Need help dating a Bonwit Teller jacket

Leilani

Registered Guest
I have this little crop Jacket by Bonwit Teller and need help dating it. Any help would be great! Thx
1905 Jacket Label.JPG
1905 Jacket.JPG
 
Gorgeous jacket! The zip looks at least 1940s to me but is a little incongruous - can you tell if it is original by comparing the stitching/ thread to other seams?
Is there any shoulder padding? Can you show the back, and close ups of the decoration materials? What is the fabric made of?
 
My first thought was it could be the top of a 40s dress that someone remade into a jacket. Very pretty!
 
I'd call it blouse, rather than jacket as I don't think it's designed to be worn open - I wondered, like Jen S, if it could have been a part of an original dress but the zipper clearly stops at the waist, and a dress would go lower I think (hard to get into it if it stops at the waist). All the same, it's odd how the hem slopes to each side.

Like Melanie, I'd like to know more about the zipper: what the materials are, and a close up of the pull please. It looks '40s from here.

We don't have that label in the label resource, would be good to add it.
 
I was actually thinking someone might've cut it and then added the zipper... the hem looks like a skirt should've gone beneath it. Maybe there is evidence of a side zipper? I'd be very curious to examine the interior.
 
Also the fact that the zipper is this wild contrasting color seems out of keeping with the rest of the garment, and the hem looks like it might have been just turned up and stitched. I would expect a hem on a 40s jacket to be more substantial and not have that sort of rolled look.
 
Also the fact that the zipper is this wild contrasting color seems out of keeping with the rest of the garment,
Another explanation for this could be that the color of the fabric has faded/oxydized. But the seam does look like it was just turned up - I could see this as a full-length gown rather than just a jacket.
 
Hi,
1905 Jacket 2.JPG
1905 Jacket Detail.JPG
1905 Jacket Damage.JPG

I checked the zipper and it doesn't look out of place. Their are also zippers on each of the sleeves. They don't look out of place either.

The coloring does look off, but I guess thats just from age.
 
Are the sleeve zippers the same color as the front zipper? And can you show the inside of the jacket and the hem?
 
It's interesting that the zippers seem to have the same pulls, but are different colors to match the fabric (presuming the blue is discolored.) The hem on the bottom looks like a home sewer did it to me -- it's hard to see in the picture but isn't it a bit lumpy and uneven? It doesn't seem to match the hem on the sleeves. It looks more like it was simply folded under and then sewn, whereas on the cuffs the hem looks wider and I can't even see the fabric edge on the inside. I still would guess it used to be a dress and someone cut off the skirt and hemmed up the bodice. But hopefully others will chime in and give more informed opinions.
 
Thank you for the additional pics, the zippers look original and '40s. If you can show a photo of the interior of the hem, it will be helpful, to see if it's original.

I agree with Karin, in that it's likely that the blue rayon has changed colour slightly - these dyes can be unstable and you can see by the button type things that there was a more tealy blue in the design, at least.
 
Looking at the way the wrist zips are sewn in, with a lapped edge on each side to hide the zip fabric I suspect the bodice zip has either been moved out to increase the size, or the thread of the topstitching that held the folded edges in has failed and pulled the fabric open.
It's not apparent on those close ups but on the front photo I can see two folds or perhaps paler strips of fabric running alongside the zip that might have been folded under previously. If you lay the jacket out flat those areas may line up in the original position like the wrist zips.
 
Looking at the way the wrist zips are sewn in, with a lapped edge on each side to hide the zip fabric I suspect the bodice zip has either been moved out to increase the size, or the thread of the topstitching that held the folded edges in has failed and pulled the fabric open.
thou
I immediately thought the same thing! I have just repaired 50s dress where this had happened. The seam to overlap and hide the zip had been removed to increase the size.
 
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