Topper coat early 50s? fabric? thanks for looking

EndlessAlley

EndlessAlley

Alumni
Good morning everyone,

Hope you can help me get to know this little red topper coat a bit better.. :wub:

Coat has wide sleeves with big turned up cuffs, lovely red, satin-like corded fabric & one rhinestone button at the neckline. Pockets are in seam near front placket of coat. No tags.

1.Could it be early 50s or possibly late 40s?
2.Is there a name for this type of corded satin like fabric?
3. Was this coat for evening wear?
4.Finally the seams radiate from the back neckline, is this called a sunburst design?

Thank you once again for sharing your knowledge with me.

Best to all,
Alice
 
I would call that a swing coat, and date as very early '50s. The button doesn't quite fit though, as pretty as it is, I wonder if it's a replacement for the original?

I'm not seeing satin though, perhaps it's the photo but I can't see shine. What I do see is a thickly ribbed wool or rayon. Can you tell what material it is? If it's silk, it might be for evening but I'm getting more of a day feel. Great colour, lovely style.

Nicole
 
Thanks Nicole,

The first picture is the best for showing the fabric. Fabric has has a luster or soft sheen, but hard finish to it, if that makes any sense. I really don't think it's a wool. You might be right about the button. I can see red threads under the lighter colored threads used to secure this button.

Do you call it a swing coat rather than a topper because it's longer covering the hips?

Alice
 
Swing coats are fitted through the shoulders, upper arms and chest while the body of the coat gradually moves outward forming a wide cape-like shape. The extra volume at the bottom is what makes the coat "swing."

It is a lovely coat.

Caryn
 
Looks like an ottoman rib to me... I have a full-length mid-50s Hattie Carnegie coat in a cherry silk ottoman rib that I've assumed was meant to be for "occasion" if not evening wear. (It closes with 3 domed self-fabric buttons).

Not sure whether yours was specifically for evening--that silhouette seems to have shown up on many daytime coats/jackets, and I can't tell from the photos what the fabric is. Also, if the button on it is a replacement, as Nicole suggests, that's not a clear indicator that it's a "dressy" coat.

Can you ID the fabric through burn testing? That might help determine what type of use the coat was meant for...
 
I would guess it's rayon, and I would call it a topper or a swing "jacket," as it's not long enough to be a coat.... And I agree with Carrie that it looks like an ottoman rib weave. And that it's probably early 50s, although I could see it being very late 40s, too. but the back yoke and the sleeve style do look more 50s. I have a similarly styled topper that I think is 40s because it has a bit more geometric look and fairly large shoulder pads. Does yours have shoulder pads?

I love these toppers! They are so versatile. I have at least one in my own personal wardrobe and may co-opt the one I have in my Etsy shop for my own!
 
I did the burn test and there were no ashes, the fabric just melted to a bead.

I was able to see between the lining & fabric and there are thin shoulder pads.

I read in a 1950 archive news ad, "This season toppers are worn loose or belted rather than flared." That's why I was wondering if this topper might be before 1950, because it looks so "flared" to me.

I know my photos are not very detailed but the back (and front to some extent) has a seam pattern that radiates from the neckline. Was wondering if that's called a "sunburst" pattern or cut.

Nicole, I thought toppers came about because of cars, they were so much easier to wear in a car than a longer coat.
 
I am not sure about the sunburst pattern but from the photos it looks like your jacket/coat has raglan sleeves. I think the seams from the sleeves are sewn diagonally connecting at the collar.

I also believe it could be called a jacket or a coat because a jacket rests above or at the hips and a coat rests below the hips. I think depending on who wore this it could rest either at the hips or below.

I think this could be late 40s or early 50s because these types of jackets or coats with the turned back cuffs and the swinging flare were worn at both times. I am not a vintage expert by any means and ask tons of questions here of these wonderous trade members and friends too but my biggest area of knowledge is in coats.

Here is a 40s pattern which shows the backside of a jacket that is similar to yours however the jacket in the pattern does not have raglan sleeves.

1940sfullswingbackcoatpattern.jpg


Caryn
 
vgirl, I was thinking the same thing, that Alice's jacket looks "from here" as if it has raglan sleeves, which is why I would lean slightly early 50s vs late 40s. The jacket I have has set-in sleeves and the larger shoulder pads, which is why I lean late 40s on mine.

I think she's be safe in calling this a 40s/50s' "cusper," as it could be slightly on one side or another of 1950.

Mine is not as flared and is a day style, but very similar:

il_570xN-13.jpg
 
I was asking about "sunburst" because I remember seeing that term somewhere???? :scratchchin:

The back of the jacket/coat, as well as the front, are each composed for four separate panels, so it sort of looks like "sun rays" extending from the neckline.

Once again I have received more great information from you all.

Thank you!!!

Alice
 
sunburst seams are a lot of small vertical seams. i wouldn't call something that just had a few sunburst seams.

it's a lovely coat :)
 
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