Vintage dress suits Davidow

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forever52

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Hi all. I registered here some time back and then never got back to this but I have a couple of vintage womens suits I would like to share. Any further information and estimated value of them would be appreciated. Now if I can just figure out how to use this because not familiar with this format at all so bear with me please.
First is a Davidow womens suit. I estimate it 50-60s, in part due to this designer being very popular in that era, being inspired by Chanel designs. No fabric label but guess is a wool blend suit and fur collar. Union labels as shown. Only one very small hole sesame seed size, in jacket lining and missing eye hook for closure above metal back zipper
Other information I found on this:
Davidow company began with William H. Davidow and Sons in the 1880's and grew into a major manufacturer of suits in the mid 20th century. It is known for designing with wool tweeds in the likeness of Chanel designs (retailing for more like $150.00)
The other label, Brandeis (French Room) is of a very well known department store chain first located in Omaha, Nebraska in 1881 and finally selling out to Yonkers in 1987 for 33.9 million dollars
 
Labels of above Davidow suit, I have picture but how do I put another picture up I do not see the attachment thingy again
 
It's Davidow, and Chanel, please note spelling, as your research has revealed. You're doing really great with the information that you've located so far.
What leads you to feel that it is a wool blend?

Let me see if I can find those VFG picture-uploading instructions. It can be a bit tricky, I know. I host my photos on flickr, so it's pretty easy that way.

You can only add one photo at a time, per post I think. One moment, please.
Okay, here are the instructions for photo uploading:
http://forums.vintagefashionguild.org/viewthread.php?tid=63045&page=1#pid617819

Oh wait, I see your photos now. Nice job! Fab suit!

That is the National Recovery Board label, the little one:
http://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/national-recovery-board/
 
Oops sorry for some reason repeatedly type the Davidow wrong (corrected so peeps weren't confused). Choosing wool or wool blend, not because I know much about fabric but because it has a texture like wool and because of the subtle pattern like you see in tweed. Yes, much of my posted information was found here and that is why I decided to take it a step further and find out more.
Did see the links about the label you provided. Also read somewhere that at some point wool content label came into use and I do not have one of those labels. Been a while since I researched this, should have posted earlier when it was all fresh but didn't have time to figure it all out til now
 
What a beautiful suit, and in a lovely colour too! I would date as very early 1950s, maybe even very late '40s and expect the tweed to be pure wool.

The buttons look like they may not be original and if you look at the skirt, it may be the wrong way around - is the zip at the side or the back? See if it will sit better if you turn it 90 degrees - hopefully there will not be a centre seam.

Nicole

by the way, your label differs slightly from the one in the label resource (it doesn't have Made in USA at the bottom), you might like to submit it for inclusion.
 
Thanks so much for your knowlege and ideas. What a learning experience this place is.

Correcting and clarifying myself here as I go get the outfit back out and refresh my memory. The metal zipper is at side (careless description there), there is a slit at back . In regard to buttons, perhaps this method of attachment has a name, but it looks like the threads from the four holes are twisted together to form 1 cord like thread and leaving it so the button, although secure, is not tight against the coat.
Flapped front pockets are shallow.
On closer inspection I have no problem agreeing it is 100% wool (is a bit softer than some though).
I do believe the collar's real fur, although again, I do not know fur well so what kind? Fur is applied to top of collar and the bottom is the wool fabric.

In regard to submitting the union label, if I just crop that picture do you think it will be good enough as it is hard to get a better picture with it sewn in the seam like that? Do I just go to the home page and labels information and find how to submit it there?

Can anyone give me a value? Ive pretty much seen prices all over the board on these, although have not come across one with a fur collar yet?

I have another suit that I want to add to this thread once discussion on this one is satisfied. They were both purchased same time and place and I believe may have been from the same owner so perhaps that may further shed some light on dating etc.

Once again, thanks for the input :)
Kathy
 
Buttons sewn on pretty much like this, right?
http://www.bonobos.com/blog/how-to/7393/

How are the buttonholes done?

I would say the collar is mink (not that I am much of a fur person at all). Have you discovered the VFG fur resource?
http://vintagefashionguild.org/fur-resource/

For the Recovery Board label, is much of it within the seam, as it appears to be, in the photo? Or, would a bit more be visible, if laid flat and lightly held down with a pin or other implement to get the best photo, using a macro setting?

Is it pretty much like this one?
 
I agree that it will be a real fur collar, Joules is probably right about it being mink. Thank you for the extra information about the skirt, the split will be at the back so the skirt is the right way around.

You can see all the details for posting labels to the resource here including sizing details.

Nicole
 
From the Davidows I have handled, it would definitely be all wool and real fur. They made high quality suits. However, it is possible the fur collar is an addition. Is it hand sewn to a wool collar underneath? And does the outer edge match the shape of the under collar exactly? How well is it sewn? It's not a detraction if it's an addition, unless it was added to cover a flaw. I just ask because it's a bit different.

As to age, I am going to differ with Nicole a bit. The Davidow suit with the straight skirt and boxier jacket cut were terribly popular in the US in later 50s and into the early 60s. Those I have handled from the early 50s had a more fashionable fitted waist.

As to value, these are indeed all over the place. I have found many to be optimistically priced. I suggest you look at completed auctions and actual sales rather than asking price.

I have 3 Davidows on my website now if you want to take a look at The Suits section. One is early 50s, two are early 60s. This suit has much more in common with the early 60s versions.

Hollis
 
My first thought was late '50s, but I dated it earlier due to the skirt which looks A line to me - but it's more of a straight skirt, I agree with late '50s possibly into the early '60s.

Nicole
 
Okay so I am on the right right path estimateing it 50-60's from the way it sounds and the real fur collar.

Past perfect vintage (Hollis) ;) I have been to your place in my Davidow search and found some very nice things including the suits. Often when I find vintage online that sold though, I do not know for how much as it does not always show! The idea that the fur collar was added later is something I never thought of, but I think it is original to the piece, just to neatly done to think otherwise.

Joules yes that is how the buttons are sewn on. Thanks for the fur link I will need to take some time to check that out. I have several coats here too which that link should help with. In regard to the label, it is not sewn in the seam but a few stitches are used to stitch it into the fold of a dart in the lining (you can see them in the picture) which is really what is keeping me from getting a better picture so short of removing those extra stitches and probably the label itself in the process , I can't pull it out any better than that so I think I will leave well enough alone. My label is very similar to the one you picture, just no numbers at top like yours. Back looks like it has Consumer Protection, Manufactured Fair Labor on it and a number at side
 
Oh and there was a paper button bag (empty though), with this Davidow suit. Not sure when they started adding the extra buttons packages to garments??
 
I will post a new thread for the other suit I mentioned, being it is not a Davidow. Feel free of course to offer more comments on this one too
 
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