Strange gold metallic gown

[sofia C]

Please help! I will be grateful for any thoughts or insights.
Most likely it was made in France. No label.
This piece is rather heavy, black silk with metallic (brocade?).
Back panel has four straps with hooks. The loops are located on the opposite side of the panel.
It looks like the straps are supposed to go around the body to keep the back panel in place.
Front panel is extremely long.
Inside the dress is fully trimmed with gold metallic ribbon. Lined with extra-sheer chiffon.
Chiffon has tears at the shoulders but the shell is in perfect shape.
I have newer seen anything like this piece before.

 

[Jonathan]

It is odd... would love to handle it to figure out what is happening...

 

[Metro Retro Vintage]

It reminds me of those threatre Fortunys. Beautiful.

 

[cmpollack]

Yes, how incredibly beautiful! It looks like an Erte illustration come to life...

I look forward to learning more about it.

 

[sewingmachinegirl]

That is stunning, I hope we can learn more about this gown!

 

[amandainvermont]

Beautiful mystery. Is is essentially a long rectangle when laid flat? My first thought aligned with Laura - something for stage?

 

[Hattysattic]

Just beautiful! I can't stop looking at it Silly question I'm sure but I can't see the neckline at the back - could it be worn the other way around so the tabard is trained to the rear? I'm sure you've tried it every which way!

 

[Pinkcoke]

I was wondering the same. It may be helpful to see the garment laid flat, or perhaps a simple line diagram of the layout and position of straps/loops if you wouldn't mind.

 

[sofia C]

Silly question I'm sure but I can't see the neckline at the back - could it be worn the other way around so the tabard is trained to the rear? I'm sure you've tried it every which way!

I did not try another side, did not think about this possibility.. The neckline is identical on both sides.
I am going to take mote photos tomorrow.
Today I am going to escort my mother to her cardiologist and will be away from home till late night.

Thank you so much for your help!

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

Gorgeous! My first thought was something for the stage, or a fabulous garment for a very wealthy lady for a special occasion. So sumptuous, so grand. I see an Oriental influence in this as well as 'Teens era to early 1920s. And I could see this as an Erte' design.

Is the belt attached to the gown? Are there loops for the belt? Is the belt in the right position for the gown/robe? In other words, have you placed it where you think it looks best, or does it have a pre determined place to be?

 

[poppysvintageclothing]

It's quite the amazing piece. I too see the orientalist influence in this. I wonder if it may be a Poiret or perhaps a Fortuny? The other designer the fabric reminds me of is Maria Gallenga.

I found this piece online which is a Fortuny and has side tie closures as well.

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

I agree, Fortuny, Gallenga and Poiret all come to mind. A wonderful tabard style. Does your garment have defined sleeves or is it two pieces of fabric that are not joined at all on the sides? That is, it has no actual sleeves? Is the belt original to the garment?

 

[Jasmin Key]

Woah, that is outstanding! I can't wait to see more photos.

 

[sofia C]

I do not know how to thank you for your attention and help.
If anyone would like to see this gown in person, please let me know. I live in New York, Manhattan.
I wish this gown could talk.

Now a bit more information.
There is no shoulder seam. No defined sleeves.
It is extremely long rectangular piece, tabard style, 40" wide.
One panel (back?) with four straps - 55" long
Another - 70" long.
The beaded sash is not original. No belt loops.
The straps are slightly stretchy, longer at the bottom.
The rectangular neck opening is lined with black fabric.
Last photo - the longer panel is narrower at the bottom.
I am not sure i draped my model form correctly.

 

[Jonathan]

There is something about the stiffness of the fabric and that gold braid that makes me wonder if it isn't theatrical - it can still be old, but maybe something like 1920s doing Medieval... just a thought.

 

[sofia C]

Good morning, Jonathan! Thank you for your answer.

You are right, this piece is rather "structured", I mean it does not have much movement.
The basic black silk is very soft with Damask weave.
The gold brocade is made with rather thick metallic thread that adds weight.
The gold braid is hidden inside, it actually gives the gown its structure.
The back straps restrict fabric movement too.