Question regarding a vintage suit

N

nsweezie

Registered Guest
Hello!
I recently bought a vintage suit (probably mid 1950's) by a favorite designer of the era.
The suit jacket is really wonderful- tailored well, with lots of high end details like bound buttonholes, weighted chain at the hem and really heavy, quality buttons. There is a label in the jacket which looks original.
The problem is the skirt- it is average quality and in no way matches the very high quality of the jacket. The skirt is not terrible, just nothing special- for example it isn't lined.
I am pretty sure the jacket and skirt belong together- the material is rather unusual and it is a perfect match, and I doubt the seller is trying to pull a fast one by switching labels, as I only paid $9 for the suit and the designer of the suit isn't someone like Chanel or Dior.
Can anyone think of an explanation as to why there is such a difference in quality between the suit jacket and skirt? I'm scratching my head over it!
 
Could it be that the skirt was altered as the wearer changed size (or handed it to a second wearer) and the lining was removed? Sometimes there is more seam allowance in a skirt than a lining - how does the size of the skirt match with the jacket? If it's been altered it would show signs.

Have a look at the inside of the waistband - does the stitching look original? If there was a lining at some point (which I agree, there should be) there should be some sign of it or sign of alteration.

A skirt lining could also be removed if damaged or stained.

Nicole
 
I agree that it's possible, or likely, the skirt was altered and/or the lining removed. But I am wondering, is it the construction itself that is not up to the standards of the jacket? Or the styling? When you get right down to it, if the skirt is simply a straight skirt with walking vent or kick pleat at the back, some waistline darting, and a zip down the side or back, there's not a lot of detailing you can get on a skirt. Barring some stylish pockets or front-panel pleating, or some other style element. On the other hand, if the construction (stitching, trimming of the seams, etc.) is of inferior quality compared to the skirt, then I would guess the skirt was altered in a major way. Some skirts were only lined through the hip and seat area--you might see signs of it up around those seams, rather than lower on the skirt.

Your description of the jacket is intriguing! Do you have a photo?
 
By the mid-50s maybe skirts were moving towards linings more, but my impression from some of the 1930s-1950s suits I have - and the 'fanciest' designer in my collection is Lilli Ann, so nice but not couture - is that skirts were often unlined. After all, it was assumed you would wear a slip :)

Jen
 
I currently have an early 1960s three-piece suit, with a beautiful jacket, fully lined and with fancy buttons, a spangley blouse with lovely details... and the plainest, dullest, unlined skirt you ever saw. But it goes with the other two pieces for sure. (mine is by Myron Louis)

Jen's right. A slip AND lining might get a bit staticky!

Elizabeth
 
I think that Nicole might be on to something. The skirt is plain, but I have a number of other skirts by the same designer, and they are all fully lined and hemmed wonderfully.
This skirt is hemmed well, but to what I would call a 'talented amateur' level. And the waistline shows some signs of being messed around with!
The designer, should anyone be curious, is Ben Zuckerman.
And I just wanted to say to Nicole that I just got your book in the mail last week and I really loved it. I've read lots of books on vintage and I can say that your book had lots of new information and was a great read.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top