IS THIS INCREDIBLE GOLD METALLIC FIGURAL SILK BROCADE OLDER THAN THE 1920S DRESS IT'S MADE INTO?

H

helenheven

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I thought this was a 1920s dress or tunic but the incredible material looks like it might be older and made me think it might be an earlier example of the "orientalist" or "aesthetic" movement. The dress was definitely altered from it's original, larger form but I'm wondering if anyone could possibly date it from the material? It is patterned with some type of Indian or Islamic shapes around what appears to be a Mughal warrior (or possibly a Deity) riding an elephant or "war rhino", with birds that look like peacocks and crows... Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Hi Mary Jane - Thanks for your reply!
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Here are two of the photos in a larger size - if this doesn't show well, I'll try again! I wish I knew what the optimum photo size was!
 
I see why you say Italian Revival - the round swirling scrolled designs point in that direction, but the Indian/Islamic style arches and particularly the turbanned figure riding the rhino or boar... also the peacocks and crows (popular Eastern religious symbols) is making me think it might be more towards the Oriental.
 
Are you sure it's a '20s dress? It seems to have a lot more shape to me, more reminiscent of the '50s with the rolled armhole edges. '20s dresses do not have defined waists like this, now flares over the hips - they're quite straight down through the bust to hips.
 
Yes, you are right - as I mentioned above it was altered and the shape was somewhat drastically changed from having been a much larger, boxier-shaped 20's tunic/dress to more of an almost cheongsam-type dress. There's quite a lot of seam allowance inside where a vertical center back seam & vertical "princess" seams were made to take it in.
 
It appears to have been restyled in the late 50s or even early 60s. I wonder if it might not have been some sort of robe like garment in it's original state. The a-line shape reminds me a bit of the early Chinese mandarin coats or even an early robe from India.
It's quite a special fabric for sure but so difficult to say what it had started out to be and the actual age from just the photos as it is an altered piece.
 
Thank you for your replies - I understand how difficult a job it is to try to date this piece from the fabric only, as most design/style clues have been obscured. Is "Metallic Thread Brocade" an accurate description of this fabric ? If any of the expert members who might happen to see this know what this fabric is properly named, that would be of great help to me - and thanks again for your time!
 
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