Question for vintage sellers
- Thread starter Danielle
- Start date
morning-glorious
VFG Board Member
Hi Danielle,
I don't use dry cleaners anymore because I've had too many bad experiences. I've tried different ones and more often than not the items come back with the same stains and maybe in worse shape (missing buttons, misshapen hems, beads lost, etc.) Plus they are so expensive.
If an item is washable, I wash it. If it's wool, anything with a lining, cashmere, etc., and I think it just needs freshening, I use Drycleaner's Secret which is like Dryel and you can get it in drugstores and "dry clean" at home in your clothes dryer. This works pretty well. I also have a regimen of spot cleaners I use on non-washables. The only exception is garments that are very fragile, Edwardian, Victorian, etc., and they are basically offered "as found."
Jen
I don't use dry cleaners anymore because I've had too many bad experiences. I've tried different ones and more often than not the items come back with the same stains and maybe in worse shape (missing buttons, misshapen hems, beads lost, etc.) Plus they are so expensive.
If an item is washable, I wash it. If it's wool, anything with a lining, cashmere, etc., and I think it just needs freshening, I use Drycleaner's Secret which is like Dryel and you can get it in drugstores and "dry clean" at home in your clothes dryer. This works pretty well. I also have a regimen of spot cleaners I use on non-washables. The only exception is garments that are very fragile, Edwardian, Victorian, etc., and they are basically offered "as found."
Jen
Vintage_Visage
Alumni
I agree with Jen,
However, I have found a great drycleaner that has been around since it was built in the 1940s using the original machines and petroleom formula. So it may not get the cleanest, but I always get my pieces back in tact. I LOVE them. So nicer items I do have cleaned before selling.
I calculate it this way, I count my time at $10.00 and hour and I spend 2 hours per item with listing, pictures, cleaning etc.. (in reality some more others way less).
So then I calculate cost of goods minus related fees and services. Between necessary subscriptions and fees I average another $20 per item. So off the bat I am at $40.00 and my average cost is $1-$20 an item. So worst case $60 investment and dry cleaning is another $10. If I can clear an extra $20 to $50 because of the dry cleaning then I do it!
Does that make sense?
Alot of muslin and voile (sheer cotton fabrics) do EXCELLENT with home laundering. Don't let the design scare you but the fabric is the determining factor. I hand wash and spot clean most, but I do a lot of dry cleaning because in the end $10 an hour of my time is worth the trip to the dry cleaner to save me 3 hours in cleaning and prep, including steaming.
I hope that jarbled thought process makes sense.
However, I have found a great drycleaner that has been around since it was built in the 1940s using the original machines and petroleom formula. So it may not get the cleanest, but I always get my pieces back in tact. I LOVE them. So nicer items I do have cleaned before selling.
I calculate it this way, I count my time at $10.00 and hour and I spend 2 hours per item with listing, pictures, cleaning etc.. (in reality some more others way less).
So then I calculate cost of goods minus related fees and services. Between necessary subscriptions and fees I average another $20 per item. So off the bat I am at $40.00 and my average cost is $1-$20 an item. So worst case $60 investment and dry cleaning is another $10. If I can clear an extra $20 to $50 because of the dry cleaning then I do it!
Does that make sense?
Alot of muslin and voile (sheer cotton fabrics) do EXCELLENT with home laundering. Don't let the design scare you but the fabric is the determining factor. I hand wash and spot clean most, but I do a lot of dry cleaning because in the end $10 an hour of my time is worth the trip to the dry cleaner to save me 3 hours in cleaning and prep, including steaming.
I hope that jarbled thought process makes sense.
BijouVintage
Alumni
I home launder what I can and leave anything else up to the buyer, I just try not to bring home anything that needs serious attention.
vintagedevotion
VFG Board Member
I home launder washables, steam some items with a water/vinegar solution and eco-dry clean others. I have found that the eco-dry cleaners are a little gentler on the garments (and the environment) so I've been trying to use them exclusively. They are expensive but since I bring in so many garments, they will sometimes work with me on cost.
Coutureallure
Alumni
I dry clean everything except some heavily beaded items, furs and anything older than the 1940s. I hand launder any cottons that I feel can handle it without shrinkage or fading. I am lucky to have a fabulous dry cleaner who does a wonderful job with my vintage. I look at it this way - there are some items that just won't survive being cleaned and I want it to be my problem, not my customer's problem.
I sent a lovely 1950s taffeta dress to the cleaners last week. 60 years of hanging in a closet had effectively hidden the underarm rings. The fabric came back a brighter blue than when I sent it, but those underarm rings are now visible as can be. I'd rather lose the dress than lose the customer.
Here's a blog post I did about this last year: The Issue of Dry Cleaning
We all have different approaches to this and that's OK. You should do what works for you, but it's wise inform your customers of your policy up front.
I sent a lovely 1950s taffeta dress to the cleaners last week. 60 years of hanging in a closet had effectively hidden the underarm rings. The fabric came back a brighter blue than when I sent it, but those underarm rings are now visible as can be. I'd rather lose the dress than lose the customer.
Here's a blog post I did about this last year: The Issue of Dry Cleaning
We all have different approaches to this and that's OK. You should do what works for you, but it's wise inform your customers of your policy up front.