How to repair this suit?

[Joji Furukawa]

I absolutely love this suit I just found but it has some pretty major issues and I'm assuming it's from the 1940s? I love the row of hidden buttons. For one thing, it's missing a button on the front, one of the fabric covered ones. Where should I look to get a new one? Should I just replace both with similar ones? It's also missing a shoulder pad. Weird, I know. Is there any way to replace it? Did they make replacement shoulder pads? It wouldn't be to hard to recreat one. What's should I do? Also what would you call the ornament on the chest? It's a bow but what is specifically the word for it? It has come unattached. Would it hang with the ends down? The skirt is fine by the way. I'd really love to restore it as close as original and then find someone who could wear it as it has a ton of life left in it. Is it common for suits of this age to be made of really thin fabric? And also to be unlined? Any help would be appreciated. Also any information on this maker would be really great! Thank you!

 

[Pinkcoke]

There is a company that can make those two-part covered buttons (the link was given on an OLL thread) with fabric stolen from inside the jacket, it's the only sort you can't do yourself as it requires specialist equipment. I would get that done personally.
You can buy replacement shoulder pads but they are a lighter weight made from foam today. Your best bet is to get a secondhand pair as close to the existing shape as possible. Something about the fabric and construction of the one inside your jacket looks newer to me too so that is possibly a replacement or alteration. (people like me with strong shoulder lines don't need shoulder pads so have to remove them, then when the jacket it passed on a lot of people want the pad back to keep the desired look of the jacket on a softer shoulder line.)
I can't see the inside of your jacket but in my experience these are usually lined and the shoulder pads contained between the outer fabric and lining, so I wonder if the lining was removed (if the fabric deteriorated for example).

 

[Joji Furukawa]

Hi Melanie and thank you for the reply! I think you're right, the lining was probably taken out of the jacket as the skirt retains its lining. Also, the skirt lining is made of the same material as the shoulder pad, so it's most likely an original shoulder pad, the picture is a lot shinier than in real life. Now the question is whether I should have the jacket relined or not. Is it worth it? Is relining expensive?

 

[Joji Furukawa]

Also here are some more pictures. The shoulder pad is attached very neatly, making me think again that it is original. Definitely not an amateur job. The last photo compares the shoulder pad to the lining.

 

[pastperfect2]

You could have a shoulder pad made to match using cotton batting, if that's what the original is. The rimmed button you can't cover yourself. There used to be places that would do that for you, and may still be in larger cities like NYC and LA, maybe Chicago, too. It all depends on whether there's a big enough piece of fabric you can steal from a seam allowance or pocket facing. You may want to just replace both buttons with some vintage ones.

I have found quite a few summer or spring wight suits that were not lined. All the seams were finished neatly as were the shoulder pads. As to relining, it will be a definite cost, especially if you use the appropriate fabric. Rayon or silk crepe de chine were used. Not polyester.

I have relined a few things, doing it myself, and found that the price I got for the item didn't justify the added labor and expense.

 

[ReilVintage]

I have a lovely Lilli Ann coat that was missing a large fabric covered button. I have a dry cleaners here that is amazing. Rose who has been there forever it seems took a piece of the fabric from inside the the large hem. Then sent the fabric out to have a button made. It was replaced, and is a perfect match! If you have a good cleaners they should be able to help.

 

[Joji Furukawa]

Thank you all for the help! I will deinitely check with the cleaners and look for a shoulder pad. As for lining, I think I'll just leave it unlined and sell as is, it's not a huge deal. Again, thank you all so much!

 

[catseyevintage]

Beautiful suit.

Sometimes the old shoulder pads filled with cotton batting would shift and wad up inside their fabric covers leading to them being replaced with modern pads.

I don't think it is that important to try to find authentic 40s pads (unless you just want to) but would replace both shoulder pads with new because they need to be the same to create a nice even shoulder line.

There are many vintage buttons available on Etsy.