Men's vintage clothing

blubirdboutique

blubirdboutique

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Men\'s vintage clothing

Hello all :)

I'm really not familiar at all with men's vintage clothing (styles, what is popular, what isn't). There is a woman who has a bunch of men's clothing and I really don't know where to start. She said she has shoes, suits, leisure robes, pants... from the 40s and up. Any suggestions on where I should look to start building up my knowledge base?

Thank you!
 
Oh My. That is a tall order.

You will find there is less on mens wear than women's. I do recommend things like the Dover Book series ( the 1920s As Seen in Sears Catalogs, the 30s in Sears, the 40s, etc.) because they are inexpensive and show the kind of clothing we are most likely to see in closets across America.

As to popularity - gosh, that can change daily! I see hours fo internet research in your future.

Most menswear from the 40s and 50s is desired. But you want to be sure that's what you are buying, not later pieces or reproductions by error. For example, they are loads of 80s and 90s repro rayon Hawaiian shirts on thrift store racks that you don't want to pay for them as if they were 50s.

Hollis
 
One thing I have done very well with is the old cardigans. I call them grandpa cardigans. Odd colors too...chartreuse, harvest gold, etc. I stay away from the acrylic but that is just me. Mohair, wool, even have found alpaca blends. Do have to be careful with repros here too. Labels tell a lot.
 
Find out more to the story on the circumstances of "all this men's vintage clothing." Is she a collector? Was it her husband/brother/father's? Or is she a picker and this is leftover stuff.

It is hard to teach someone how to date and what to look for in menswear from the little you have told me. I agree with Hollis on 40s suits being highly sought after and there is a big market for fedoras, homburgs, etc. Cufflinks, especially in interesting designs or high end ones. Novelty cufflinks can do well even if not expensively made. I would say concert t shirts form the 70s and 80s go like gangbusters. Some people do well with photoprinted shirts from the 70s. Shoes have to be in excellent shape. I used to pick up Harris Tweeds because they are so classic and well made but sometimes those don't bring a lot.

Union labels are a good way to help you narrow in on an era. Also, trousers from the 40s/50s often have a certain inner construction. I will have to find an old pic, but the waist band is lined and there is usually some selvege room. And there are typically inner buttons for possible suspender attachment. I used to have a customer who really sought out the old pants but lost track of him.
 
Well-made shoes, leather tops and bottoms etc, in classic styles do well for me. As does tweed. And waistcoats. Button braces (suspenders in the US). Three-piece suits are always worth picking up if they're in good condition. I find sharply-tailored slim 60s suits do just as well as their earlier counterparts, if marketed right.

Condition is what I find weeds out most menswear items - seems to be that if a bloke had a jacket/pair of shoes/waistcoat/etc he loved, well he just wore it until it fell off him. The dirt! The holes!

Not true of all guys I hasten to add...

As for where to look, I've just bought this for my DH for Christmas and it's packed with great photos.

Sarah
 
Great book Sarah! I think I want to track that one down too.

As others have said, the condition is the key - look for moth holes, especially around the crotch in suits.

For me, I like any thing pre'65, and find that late '60s to late '70s also does well. There's a lot to know and it's hard to find information - most of what I have learnt is from experience. Here's a few tips though:

Look out for two and three piece suits:
- button flies (up to mid '50s)
- pure wool fabrics (usually up to early '60s but better quality suits after that).
- tailor labels in the inside jacket pocket - if you're lucky they'll have a date of manufacture and the name of the chap they were made for.
- thick lapels are usually '30s-mid '50s if they are wool, mid '60s-mid '70s if they are poly or a wool mix. The thickest lapels are '40s or '80s.
- thin lapels are usually late '50s-early '60s or early '80s.

I sell a lot of suits, so that's what I mostly focus on but other garments sell well, eg I sell patterned shirts, waistcoats and accessories best.

N
 
This is really useful and interesting stuff. I've been wanting to get into men's wear and didn't know where to start or what to look for, or how to date!

What about 60s and 70s leather jackets? I often see them, and have done reasonably well with one that was an unusual colour (green) and tip-top condition. But there do seem to be a lot out there, especially in brown and black. Would be interested to hear what others experience is.
 
I do okay with mens leather coats but mostly it is women who buy so they have to be small. Leather coats are weird for me...sometimes they sit forever. I have gotten away from them a little - just keep 1 or 2 around.

Also for men - hats and sunglasses. Forgot those 2! Still do best with grandpa sweaters - don't know why. But like I said, they do have to be odd/different - and the more the better it seems.
 
Thank you everyone! I'll just have to try and use my judgement and pick out a few things that look like they might sell. I will look for the grandpa sweaters. :) I know there is one there is a leisure robe with pinup girls printed all over it from the 40s that someone else was supposed to buy but never did. I think that would probably sell. I think the previous buy took all the hats, bummer. :)

I'll update you if I find anything really interesting!
 
Older rayon robes seem to do well. And 50's wool jackets, fi they're the "right" brands. I've always done pretty well with men's overcoats from the 40s through the 60s. But you have to be very careful about looking for moth holes.
 
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