Need help dating an embroidered dress

[aloapple]

I found this ivory dress with embroidery and smocking on the waist and shoulders. It has what looks like the forbidden stitch on the center of the flowers. It appears to be hand made. I don't know if it's a vintage dress or possibly a reproduction. There are no labels. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[thespectrum]

That's a beautiful dress! I have one question: does it look like it may have originally had sleeves? Can you tell?
To me, it looks like a European peasant dress, but I would have expected short puffed sleeves or long billowing sleeves, perhaps with smocking above a ruffle at the ends.

 

[aloapple]

Hi,
Yeah that makes sense, maybe they were removed and the shoulder seams restitched. I uploaded a picture of the seam.

 

[thespectrum]

Thanks for the pic, it was very helpful. I am dating your dress to the 1920s.

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

HI,

Very very pretty, I wish it fit me! I am not seeing the Forbidden Stitch, but I do see what looks like French Knot embroidery type stitches in the flowers. It looks like it is made from silk. My guess is it is mid to late 1930s, (maybe early 40s) and may have been altered. It resembles dresses made in the Phillipines, with a nod to Madiera needle arts also.

 

[thespectrum]

Dating these dresses precisely is very difficult & 30s could certainly be correct.

 

[aloapple]

After researching a little more, the stitching definitely is French knot embroidery. Thank you guys for the great information and for taking the time, I really do appreciate it.

 

[poppysvintageclothing]

It is lovely and I have never seen one before with that much smocking work. Due to the shape and the side closure, I would also date this one to the 30s. I still have a few hiding here somewhere from the 20s, they
are less fitted and simply slip over the head without closures. Yours is rather "blouson" in styling.

 

[Jonathan]

I bet it had a matching jacket originally

 

[aloapple]

The smocking is intact and the fabric is strong as well. When I found the dress (or maybe slip I'm not sure) it had some blackish stains that I removed with some shampoo. I read somewhere here in the forum that shampoo is great for removing stains from silk, and it certainly did the trick. I wasn't sure if it was really a 20's-30's dress because of the good condition the fabric is in, I've only been lucky enough to find three other dresses this old and the fabric has always been fragile. Thank you all for your time and wealth of knowledge.