I know all Trifari pieces are supposed to be signed but this one has me puzzled. It is certainly of Trifari quality and I found the exact design by Philippe on Jewelrypatents. com with #169208 dated 1953. Would appreciate any input. Thank you
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What a puzzle, since you found the exact design on Jewelrypatents. I do recall once thinking that I had bought a Trifari bracelet, but not seeing any signature. I wrote to the seller, and she told me to look more closely with a loupe. Sure enough, with enough magnification I saw the well-worn signature.
I do believe that no Trifari is unmarked, but you already know that! I'd look one more time with heavy magnification, and then I'd probably let it go as a very close resemblance. If you are selling it, I think it would be fine to mention all of your research!
Good luck, and very best to you.
Although Trifari advertised that all of their pieces were signed, I have seen a few unsigned pieces that date to the era of your brooch. I have several pieces of unsigned KTF from the late 1930s, and some unsigned earrings from the 1940s with the distinctive earring clips Trifari used.
This is an unsigned KTF dress clip:
Most Trifari pieces from the 1950s are signed BUT they did use hang tags, and I remember reading that they sometimes provided pieces for companies - that might not have been signed. If your brooch was part of a set, it's possible that not every piece was signed - or that it had a hang tag but no signature.
I just did a search of my Trifari pieces and found these Trifari "Dogwood" earrings - that I sold years ago. The photo says unsigned.
If you plan to sell the piece - I would mention your research.