Silk ribbon jacket w fur collar

Trish

Trish

Registered Guest
Hi all,
Thanks in advance for your expertise. I found this little jacket at an auction, but I don't know if it is a bed jacket or a fancy going-out jacket. The fur is very short on the collar. The collar is lined in velvet. There is one hooked clasp at the throat. I'm pretty sure the lining is silk and the ribbon on the outside is silk. There are no tags.
What is the term for the ribbon treatment?
Would you have this cleaned by a dry cleaner or try and do it yourself?
Best guess on the fur?
Thanks so much,
Trish

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I think it's an evening jacket. Probably had a matching dress at one time. Very pretty.

I would call the ribbon treatment "ribbon work". The fur collar looks mink.

I'm sure others will weigh in, but whichever cleaning method you try, you will have to first remove the fur collar.
 
Hi,

I have handled many of these over the years, and I agree it is an evening jacket and had a matching dress. I have seen them called soutache lace jackets, tape lace, etc. The ribbons are usually made of rayon. Looks very early 1960s to me. From the photos it looks to be ermine or mink.
 
Soutache is the word, yes. I now know to remove the collar before cleaning (thank you!). I've never taken a delicate item like this to the cleaners before. I usually try to clean it at home. What would you recommend? Cleaners or home? I paid less than a dollar for the jacket, so if I wreck it I won't be out much, but I'm not seeing many of these out there, so it might be worthwhile to use a professional. Any thoughts?
 
Barbara is correct that many call these "soutache" lace jackets and if you are going to resell putting that term somewhere is beneficial to get it noticed, but technically the ribbon and work is not soutache. I will try and dig around in older posts to see if I can get a definition of soutache for you. (Or someone may chime in, in the meantime).
 
Thanks, Deborah. It could be why I wasn't finding many out there. Please let me know when you have a more accurate word.
 
Soutache trim work is definitely that scroll like curvy trim work done on clothing with cord or narrow ribbon. I don't see why the term couldn't be used in a description but I will defer to Deborah on the exact term for this type of fabric. Ribbon work is also a good term and boy, love that evening jacket! Even though you paid so little, this is a gorgeous piece and you should take extreme care to find a cleaner who can work with it. You scored! It would be a shame to lose it to a cleaner unfamiliar with vintage fabrics, but that's just my opinion.

Julia
 
Soutache trim work is definitely that scroll like curvy trim work done on clothing with cord or narrow ribbon.
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Nicely said, Julia! Here are a few examples from two of our members:
http://www.dorotheasclosetvintage.com/40sBEADEDSwingCOATsct.html

http://www.etsy.com/listing/8377791...louse&ga_search_type=user_shop_ttt_id_5428227

Here is a sample part of a dress I have with similar treatment to yours and the consensus was that it is ribbon lace or ribbon work:

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Same for this dress I sold a while back:
http://www.etsy.com/transaction/20883651

Technically,
soutache is a "trim"
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but many do think the type of work on your jacket is soutache and that's why it's good to mention it as a key word to get it noticed.

Word use, definitions etc., change (bastardize). In my neck of the woods, if you ask someone to pick you up some shallots, you will always get scallions!
 
Passementerie means "trim" also. Here's the Wikipedia definition:
Passementerie or passementarie is the art of making elaborate trimmings or edgings (in French, passements) of applied braid, gold or silver cord, embroidery, colored silk, or beads for clothing or furnishings.[1]

I have been trying to think of the term for the ribbon work on this jacket but can't come up with anything. I would call it ribbon scroll work - although soutache might get some lookers.
 
I've had two sets with a jacket like this. Both had a matching pencil skirt. I don't advise hand washing unless you remove the lining as I tried with one of my sets and the lining shrunk causing the skirt and jacket to bunch up. I tried it because it had staining very similar to yours and thought a soak would be the best bet, but no. It went to the trash instead. I only paid a few bucks for it so I had a 'what do I have to lose' attitude about it.

I am also agreeing that it is not soutache, but more of a ribbon work or woven ribbon. Soutache is an added decor sewn onto a base fabric in a specific design. It is usually a very narrow, flat heavily woven type ribbon trim.
 
Thanks Amber for your DIY insight. Thanks to everyone for helping me make decisions about this jacket.
Trish
 
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