Old Velvet 'coat' deteriorating lining question

[Mad Catter]

Found this lovely velvet "coat" (?) but the lining is so delicate that just taking these pictures caused small pieces to break off. The outside velvet is in wonderful condition.
I was planning to reline it in some older satin to match what's already there but should I leave any of the vintage lining just in case a collector wants to see the original lining? Save some to include with it?
How much would a new lining affect the value even if it's sympathetic to the original and non-destructive?

Also can I steam the creases out?

Thanks for any information offered! No label unfortunately but look at how those sleeves are sewn! Kind of a star-shape to add to the volume. Had to use the flash to show the sewing lines on the sleeve. Might have to make a pattern out of that technique. So fabulous!

 

[Midge]

Looks like the linking is shattering - might be silk, with which this can happen. But it's a fabulous coat, and it looks to be quite old. A bit out of my comfort zone dating-wise - I think it might be 20s, but lets see what others have to say.

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

That is one fabulous coat. I would date it to the very early 1930s. I have successfully steamed out wrinkles from this type of velvet, it is likely silk pile on a rayon back, but could be all silk. Steam it from behind if you can, and take care about getting any water on it, as steamers can spit or drip. Personally I think a replaced lining would not substantially alter the value and may even increase it as it makes it more able to be worn. But of course others may differ on that. As long as it is not a couture or highly collected label, replacing the lining makes sense. And the velvet has to be able to take being sewn, it may be too fragile or delicate to be sewn. Hand swing in the new lining would be best but is very labor intensive.

Some folks would even wear these old opera coats or evening coats without any lining.

Yes, those sleeves are magnificent.

 

[pastperfect2]

Yes, re-lining will make it wearable and that is good. But you need to use silk to enhance the value. If you go polyester, it's a detriment.
I have tried re-lining two ways:
1) remove the old shattering lining, carefully make a pattern from it, then bag it up and keep it with the coat.
2) leave the old lining in place and hand sew the new lining over it, sealing it in and leaving it in position. This has the advantage that if someone some day really wants the coat in its original condition, they can just remove your handsewn lining.

 

[Mad Catter]

Thank you very much everyone!
The silk I have for the lining comes from another piece from the same age. I got lucky that the outside velvet was torn up because it was used as a stage costume. I saved the larger pieces of velvet for small things but the lining is in near-perfect condition so I can hand-sew it into the coat shown. Might need altering since it's a bit larger. First time doing that but it will be a learning experience.

I think I'll have to go with the bag-it idea because little lining pieces keep falling off. There's no label or remnants of one that I could find.

My steamer has a fabric cover to catch any spits of water so I'll give it a go before I take pictures. I did under the arms of the black one and it worked very well.

Wish me luck and thanks again!

 

[grandmascloset]

I think your coat is late 1910s. it reminds me of these from a 1918 catalog. https://witness2fashion.wordpress.com/tag/winter-coats-for-women-1918/

 

[Mad Catter]

What a fabulous page, thank you. So much info to glean from there! I've started looking though some magazines from that date and there's quite a few mentions of what people were wearing to different social events. Hopefully I'll find something to nail it down. Also have a stack of magazines coming in from that era that talk about parties and such that took place in people's homes. Fingers crossed that they love to discuss clothing in those articles as well.

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

It is difficult to date exactly sometimes, judging only by a few photos. Those sleeves looked 1920s, but the slender silhouette of the coat and the back view with the slightly nipped in lines sitting just above the natural waist, looked more very early 30s to me. But that may be the way it is on the dress form. That high ruff collar sure does look very late 'Teens to 1920s however. So yes, I could see late 'Teens to early 1920s on this coat. It would help to see the actual shape and silhouette of the coat worn on a real person who fits it fairly well. Does the coat go all the way to the ankles? Is it shaped at all or does it have straight lines from bust to hip? Is the top button decorative and can we see the button in a close up? Does the hem have dress wights?

Gorgeous thing it is!

 

[Mad Catter]

Thank you, it is a stunner! The "button" is some junk jewelery that was tacked on by the previous owner. No weights in the hem. I'll get more info tonight. Full length for sure but I'll get a better idea of that and the cut/drape when I get home.
Thanks, will post back in a few hours.

 

[Mad Catter]

Got some pics with a reluctant model (me, lol). I'm 5'3" and not wearing heels. The original owner was taller with longer arms I think. Certainly a bit thinner though this doesn't fit 'tight' but would look better on thin people, the back would hang straight down. Where you see the slight indent, that's from where it's buttoned at the front, just above the spot where my thumb is on my waist. Front and back should drape straight down, no darts anywhere in the dress body itself. Hope that helps.