Unusual Christian Dior Jacket

Wrenbay

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Hi, I have a Christian Dior jacket/blazer that I'm having a hard time identifying. There is no label but it has beautiful logo lining. Thank you in advance for your much appreciated expertise.

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I am trying to think of the earliest example I have ever seen a Dior damask lining. I know it was being used in the early 60s, but I have a recollection that I have seen one older example -- I just can't remember what it was and how old... it might have been 1958ish? This jacket, however, looks much older - more 1948-50ish.

The tassels and braid trim look wrong to me for Dior - they are very 'off the peg' trims that any dressmaking shop would have and their placement doesn't seem very 'Dior' to me... but I don't know for sure... can you take some pics of inside seam, finishing etc.? It is definitely an odd one.
 
is it possible that someone replaced the original buttons, and added the blue decorative items? maybe to cover a stain? or it was a bridal jacket and someone wanted to change it up for a blue skirt or dress. I would expect the tassel to go from the inside of the two fabric layers not to be sewn on it.
 
Those flat skirt hooks and flat bars as front closures are quite odd - except that is exactly something we would have done in the costume shop for a theatre production. Easier for actor hands to deal with and less likely to come undone than standard hooks and eyes. And faster to sew than good buttonholes plus easier to alter!
So to me, the older Teens style, the modern closures, large scale and high contrast trimmings that would pop from stage, the shantung fabric, the purchased Dior lining, and the nice, but not super fine stitching and finishing - this all says good costume shop construction to me.
 
Maybe that's what they had in stock? I doubt it was expensive lining - Dior licensed all sorts of stuff for quite a while, and some of the items were not high end.
 
I think it might be an amateur dressmaker's design. Dior lining fabric was available over the counter.
Gosh I did not know that, that’s fascinating! Was this common with the top design houses? Which period did this cover? I came across a pretty vintage frock style coat with a vintage burberry lining recently but no other designer marked elements (no label, stamped buttons etc). Might explain that to me.
 
So to me, the older Teens style, the modern closures, large scale and high contrast trimmings that would pop from stage, the shantung fabric, the purchased Dior lining, and the nice, but not super fine stitching and finishing - this all says good costume shop construction to me.

this was my first thought, too.

the first I saw designer linings en masse was in the early 80s in Honolulu.
 
These linings can still be found in bins in the garment center in NYC.
Oh wow! again, I had no idea. I presume these are offcuts and not available to buy online? I did see a couple of online sellers with shot cuts of well known signed designer printed fabrics. I wonder where they had come from. Some of them would have been gorgeous for soft furnishings!
 
Oh yeah, I keep finding 90s leather jackets and coats with YSL linings, and they are definitely not YSL designs.
 
This particular lining was used in 1980s for licensed Dior men's ties that were made in the USA. It's printed diagonally because ties are cut in bias.
I have seen off cuts of this lining has been sold on eBay.
 

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