The recent history of Cosmetics

amandainvermont

VFG Member
Did any of you see “The Powder and the Glory” broadcast on PBS? It’s was the story of Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubenstein, who both immigrated to the US (Arden from Canada and Rubenstein from Poland) and created what is now the huge beauty industry.

I hadn’t given much thought to the fact that cosmetics were, back then, only used by “painted ladies” - either prostitutes or in the movie industry, and it is these two women who brought cosmetics to the rest of us.

I remember my mother using a brush (like a short toothbrush) to apply mascara and using lipstick as rouge. It was Helena Rubenstein who invented the concept of a mascara wand. And Arden opened the first resort health spa (Maine Chance) in the US. I remember the lipstick “Montezuma red” which was introduced by Arden for women WWII soldiers to match the red on their uniforms. But of course I associate her with pink.

These two women were extremely competitive and no doubt occasionally turned up at some of the same events, yet they never met or spoke.

I was just reading a review of the book about them on which the PBS documentary is based - “War Paint” by Lindy Woodhead.

In 1908, when she was 38, Rubenstein married Edward Titus, an impoverished bookseller. On their honeymoon he "carried on" with another woman. Rubenstein bought herself pearls as compensation and called them "quarrel jewels". She later married a “prince” many years her junior.

Arden too married an “ersatz prince” who on their honeymoon had sex with his boyfriend.

So, they both made oodles of money, and made wise business choices, but were not as good with relationships.

bh1944-med.jpg
eliz_arden_ad_5.jpg
 
oh yes! I only got to see the last 20 minutes or so, so fascinating. I collect old perfume bottles so I was aware of some of the history. Last week I found a pretty NOS Elizabeth Arden CHIN STRAP in its pretty pink box!

chin.jpg
 
I did see this and actually videotaped it when it was repeated last week - I loved every minute of it! Great documentary for the clothes, make-up styles, history - and packaging! - the 20s and 30s art deco compacts and whatnot slayed me!

Also it was personally interesting as they had a little segment on Estee Lauder too, and my grandfather worked closely for her for several decades.

I should check out the War Paint book! Thanks, Amanda!

Jen
 
I read Behind the Red Door, about Elizabeth Arden -- another not very nice person who used people and scratched her way to the top... I thought Rubenstein was Australian -- she may have been born in Poland but I thought her early life and career was spent in Australia.
 
I loved 'MADAME', a dishy little kiss and tell memoir by her last companion...she was 80-something, he was gay...

LOVED the picture of her in her lighted lucite bed.
 
Its interesting how some of the greatest rivalries in fashion history involved two people who never met -- Hattie Carnegie and Sophie Gimbel (Sophie of Saks), apparently loathed each other and never met. I am not sure if Schiaparelli and Chanel ever met, but they loathed each other as well...
 
Back
Top