Linen/Cotton/Lawn? victorian textiles help

retro ruth

retro ruth

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I'm about to list a few victorian bloomers, petticoats and nightdresses. I see these variously described as cotton, linen or lawn. I know that lawn is fine and can be made of cotton or linen, but how do tell if something is cotton or linen? Is it by texture? And can anyone give me a fuller definition/description of lawn?

Thanks!
 
I think that Victorian underwear is generally made of cotton lawn...linen is too rough for lingerie, so doubt you'll find that. Linen also creases really easily - it has more body than cotton so is better suited to dresses or suits.

Lawn is a good midweight cotton, suitable for shirts and light dresses as well as underwear. If you'd like to be able to identify it from other weights of cotton (or linen) a fabric shop could probably help you as they'll have a range and they'll all be labelled.

Nicole
 
The link says cotton became more common in the late 19th century, which I think it when mine are from, but I wish I could know for sure which are which. Is there a burn test? I would imagine they would burn similarly...
 
Again, the definitions and descriptions regarding the characteristics of linen and cotton are widely available on the internet as are reference images so do as much research as you can. Generally speaking the linen you have should be a looser weave and have a distinctive slub and not as 'soft' as the cotton. You could post detailed close-up pictures but you are in London and presumably have access to museums or auction houses where you can get evaluations.
 
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