Vintage Afghan Coat - Unusual Monochrome Design

[Debbiejcd]

Hello folks
I was looking for advice with this Penny Lane Afghan Coat
It is made from some form of suede (could be Yak) and I understand the black edges to be Yak wool
When I got it the suede seemed on the dry side - I sprayed it with mink oil which I know helps to hydrate and condition suede and it’s looking better - but now ran out of spray - so have just ordered more so I can do do another treatment.
I think it’s probably 1970’s - but not entirely sure - it might be later - so opinions welcome
There are some marks and overall it’s quite fragile - although better now better that the suede is getting more supple - the black furry edges seem firm they are not shedding

It’s quite unusual in its colours - being a monochrome example - usually penny lane coats I’ve seen are rather more colourful than this is. Because of the monochrome - it has an almost tribal feel to the design

It’s not without issues - I have done some repairs to it already by hand - some tears to the lining area by underarm area and also the areas where the hooks were attached had took some strain and tore the suede edge - so I have refinforced the areas with some stitching - it’s hidden by the black furry edges so you don’t see them when worn.

My issue is the collar, plus the wool area around the base and a chunk of the edge is missing down the front edge
I am not sure how best to repair these areas so any suggestions welcome & appreciated

I had thought maybe the collar and hem area undersides might need some further treatment to the suede to help make them more supple and then a protective cover over the whole area - sort of a fabric to cover / protect
The section with missing chunk - all I can think is a patch on the area.
- Not sure if furry edge can be replaced in that missing area - it’s not huge - but if it could be done would be nice

Does anyone have suggestions for treatment / repair with this
I think it’s worth a bit of effort with it - also advice=cemin spot cleaning some areas would be good - I don’t think I want to risk a dry clean
I am just trying to bring it back to life

 

[kaonash1]

this is insanely gorgeous-- where and how did you find this coat? I think you should try and see if there is a furrier anywhere near you. I also recommend posting on reddit especially about the suede, there are people on there who are quite knowledgable about leather and suede who might have better insight-- good luck!!

 

[Debbiejcd]

Hello there
Thank you - yes it is an interesting example - i bought from Canada although am in the uk - I did ask about its history but got no info from seller which is a shame as it would have been helpful

I never thought about Reddit - but yes I could hop over there and take a look at suede / leather maintenance boards - excellent idea
Thank you

 

[Jonathan]

That is a pretty one. I have never heard the term 'Penny Lane' for these coats before, and I have also never heard they were made of Yak. The original ones were made of karakul sheepskin. I have always assumed these were from the late 60s-70s and don't recall them being worn into the 80s as they had that 'hippy' stigma attached to them, until hippy revival kit big again in the mid 90s, but I think most of those ones were made in the style of, but were not from Afghanistan since it was at war at the time and exports weren't coming out. Anyway, it looks 1970s to me - very pretty - never seen one with black only embroidery, but I suspect it's sheepskin, not yak.

 

[poppysvintageclothing]

That is a beauty! I have heard these coats referred to as the one Kate Hudson (Penny Lane) wore in the Almost Famous movie.

 

[Debbiejcd]

Hello there Jonathan
To be honest you could be right and it is sheepskin
I was really only repeating what the seller had told me it was - which I have also questioned myself.
To be honest I have had to google what a Yak actually was when seller identified it as this and was pretty relieved to find it to be a form of cattle
I see yak wool being sold online (its expensive) - and there does seem to be a Yak suedes / leathers industry but seemingly mainly for smaller goods like shoes boots etc rather than coats.
The black wool edges do feel different to most sheepskin I have had - So I just don't know
I have owned several sheepskin coats (still have them) and agree the skin could be this or even goat skin would be a possibility which I think may have also been used historically for some afghan coats although more rarely
The Penny Lane attribution only came about in the Noughties when Kate Hudsons iconic character in the film Almost Famous apparently wore one of these coats for most of the movie - Penny Lane being her character name - I must at some point try and watch the film - So the kids of today like to call them Penny Lane Coats although I am a girl of the 60's / 70's when they were only ever referred to as Afghan Coats - Helped along the way ofcourse by the iconic images of The Beatles wearing them - I remember my dear mum buying me a turquoise number from C&A in the mid 70;s - they were simply everywhere at the time - but I digress......

I have no idea of its original source - I do read that modern examples get produced a lot in Turkey though rather than Afghanistan.

 

[Jonathan]

That makes sense - I saw that movie but a long time ago when it came out and had forgotten that name. I thought maybe it was in reference to the Beatles song Penny Lane and John Lennon wearing an Afghan coat, except Penny Lane was on the Sgt. Pepper's album, so it was just before they went all Eastern...

 

[retro ruth]

or even goat skin

I also wondered about goat, and agree yak is unlikely. However there’s various types of sheepskin, different breeds do feel different.

Yes these are routinely referred to as Penny Lane coats.