Lengthening 30s/40s dressing gown

[violentpink]

I have a dressing gown from what I assume the late 1930s/1940s (based on listings with very similar gowns online) and was curious about undoing the hem that's been added. It was poorly done, but fortunately it feels like they didn't cut it so everything original may still be intact. This seems like an easy task and I'd do it in a heartbeat if it didn't have a shiny, satin finish. I'm afraid I might either not be able to get the creases out or ruin it in the process.

Do you have any suggestions or tips? Are there any specific methods I should use to de-wrinkle and de-crease it? I've tried dampening and ironing a crease on an inside seam allowance and it almost got out the wrinkle, but slightly dulled the finish and just doesn't seem/look right. I'm not expecting anything pristine, just better than this goofy hem, haha. Please let me know if you need anymore info. Thanks!

 

[Pinkcoke]

I would definitely let that down myself. As you say it wasn't well done and it shows.
I'd recommend unpicking the thread one stitch at a time. I.e. don't be tempted to pull a loop out through the top and bottom hole at the same time, as the extra pulling can make the holes bigger than they are already. Also cut the length of pulled out thread short regularly so that you aren't pulling more than necessary through each hole, for the same reason.
Once you have let it down to the original hem or desired length to make the stitch holes disappear hold a small section of the fabric either side and work the fibres around till they go (like you were rubbing out a stain).
To get rid of the creases I would soak a 100% cotton handkerchief and wring it out, then lay it over the inside of the fabric and test ironing at different temperatures, start low and increase until it takes the creases out. You will need to re-dampen the handkerchief regularly. The handkerchief creates steam and also protects the fabric from the iron shine you describe.

 

[Circa Vintage Clothing]

I would date your dressing gown to the very late '30s and agree that the hem isn't great, and would be best removed. The skirt is bias cut, and so the hem drops and becomes uneven. It looks like your hem has been taken up a couple of times, perhaps once to even it up and again to shorten the length. Here are my recommendations:

• Gently roll the hem, looking for the bottom and see if there's any dark markings or stains - if not, you're lucky and the hem can be removed without leaving a mark. If there's a mark, don't worry as you can probably get it out.
  
• As Melanie suggests: gently remove all the stitches. This fabric will mark so the less damage you do the better.
• I would take the skirt hem down as far as you can. If you're lucky, the original hem will be underneath. As this is a bias cut satin gown, I would expect it to be a rolled hem.
• Then I would gently hand wash. I operate on the principle that all lingerie items can be hand washed as I can't see our grandmothers dry cleaning personal items. Hand wash gently in mild detergent and lukewarm water, rinse well. Pay special attention to where the stitches came out, and any hem markings - be gentle, don't rub, but you can pat detergent straight into marks and rinse away. This looks like a rayon satin, quite washable, and the washing should remove the stitch marks.
  
• Dry flat on a towel in the shade.
• Warm iron.

Once it's been cleaned and restored as much as you can, then you can look at where you want to hem (if at all). You'll probably find that the hem is uneven, but that's fine, only even up if it bothers you. These uneven hems are generally evenly uneven, if that makes sense, and indicate the age of the garment.

 

[violentpink]

Thank you both so much! I've removed all the thread - whoever modified it was not messing around....whew! Look at how much more there is to the skirt now, plus there's the original hem:


Each crease has thread marks - some of it's workable and if not, it's worth it for the length and how much better the silhouette is now. For the hem in the state I bought it in, there weren't any stains on the bottom, but when I kept removing thread, I apparently found the length which was most used since there were stains (it's the second to last crease, looks worse than it is in the photos and because of the crease.)

I'm hesitant to wash it because of the metal zipper down the front (even though it seems to be in good shape, no rust) and padded detailing on the shoulders and collar. Then again, I'm always scared to wash anything pre-60s! Nicole, is there any way I could spot clean the area just to be safe? Would you recommend a similar method of patting on detergent or something else?

I tried Melanie's method of ironing with damp 100% cotton fabric in another inconspicuous area and I had much better results than my first try - and without the weird look. I'll probably give this a go on a larger area after I try removing the stains.

 

[Circa Vintage Clothing]

The problem with ironing is that you can set in stains - and I don't recommend spot treatments for pre '50s garments as there's a risk that the colour will change in that area and you end up with a bigger problem.

You're quite safe to wash this, zippers are made for laundering. Good thing you mentioned the shoulder pads: remove them before washing, and wash separately as you never know what they're stuffed with and the stuffing could stain the fabric. I've had that before, and it's best to avoid if you can.

 

[Pinkcoke]

Wow four times hemmed up is a new record for me. I suppose they had the advantage of a thinner fabric with this garment. 3 times is the max I've had.

Nicole's suggestion to wash out as much of the dirt and staining as you can before ironing is prudent.

I meant to mention, the difference in colour between the hem fabric and thread used suggest it has since gradually faded towards the bottom (at least it looks this way on the photos) is the unfolded portion still all the same colour?

 

[violentpink]

Ah, okay! I'm familiar with ironing after getting rid of any stains, but it's good to know that spot cleaning could change the color. I'm just worried the padded detailing or color, which are my favorite aspects of the dress, may be altered with washing - but I may still give fully hand washing a go.

The padded areas are sewn into the designs. Here's a better photo, along with the inside of the shoulders (the inside of the collars are sandwiched between the satin fabric but I assume it's similar to this):

(edit: the color of the inside is more uniform than it looks here, it's overall an ivory/vanilla color)

The unfolded portion seems to be the same pink color as the bottom yet gradually more of a peach towards the very bottom. It looks like the colors transition quite smoothly, but I probably won't know for sure until the creases are worked out.