Is this silk velvet Maggy Rouff cape 20s or 30s?

[Jen S]

I have this beautiful cape made by Maggy Rouff, unfortunately it's not in great condition. It's coral silk velvet, lined in silk charmeuse, with a big ruched (is this the right term?) collar. No closures. This label is not in the label resource, which states that Maggy Rouff opened her own house in 1928. The ruching reminds me of 20s stuff.... but I am not at all sure and could use some help. Also, do you think someone shortened it? The stitching looks kind of haphazard to me, but again, I've never seen a garment this age up close. Finally, would you think that something like this made by a known couturier would be of interest to collectors despite multiple condition issues? Not asking for a valuation, just trying to get a sense, since I have never before had anything older than the 40s! Thanks!

 

[Pinkcoke]

Nice piece, The colour, material and ruching is very indicative of both those decades. I think it's been shortened personally as that's a very shallow hem on the velvet and it doesn't hang smoothly from the outside, although I can see the lining is enclosed seperately which is odd. Most of these jackets I've seen are either a short shoulder cape, or a jacket closer to knee or calf length, sometimes full length. This length is neither here nor there to me. I think it's still got a place in the market, not sure if it would make it as a collectors piece due to the condition, but a nice wearable early example perhaps. I like Maggy Rouff pieces, she seems to have worked in all areas throughout her career.

 

[poppysvintageclothing]

To note is that it's an "adaptation" so would have been a licensed copy. I think it is 30s. The color and all that ruching on the collar are gorgeous!

 

[Jen S]

Thank you both! I like her, too, and have been enjoying looking at pictures of her designs.

I also had that thought about the label saying "adaptation," but then the address is hers -- so I'm confused about that.

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

Finally, would you think that something like this made by a known couturier would be of interest to collectors despite multiple condition issues?

Yes, I do. I find it worth having in a collection.

 

[Circa Vintage Clothing]

Lovely piece: I agree with '30s and that it's been shortened. I agree that it is still of interest despite the condition.

 

[Jen S]

Thanks. Do any of you have any other ideas or opinions on the label? The fact that it says "adaptation" but lists Maggy Rouff's address?

 

[Circa Vintage Clothing]

Jen, my understanding of "adaptation" was that it's not quite like modern licensed versions. The design and association is with the original designer and so the address is part of that branding.

We discussed this a while ago on the trade member side of the forums in a thread about a '30s Schiaparelli dress I had (you can see the label in the LR, it has the word "Reproduction" but is otherwise just like her other labels of the time). Here's a cut and paste of information from a Schiaparelli collector but I'm sure the information holds true for other designers of the time:

"...garments with labels which say "reproduction" or "adaptation" are garments made with the samples bought by manufacturers from the house, with the authorized permission of the house to copy it or adapt it for whichever country they are from. They often are not even made in Paris, and often not using French fabrics. Its an early concept from which licensing comes from. These clothes were not designed by her but by her team of in-house stylists and also, these clothes are not made really like haute couture. These are often simplified for sale in shops and department stores."

 

[Jen S]

Thank you, Nicole, that's super-helpful, even if a tad disappointing!

 

[Pinkcoke]

Jen I'm sure we'd still appreciate the addition to the label resource as a new label

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

The length seems fine to me for the very early 1930s. I cannot tell if it has been shortened, you can be the best judge of that. Hip length dressy jackets were worn circa 1931-1932 for evening, or sometimes to pop on over a revealing low cut or backless evening gown to give the gown more versatility as it (the gown) could then be worn for early evening or late in the day affairs. The wide Bertha style collar was also popular circa 1931-1932. The ruching or ruff effect of the velvet looks pre 1930 to me, you see more of that in the 1920s. But the rest of the jacket, such as the hip length and the shorter (3/4?) sleeve have more of that early 30s styling.

Whenever it was made, it is gorgeous and a great find.

 

[Jen S]

Thanks so much everyone! I will put the label onto the label resource... but I think I have to take some better pictures first...