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lindapoirier
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This is a tough one, Linda. I am getting more of an early 60s feeling about it. Probably had a matching skirt.
There is no other label inside with fabric content?
There is no other label inside with fabric content?
The underside label does look newer too...so it is quite confusing!!!
The size 36 is not unusual for European sizing.
The size 36 is not unusual for European sizing.
Rue_de_la_Paix
VFG Member
If it is a licensed piece, then I would think it should not have the Vendome address on the label. I suspect it is post 1977 as has been mentioned, although it looks totally 1960s in the style. Can we see the shape of the sleeves, and a better view of the cut of the jacket, or perhaps someone wearing the jacket? On the hanger it looks early 1960s, and the fabric is a 1960s fabric, but the Vendome salon was not in business in the 1960s. The choice of what looks like a polyester double knit brocade is odd to me, as it is a rather low end fabric to have a couturier's name on the label. So a fairly recent revival piece might be what it is, but I would think they would have used a nicer grade of fabric. Maybe it is not poly knit and is a nicer blend fabric? Can you do a fiber test on some threads?
Circa Vintage Clothing
Alumni
This is a confusing piece, as it doesn't seem to match the label. I agree with the others that the style is '60s and the fabric reads as polyester double knit brocade (as Barbara mentioned) but I can't see a Schiaparelli atelier label on that. A burn test will help determine composition.
As others have mentioned, this would have had a matching boxy dress or skirt originally - can you please provide measurements and a photo of it being worn, so we can see the shape and proportions? Also, can you please take a clearer photo of the label a little further back so we can see the fabric around and how well it is positioned and sewn - there are a few curious things about this item and I wonder if the label is not original. Certainly the stitches are a little puckered on one side but it's hard to tell with the out of focus pic.
The jacket is unlined? You can see the stitching on the third photos slips off the trim onto the brocade, a sloppiness that I wouldn't expect in a Schiap, can you tell us what the general construction is like and if it's of a high standard? Thank you.
As others have mentioned, this would have had a matching boxy dress or skirt originally - can you please provide measurements and a photo of it being worn, so we can see the shape and proportions? Also, can you please take a clearer photo of the label a little further back so we can see the fabric around and how well it is positioned and sewn - there are a few curious things about this item and I wonder if the label is not original. Certainly the stitches are a little puckered on one side but it's hard to tell with the out of focus pic.
The jacket is unlined? You can see the stitching on the third photos slips off the trim onto the brocade, a sloppiness that I wouldn't expect in a Schiap, can you tell us what the general construction is like and if it's of a high standard? Thank you.
Rue_de_la_Paix
VFG Member
"lindapoirier, said: post: 530985 above: "If you check the Label Resource here you will see Vendome on many, many labels and as early as 1937. I thought the closest label was the 80s label because it also says Atelier."
Linda, I think you may have misunderstood, or perhaps I was not clear (sorry). Yes, I am well aware that her Vendome address appeared on the labels of her couture and pre 1954 creations. What I was saying in my initial post was that Schiaparelli's LICENSED items did not use the Vendome address (or any address usually) on the labels. A licensed item and a Haute Couture or couture item are 2 very different animals in the fashion world. The licensed items simply had her name "Schiaparelli", or "Schiaparelli, Paris", or "Schiaparelli Paris New York". There may be some other variations for other accessories, but I have never seen anything Schiaparelli from the 1960s (and I believe they would all be licensed during that time) with the Vendome address (or any address) or the word "Atelier". The label looks much more recent than the jacket.
It is also a bit odd that it is not lined, as Nicole has pointed out. And 3/4 sleeves on suit jackets have not been in fashion for over 5 decades. I am leaning to this being a marriage of the label to the jacket, but of course you could keep digging for references online to a revival line in the 1980s, etc.
I find it interesting to know that you did not know who Elsa Schiaparelli was until you just recently saw Madonna wearing repros of her clothing in a movie. So Madonna has helped to spread Elsa's fame to a new generation? Good for her! I was able to see in person, some the actual garments Madonna wore in that film and they were lovely.
Linda, I think you may have misunderstood, or perhaps I was not clear (sorry). Yes, I am well aware that her Vendome address appeared on the labels of her couture and pre 1954 creations. What I was saying in my initial post was that Schiaparelli's LICENSED items did not use the Vendome address (or any address usually) on the labels. A licensed item and a Haute Couture or couture item are 2 very different animals in the fashion world. The licensed items simply had her name "Schiaparelli", or "Schiaparelli, Paris", or "Schiaparelli Paris New York". There may be some other variations for other accessories, but I have never seen anything Schiaparelli from the 1960s (and I believe they would all be licensed during that time) with the Vendome address (or any address) or the word "Atelier". The label looks much more recent than the jacket.
It is also a bit odd that it is not lined, as Nicole has pointed out. And 3/4 sleeves on suit jackets have not been in fashion for over 5 decades. I am leaning to this being a marriage of the label to the jacket, but of course you could keep digging for references online to a revival line in the 1980s, etc.
I find it interesting to know that you did not know who Elsa Schiaparelli was until you just recently saw Madonna wearing repros of her clothing in a movie. So Madonna has helped to spread Elsa's fame to a new generation? Good for her! I was able to see in person, some the actual garments Madonna wore in that film and they were lovely.
Rue_de_la_Paix
VFG Member
Linda,
Oh... my faux paux! (OK break out in a Eddie Fisher song here)! You are correct, of course. I knew that it was not Madonna as Wally in those costumes, but that she was one of the film's producers and not the star. So thank for catching my error. I was not thinking when I wrote that.
To answer your question, no I have not seen the movie, due to the fact that it got more than its share of bad reviews. But I have read a great deal about both the costuming and the costume design (both positive and not so positive reviews on that), and was able to see some of the dresses and gowns in person as well. I feel the reason to see the film is just to see the costumes and dresses, so it is on my list to see at some point, for that reason alone.
The Schiaparelli auction that you referenced was not too long ago. I was watching that auction and was hoping to see some of her early hats offered for sale, but alas, it was not to be. I notice she did have several hats in her closet by other designers, including a few (coincidentally) licensed labels that went up for sale.
Linda, thank you for showing us your jacket. Since I had not followed the re-launching of Schiaparelli I had not seen that label.
Oh... my faux paux! (OK break out in a Eddie Fisher song here)! You are correct, of course. I knew that it was not Madonna as Wally in those costumes, but that she was one of the film's producers and not the star. So thank for catching my error. I was not thinking when I wrote that.
To answer your question, no I have not seen the movie, due to the fact that it got more than its share of bad reviews. But I have read a great deal about both the costuming and the costume design (both positive and not so positive reviews on that), and was able to see some of the dresses and gowns in person as well. I feel the reason to see the film is just to see the costumes and dresses, so it is on my list to see at some point, for that reason alone.
The Schiaparelli auction that you referenced was not too long ago. I was watching that auction and was hoping to see some of her early hats offered for sale, but alas, it was not to be. I notice she did have several hats in her closet by other designers, including a few (coincidentally) licensed labels that went up for sale.
Linda, thank you for showing us your jacket. Since I had not followed the re-launching of Schiaparelli I had not seen that label.
The items that were auctioned off recently in January at Christies came from Marisa Berenson, her granddaughter.
Code:
http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-news/diaporama/elsa-schiaparelli-s-personal-collection-up-for-auction-marisa-berenson-christie-s-salvador-dali-man-ray/16734