Menswear help

sarah-jane

VFG Member
Hello all
I seem to have acquired a large quantity of menswear, particularly suits. And I am so not an expert on menswear!
Is there an on-line label resource anywhere to help me with dating? A good book someone could recommend? Anything?!
Thanks folks.
Sarah
 
l cant tell you of any book particularly, but if you get stuck post an image and we are here to help!!!
 
Yes it's all vintage. Thanks for the links. Goodness, if I start posting photos it'll take me weeks and bore you all senseless. I've found reference to a book by Hardy Amies called The Englishman's Suit, which is referred to as "a slim little volume" and costs £89!! Or there's the Esquire Encyclopedia of 20th Century Menswear - a snip at $600. Yikes.

I think the V&A is re-issuing an old Hardy Amies book to link in with its Golden Age of Couture exhibition (http://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/future_exhibs/golden_age_couture/index.html). So it's a gruelling trip to the Big Smoke for me.

Sarah
 
FIRST...thanks to amandainvermont for posting those online links....I sell menswear 20 to 1 in my B&M store, and that's some GREAT info.

sarah-jane; I would browse Amazon and eBay for books; you might try Powells Books online....they may be the largest bookstore in the world, right here in Portland OR. They do ship worldwide and they do have EVERYTHING; the store covers city blocks.

And you might try spending some time eyeing the eBay auctions, both UK and US, in the vintage menswear sections. Lots of the auctions have detailed photos and the items are usually dated correctly. You can also search eBay for your particular labels and see what category they're listed in...new or old.
 
One of the tough things about menswear is that the changes are so small. The width of the lapel wider by 1/4", the cuff of the pants 1/8" narrower, that sort of thing.

And many, many men had there suits made to order, so they kept the details they liked for years after they were out of style.

Some helpful tips:

Button fly is generally 30s and earlier, although they were still worn into the 40s.

Belt loops start in the 20s coexisiting with suspender buttons for some years. By the later 50s, is pretty much belt loops.

Suspender buttons only would more likely be 1930s and back.

Really wide lapels are seen in the very late 30s ,to early 50s. By very late 50s, much narrower lapels and on into the 60s. 60s can be very skinny lapels. Then the wide ones come back in the 70s.

Pleated pants - generally late 1930s - 1940s - 1950s. By late 50s flat : front in to the 70s.

Cuffs - most pants have cuffs of varying widths from the 30s- 50s.

Metal zippers are a must.

Watch pocket set in the waist seam are generally 1950s and back.

Sb jackets will generally by 2-3 button for most of the post Teens period. DB in the 40s is usually a total of 6 buttons, with 2 that fasten. ( 2 over 4) DB in the 80s and 90s is usually 6 or 4 buttons, with only 1 that fastens. (4 over 2)

Back vents - 1920s - 30 - 40 - 50s - no back vent. Then a single CB vent 40s - 50 - 60s. Then the side back double vents 60s- 70s.

I hope this helps,

Hollis
 
I need to brush up on my men's stuff, I'll have to spend some time with those links!
I'd hate to pass up something good.
If non-descript, average 70's suits are ever worth something, I'll feel terrible. I've passed on a few "dead husband's" closetfulls in the last 3 years. Very Herb Tarlick stuff, though.
 
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