melanie!
Not only are you amazing me with you knowledge, but you were also incredibly fast!
I also had the loose feeling that something was quite not "right" with those sleeves. In this dress, the buttons indeed do not go all the way down, and there is no sign (to me) that it has been shortened - at least the bottom seams are really neat and overlocked, similar to those on the side of the dress.
I also just noticed a detail that might matter: there is an extra button sewn inside of the dress, at the bottom. I am sorry for my ignorance on this matter, but isn't it rather something that is found in commercially manufactured dress, or is it also sometimes added to home-sewn garments - I would imagine that in this case, one might just put the extra buttons in a drawer, but I do not -yet!- sew myself.
Thank you once more for all these very helpful insights!
 
Your dress looks commercially made - with the addition of the shoulder pads that do not look original, but they might be replacements for missing originals.

I often sew extra buttons inside seams if there is one left but I'm a little particular about sewing - you're right that it's a commercial technique.
 
Jonathan, Nicole, thank you so much!

This is so helpful to me, it will greatly help me when assessing future items. I know I am only starting to learn, but I can see how long the way will be. I am in awe when I see how precise your estimations are. Old fashion books and magazines, here I come!
I am glad to now be able to identify a "facing", and will remember the tip about covered belts and wide hems! I indeed often encounter dresses with a missing belt, and find it disappointing.

Many thanks to all of you!
 
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