Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers

Jonathan

VFG Member
I think this came up before but I couldn't find it in old discussions.
Does anybody know who the phantom 10th associate of this organization was?
I have Charles Creed, Edward Molyneux, Bianca Mosca, Norman Hartnell, Digby Morton, Victor Stiebel, Angèle Delange, Peter Russell and Hardy Amies. Apparently there were 10 designers though and I can't seem to find that 10th person's name anywhere....
 
Just googling around and found this
Is this one?


Nolwen de Janze Clark

Lady Clark, the widow of the art historian Kenneth Clark, died at her home in Parfondeval, France, on Tuesday, after heart surgery. She was 65 years old.

Born Nolwen de Janze in Parfondeval, she was president of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers in the 1950's. She married Lord Clark in 1977.

Surviving are her son, Frederic Armand-Delille, of Faverolles, France; a daughter, Angelique, of West Germany; a sister, Paola, of Parfondeval, and five grandchildren

NY Times
 
THAT was fast!

They were incorporated in 1941, and were intended to be the English version of Paris Couture Syndicate. After Paris' occupation it was clear that the centre of fashion was no longer going to be coming from that city (despite Schiaparelli's assertion that even under occupation Paris will never be usurped as the leader of style -- she was a bit of a loud mouth media hog actually...)
Anyway, LaGuardia was REALLY pumping up New York as the new centre of world fashion but Stanley Marcus (of Neiman Marcus) was anti New York and was pumping up Chicago as a possible replacement. Meanwhile California's apparel industry was blossoming and becoming more important with each passing month. The London Society was formed as a way of gathering together Britain's talented designers and make a stab at taking over the head of the class. The problem is that between rationing, austerity they didn't have a shot in hell. The Society was commissioned to launch the utility clothing scheme in 1941 and they provided the basic collection for its launch in spring 1942.

They society was around for a while longer but it seems to have died in the late 1950s or early 1960s, just before England's rennaisance as a world leader in fashion in the mid 1960s with that whole carnaby street youth movement thing beginning with Mary Quant. There was a different organization that developed for the youth designers in the 60s and I suspect it was because they were into hip, chic, fun clothes, while the old standbys of the original London Designer's Society were more Queen mum and tweeds types -- generally speaking.

So, long story short, that is great to get that name but I wonder if perhaps she wasn't involved with them at the start and came in later. At least its a lead. There has to be a write-up on that London Fashion Desaigner group SOMEWHERE.
 
If that Lady Clark was not lying about her age it would have made her 17 in 1941

Came across this name
Elspeth Champcommunal
"Members of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers-Molyneux, Creed, Stiebel, Elspeth Champcommunal of Worth, Hardy Amies, Digby Morton,..."


'Put Your Best Face Forward': The Impact of the Second World War on British Dress
Peter McNeil
Journal of Design History, Vol. 6, No. 4 (1993), pp. 283-299

but can't get in to read the rest of the article

jstor link

ok I've got googly eyes from googling
plus I better get some work done:)
 
I just looked in my "Through the Looking Glass" book
(history of dress from 1860 to the present day - UK),
and they mention the Society, quote Hardy Amies, but
don't give a list of any of the members. I have one other
book to check, however have to find it first.

Sue
 
Yes... Elspeth ChampCommunal -- that would be it! She was the designer for Worth London at the time. THANK-YOU!!!!!

Have to get me a copy of that journal as well... off to Amazon!
 
yes l just found the clark listing too...in the new york times..wasnt sure if you wanted associtate designers or the board!?

new york times
 
Originally posted by Jonathan
Yes... Elspeth ChampCommunal -- that would be it! She was the designer for Worth London at the time. THANK-YOU!!!!!

Have to get me a copy of that journal as well... off to Amazon!


I'm so excited I found it:party:
 
Hi
I am researching the London Theatre in the late Victorian era. I have come across Elspeth as an employee of Ada Nettleship and she is mentioned in the book, Augustus John, by Michael Holroyd. Just her name though and no detail other than Ida Nettleship confided in her.
If I come across any other information I will post it here - and would like to know if you find anything on Ada please.
 
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