Kashmir? Paisley wool shawl

The Vintage Vendeuse

The Vintage Vendeuse

VFG Member
Found at the same estate as the red underwear, is this Paisley wool shawl. I have seen them referred to as Kasmir. I know they were popular in the Victorian period but first appeared much earlier. This one feels like wool and is in absolutely top notch condition. It measures 68" x 68". Any hints on how to put a date on it?
 

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Kashmir or Cashmere refers to the wool of the Cashmere goat. Both spellings (Cashmere is an archaic spelling and Kashmir more modern) refer to the region in the North of the Indian subcontinent, from where Cashmere goats originate. I don't know if the word also refers to a garment, in the way that Pashmina does (eg shawls made of Pashmina wool, from the Pashmina goat, are also known as Pashminas - and even to the point where shawls in that style are called Pashminas, whatever they are made of)
 
Lovely. I adore those shawls and have collected and sold over 100 of them over the years. Judging solely by the photos, I do not think this is a genuine Kashmir shawl, but is a Paisley shawl done in the Kashmir style. Made in Scotland on a power loom. The size and and the black center would date it to around the 1870s - early 1880s. That is my guess, anyway.

Beautiful.
 
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Interesting. My mother loved visiting the veil of Kashmir in the 1960's. She occasionally brought home "ring scarves" (so called because they could easily be slipped through a ring.) They were extraordinarily warm and silky and didn't have too much embroidery. (Nowhere near as much as yours). As I recall it, she said the wool was collected off trees from the chins (?) of the wild goats. So I just googled Kashmir ring scarves and got a more unsavory explanation and it seems in some places producing these scarves from Shartoosh wool is illegal today. Clearly I need to study this more to understand.
 
Shahtoosh shawls are made from Tibetan Antelope, rather than goats, an animal which is extremely endangered. International trade was restricted in 1975 with the beginning of CITES, then made completely illegal in 1979.

amandainvermont said:
As I recall it, she said the wool was collected off trees from the chins (?) of the wild goats..
Click to expand...

Apparently the story about the hair being collected from bushes is a myth - I've read this in several places now.
 
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Melanie, I live in a large metropolitan area with an excellent museum but I doubt they'd permit me to bring it in for a look-see. Maybe I'll check around for a smaller museum that may give more personal attention. But, since it's likely not genuine Kashmir it may not be worth the time and effort.

Barbara, I appreciate your experienced opinion :)
Something puzzling... The fringe is knotted only at each corner block (this can be seen in one of the photos). Any idea why this would be?

Ruth and Amandainvermont, that's some fun info!

An absolutely fascinating 1949 article on the Scottish Paisley shawl:
http://www.tartansauthority.com/resources/archives/the-archives/harrison/the-paisley-shawl/

Thanks,
~Donna
 
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It's a Scottish Paisley made in the style of a Kashmiri shawl (Kashmir referring to the place where they were made). The Kashmiri shawls are pieced together, the Paisley's loomed in one piece. I would have thought 1860s-1870s on this one. Paisley is the place in Scotland where they were made, and by extension the pattern was referred to as a Paisley pattern.
 
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