Picture (?) hat from the 50's (?) and request for help re: fixing ribbon.

[laurenm]

Hi All,
I've seen these described as Picture Hats, but I've also seen many other types of hats described that way that look nothing like this. The ribbon trim has come unstuck from the straw....i've shown a picture of the back of the ribbon and am wondering what would be best to reaffix it?
Also wondering about era..the straw of my hat has a shimmery glimmer.I read this on a blog recently:

Despite their origins, and the modern perception of picture hats as frill-laden concoctions, 1930s picture hats were usually quite plain, with just a few trimmings.

A simple picture hat, NZ Evening Post, July 1935
The reign of the picture hat ended with WWII, when rationing and austerity measures saw the end of elaborate hats. A few brides wore them, perhaps as a symbol of luxury and escapism in the midsts of the war.
There were some attempts at revivals to counterbalance the wide skirts of the New Look dresses after the war, but the day of the picture hat was over (except for that odd hiccup in the 1970s where all the bridesmaids wore big hats). A few decades later the day of the hat as the prerequisite of the well (or even decently) dressed woman would also be over.

Christian Dior's 'New Look' with a picture hat, 1947

Thanks very much for any advice.
Lauren
P.S. I love the cobbled sidewalk backdrop for the fashion shoot.

 

[laurenm]

Oops, I guess the hat shots would be useful.

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

Hi,

Very pretty hat. I personally would not call it a picture hat. It looks as if it was meant to sit perched atop the head and would not frame one's face so much. Millinery terms are not always an exact science, and terms for hats can be from one's own perspective, or relative as it were. A 1920s cloche hat is very different from what was generally called a cloche in the 1950's, for example. That said, your hat (to me) is a cross between a plateau, and a narrow mushroom brim. The brim is almost what some call a tambourine brim, but it doesn't slope straight down like a tambourine, it gets a bit wider at the bottom, more like a mushroom style brim. And the trimmings and color give it a bit of a nautical sailor styling.

I would date it to the early to mid 1950's. The straw could be a synthetic straw braid, or it could be a treated or glazed natural straw braid.

I disagree with whomever it was ( was it a blog?) that said the day of the picture hat was over by WWII. It has had a revival every so many years and remained a popular style throughout the 1950s and 1960's, as well as the 1940s since hat materials were not rationed like dress fabrics. Also, that first hat they show is not a picture hat, it is a halo hat. And the second hat they show is not quite a picture hat to me either. But as I said, hat terms can be relative!

The Dior hat they show is more of a mushroom brim than it is a picture hat also. What blog is that, if you don't mind sharing?

B

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

I forgot to add...I assume you mean the inside ribbon? If the ribbon was sewn on (and I assume it was), just resew it back. You could use a water based glue and tack it back on that way, depending on how much is loose. But you have to take care and do a very neat job if you use glue. I suggest a few sewing tack stitches just to keep it in place.

If it is the outside wide decorative ribbon, definitely sew it, unless they used glue originally, then go ahead and glue it back. Use as little glue as possible, just a few dots, and don't press too hard on the ribbon or it will soak through.

 

[laurenm]

Hi Rue/Barbara,
It is the outside wide ribbon that's pulled off. That final photo is as close up as I could get of the back of the ribbon. It looks like there was some sort of papery/sizing type material that has deteriorated....what sort of glue...fabric glue?
Thanks so much,
Lauren

 

[Circa Vintage Clothing]

I agree with Barbara - and I also wish that people didn't keep reposting that photo of the Dior "Bar" suit with a '47 date - although the fashion (jacket and skirt) is from Dior's "Corolle" look in '47, the overall feel of the photo is more '50s: it's actually a recreation and the hat looks more in keeping with the early '50s than '47. From memory, the photo was taken in '54. Does anyone know the details?

I'm not criticizing you, Lauren, more that it's misleading. Here's a V&A link that confirms the mid '50s dating.

Barbara, here is the original blog post.

 

[laurenm]

I know you aren't criticizing me. As a newcomer to the trade, I am eager to learn as much as possible. The Guild is a phenomenal learning hotspot for me. it's tricky because there are many Internet sources and blogs that speak with a fair degree of authority. I recently read something on a blog that spoke very decisively about CA #s and a formula for 'back dating' items. Jonathan had written about it some time ago and was able to clear that up. I guess you have to be careful and double check your facts as much as is possible. Are there certain blogs that The Guild recommends?

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

Nicole,

I so agree about the bar suit photo being over used, and have been ticked about it being often misunderstood as to the dating. I was fortunate enough to see the Dior Bar Suit up close and in person at FIDM recently. Not the very first one, but the exact replica as made by Christian Dior (from Bohan) especially as a gift to FIDM. It looks quite different in person that in this famous photo. I was amazed at the workmanship, and how it was much more impressive when seen in real life. I got chills up my spine!

Lauren, I love having you here and asking questions, and knowing to double check everything. It took me years to discipline myself to do that, especially since it used to be much much hard to research fashion before the internet. It is a breeze now compared to the old days.

I don't blog myself, or read too many blogs (no time) but some of the trade members here have excellent blogs.

 

[laurenm]

Well, I'm so thankful for the knowledge and great willingness to help out I've found here. I've been thinking about how much harder it would be without all the online sources. Problem is how to 'vet' your sources with so much out there, and clearly misinformation as well (undoubtedly well intentioned). I"m going to look around on the site here for some blogs and do some back reading when I get a chance. P.S. why is it called a 'Bar' suit? Also, would you use fabric glue on the ribbon of my mushroom hat? The substance that is deteriorated looks like a rubbery something that dried up and broke down....did they use something like spirit gum or some such thing?
Thanks again to you both Nicole and Barbara.
Lauren

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

Lauren,

Dior called it his "Bar" suit because it was meant to be worn for an elegant cocktail hour at a bar. Hence, the bar suit! I can't tell what they used, but it was probably a water based glue. Try sewing it back if you can, as gluing ribbon is never advised, they probably did it as a time saving (and money saving) short cut by the manufacturer, but no custom milliner worth her salt would use glue on ribbons. But, as it was already glued, you can use a few dots of Elmer's glue or similar to hold it in place and that should,work fine. I have not used much fabric glue but that should work also, just don't press down hard on the ribbon after gluing it. Use a tiny bit of glue and a soft touch.

 

[laurenm]

Thanks Barbara,
I'll glue carefully and hope my grandmother ( who worked in a Millinery shop in the early 1900s) doesn't roll too much in her grave. I unfortunately never met her, but we have a fantastic sepia photo of her in a feathered wonder of a hat.
Thanks again, Lauren