to clean or not to clean...silk with colored embroidery.

Dirty Hems

Dirty Hems

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Oh my goodness I need advice. I have never been so nervous about whether to clean or not to clean a garment as I am about this!

I found this gorgeous silk pajama set this morning, all silk with incredible embroidered ribbon edging and belt. The embroidery includes gold-tone metal thread. There are also little whirling logs (swastikas) scattered throughout some of the flowers, which makes me think this is pre-WWII 1930s.

The silk is yellowed and there are scattered stains throughout. Otherwise it is structurally in wonderful shape and no shattering. The embroidery is almost pristine, with only one small part that needs some repair. I did wet a q-tip and test the black and dark blue threads and sure enough, there was some color transfer. This is what is stopping me from going forward. Theoretically I could remove the embroidered bits, clean the main part of the garment and then re-attach...but the yellowed silk of the ribbon would then be even more noticeable.

Does anyone have experience cleaning embroidered silk? Please tell me not to if you think I shouldn't! Any and all advice welcome.
 
Agree with Mary Jane: I would only send this to an excellent dry cleaner that I had faith in. The yellowing and marks (probably foxing) on the silk are unlikely to come out so if you don't have someone you trust, I would just freshen with fresh air and get as much dust out as possible.
 
I agree - only a high quality cleaner that you have already had a good experience with on difficult garments like this one. The silk could shatter, the dye could run, you could lose embroidery. Better to leave it as it is and air it out.

Hollis
 
thank you all! the more time that passed the more i just couldn't bring myself to risk damaging, i am so glad to have you vintage gurus back that feeling up. i will try to gently get as much dust & grim off manually as possible and give it some fresh air. it is still so gorgeous (i am in total awe of the embroidery, it's incredible) and would make a gorgeous display piece. the top is still totally wearable (i am amazed at how strong the silk still is!) for someone who doesn't mind the yellowing.

thanks again!!
 
DO NOT WASH - you will ruin it. Silk satin is unwashable. You won't be able to remove the yellowing, in fact dry cleaning might even accelerate the yellowing process. Vacuuming is a good place to start, and dry cleaning is possible, but like what everyone suggested, make sure you have a dry cleaner who knows what they are doing. This is Chinese workmanship and the swastika has nothing to do with the ancient Buddhist symbol, so although you pj's may be prewar, the symbol has no relevance to National Socialism and may date postwar.
 
Jonathan - thank you so much! I had a feeling the embroidery could be Chinese and knew that swastikas are used in Chinese art, but the shape and cut of the pajamas remind me very much of 1930s "beach pajamas" I have seen. The pants are wide-legged and the jacket feels like a very western silhouette. Would that silhouette be manufactured in China as well? Or would it be a western set influenced by Chinese clothing? I am totally in the dark with this one! Any opinions appreciated :)
 
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