okay, 1 more for you! 1959 YSL for Christian Dior!

metal_thread_vintage

Registered Guest
Hi! I know I'm swamping the board with my questions, but I'm in need of assistance. lol.

I'm having a mild heart attack because this arrived in the mail today - my very first numbered Dior. It's from the Spring/Summer 1959 Collection - a mid-weight coat, woven, gun-metal gray, has a slight sheen.

I understand that the fall 1959 collection was poorly received, but what about the Spring one? And also, am I even showing this properly? (please note that this is a rough pic.) Is this a carryover style from the 1958 trapeze collection? There certainly is a WEALTH of fabric here, enough for a trapeze shape, but it's not necessarily stiff enough to stand like that on it's own. It's just...voluminous.

Anyway, does anyone have any pictures maybe from this collection? I'm having trouble tracking any down. I'd like to see what it was supposed to look like. All I could find from the spring line was this pic. Cute dress, and I can see the similarity in the sleeve shape.

Final question, there are a few holes in the coat, where the top layer of the woven fibers is gone (probalby by the work of evil moths.) I'm very nervous about this, as I know moth damage can hide incognito and then show up when cleaned. What to do? I know I should probably have the holes (there are about 5 or so, 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) re-woven, but I've never had this done. From what I understand it is quite costly. Worth it though? Anyone have info on cost-range or good weavers?

Thank you so much in advance for the advice.

Oh, one more. If I ever part with this, would it be better to take it to an auction house?

- Vava

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Close but no cigar. Unfortunately the books I have on Dior are only comprhensive up until 1957 when he died. I did find this picture in "Dior in Vogue" "Yves St. Laurent's first collection introduced the Trapeze line. In it he took the loose-fitting look that Dior had started, to an exaggerated degree." CLARKE.

Spring 1958

diorspring1958.jpg
 
It looks something like this coat in the August Marie Claire.

<img src=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/magnolia22/Fall%20Fashions%202007/FallFashion07MC4.jpg>

I will look through my books and see what I can find.

About the moth nibbles, I would put the coat in a plastic bag and put in the freezer. Then remove and let thaw out and put back in and out again. This should get rid of any pests.
 
oooo! that's cool too! YSL's own collection from this fall uses some of these shapes too! In GRAY, no less!

actually, the vca is telling me that it's probably NOT moths (because only the top threads are gone - it's double faced wool), but CARPET BEATLES! which also has me freaking out! Putting it in the freezer won't hurt it?
 
Well since I live in the middle of fashion no where i don't know anywhere around here that does reweaving but I've heard it's about 20$ per hole for reweaving. Hopefully someone else will chime in with a more educated response on the reweaving cost.
Some time ago someone on the VCA board was giving reweaving a try on their own but I don't think this is the piece to give your first attempt on! They were taking a thread from fabric selvedge and reweaving with that.
 
I had some reweaving done at Madame Paulettes... I think they farmed it out.. It came out better then I thought it would....

-Chris
 
I just want to say thank you again to everyone who contributed info and images on this thread. And thank you for all the compliments on the coat too! I don't know if you any of you read the sister thread about this on the VCA, but I had quite a panic attack about it yesterday, running around with my vaccuum cleaner, etc. after somebody thought it was maybe attacked by carpet beatles!!! lol. It was all very silly. Now, the coat is in a sealed plastic bag, waiting to go into a cold freezer. My head is spinning! All for a coat! Now, I'm back to thinking it's moth damage and here's why. Someone suggested that perhaps the black fibers are wool, and the white fibers underneath are something else like linen (which would make sense because that woudl give the coat stiffness.) And it would also explain why only the black fibers are gone.

Thank you, vintage peddler, for that link to the reweaving place. From the looks of it, it will cost me about $300 to have the coat fully restored. I'm not sure what to do quite yet. It seems like it must be worth it on a piece like this, but....I guess we'll see. :)
 
You may find a local spot that will be less. There was a gal who charged $20 -$25 here, but she says her eyes are too old for reweaving now.

Hollis
 
AHAAAA! I found one!!!! This is crazy and so cute. This place is called "Sebastion the Tailor." I called and spoke to this little old italian lady who sounded about 100 years old and they do REAL reweaving. In fact, they are listed as having been awarded Italy's Coveted Golden Scissors for reweaving In 1954. Sounds like the real deal. She asked me to bring it in for a quote. But FIRST, I must get it clean. If I manage to freeze it and vacuum it, do I NEED to have it drycleaned? I know that sometimes drycleaning reveals more holes. I want to make sure I spot them all.
 
Just tell your cleaners the label had better be there when you get it back. And not to write on it. If they can't promise that, don't clean it.

Hollis
 
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