Sewers: is that shirring with elastic on both sides by a professional machine?

Pinkcoke

Pinkcoke

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So, I am working down my repair pile, and have just learn to shir, this pile being one of the largest!...not totally satisfied with the results, but I'm hoping it will improve with practice and some tips and tricks learnt along the way, like the first two rows never have enough tension in them :( and that doubled fabric (like a hem) doesn't gather as much as single, so you get a funny wave of looser shirring on the hem...gah. At least I practiced on the piece I am having to alter the fit on for myself anyway.
Some, well most, of the garments that have shirring on them with shot elastic, have used shirring elastic on both sides, so one is looped, and the other is flat (it looks a little like overlocking, except in a straight line, instead of side by side loops). The online tutorials only give instructions on single shirring, using elastic as the underthread, hand winding onto the machine bobbin, with normal thread on top. Is this double shirring thread technique only possible on an industrial machine or is it possible at home do you know?
 
Melanie, I'm not sure what you mean - I've only seen shirring on one side, with the stitches on the other side. Perhaps it's when the shirring elastic has been used on both needle and bobbin so the elastic is on both sides? Just one side is plenty, so I'd recommend using regular cotton for the bobbin.

I'd recommend that you don't shir (is that even a word?) doubled over fabric, if you're doing the hem it's best to shir the fabric first and then hem. If it's already hemmed, I would unhem, shir, then rehem.
 
I didn't have a choice with this garment - it's a sun top that has a shirred back panel, the top and bottom having a thick hem. I just copied the original shirring lines, but I can't seem to make it strong enough. I have already had to re-wind the bobbin elastic to increase the elastic tension, as winding it without tension gave no result (despite the tutorial's all advising this). It's too large so I will be inserting the shirred panel further into the flat cotton sides.
Here is the top I shirred with new elastic and a dress that shows the shirring with elastic both sides (flat on top, looped underneath):
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To my knowledge smocking is done with thread to create natural stretch in a garment, this is using elastic thread to give the stretch. The pale blue example I gave is flat at the moment because the elastic is no longer stretchy.
Metro Retro Vintage said:
Melanie, I really like the tribal print of the first piece.
Click to expand...

Me too! It's a waistcoat style sun top with detachable straps and a matching skirt with accent pockets. I love that the skirt has bigger buttons to match the scale of the garment. I will post a photo when it's finished. If it isn't too cold here by then! (we've suddenly found autumn here in England..) It's very Safari.
 
Hi, Melanie! I think that type of smocking is done on a special machine (I found examples of machines on Google by searching double chain stitch smocking. The machines are called Multi Needle Double Chainstitch Machines) Not sure if this is what you're looking for, but I found a blog post about shirring/smocking on your home machine using a chain stitch. Hope I'm not totally off the mark. Good luck, and cute top!
https://sewnsquareone.wordpress.com...ntinues-with-a-tutorial-from-lolita-patterns/
 
thanks Robin - close but no cigar! the blog is using a serging machine to imitate chain stitch with two threads, looking at mine now I think it is one elastic thread, that loops through the back, so all one thread?!
 
I can't help at all, a straight line is my limit, and maybe that X stitch if I really have too.

I have to say though, I don't know what I am more impressed with..... the really nice job you did
with the shirring you fixed, or the clarity of that last picture, it looks like I could pluck those threads
right off my screen.

Love the colors in the tribal print.
 
Well thank you Lynn :oops: I'm pretty sure it was easier following the old stitch holes than making new shirring lines on fresh fabric (usually you have to mark them out first) but you really can't see how wonky they are once gathered - a blessing in disguise!

I have worked out that the method I wanted to recreate does indeed require a serger machine, and something called a looper. It is a machine made chain stitch that only uses one thread, like you would chainstitching it by hand. It makes me wonder why shirring elastic is sold in colours, when the vast majority of shirring will not show the elastic on the front....
 
I used to do this with my stretched out items and used the same technique as you. That is the technique I learned in sewing class for this type of treatment. Now I don't bother unless the piece is AWESOME. Too much frustration on my part.

I think your top turned out really nice though.
 
Lol Amber yes I soon realised it is 99% undoing and 1% sewing, and if you rush the sewing, you can end up with a whole lot more undoing...
I do take into account any shot shirring on a garment regarding what I will pay for it now, and to an extent, if I can't handle it I actually assume the elastic in the shirring will be shot, as at best it will be weak and useless and worst the first time it stretches you get covered in rubber dust.
 
For those interested. the top and skirt tribal set (trying to tidy up the new sewing room!) No brand label (only size/care) but thought to be 80's Betty Barclay.
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