Vintage Hirshleifer's Dress

manicvintage

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Hello!
I am new to the VFG Forum so please correct & guide me if I am inaccurate in my post!
I found this amazing Vintage Couture Dress labeled "Hirshleifer's" with no noted flaws.
Although I learned plenty about the Hirshleifer's Boutique Store & Company, I am unsure of it's value & want to verify the date of the dress, although I believe it to be from the 1960's.

It is Shift/Sheath in Style with Yellow Tissue Silk Chiffon under Silver Metallic Lace adorned with Gold Jewels. Silk Chiffon Sweetheart Bust with Lace Overlay up to the neck, gathered pleats at shoulders and thick beaded, jeweled rather wide neck. Wide Beaded, Jeweled Hem as well. Back metal Zip up.

I've only found one other Vintage Hirshleiger's label dress via google and it sold showing no price. Other than that I found a suit & a coat which don't really compare to the detail and craftmanship of this dress. I am wondering if it's because so many of Hirshleifer's dresses were under not only their label but also the designers and this dress has no designer label intact.

Can anyone help?!
 
Hi...very pretty!

I think you are right on the date. As to the price, we really cant appraise the value, but it appears to be a high end dress.
I would just try to look around and see what similar type dresses are selling for. At some point you will just have to place a value on it based on the best information you can find.
 
Such a lovely dress. I would date it to the late 60's. I'm not familiar with Hirshelifer's but was wondering if there is evidence in the dress that it's couture.
Amber, I am new to Couture Vintage Finds and would need your guidance as to what to look for other than the equisitie bead & jewel detail work on this dress & find fabrics making it couture. I base Couture on the History of Hirshleifer's. Hishleifer's was founded in 1903 on Manhattan ave NY, a family owned, based business offering only the best such as Chanel, Balenciaga, Celine, Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Libertine, Lanvin, Missoni, Phillip Lim, Pringle, The Row, Rag and Bone, Roberto Cavalli, Valentino and Yves St. Laurent. I know I read that the Owner traveled to Europe for designer fabrics and to meet with the best up & coming designers to offer here in the states.
 
Couture is a custom made item for a specific client; made to measure. Not all designer items are couture. If they are made ready to wear, as in you go into the boutique and try it on and then purchase it, it's not couture. Just because an item is designer, doesn't mean it's couture.

If you look at the interior of your garment I would expect to see fine hand finishing and detail if it is a couture piece. Also, the measurements are often a bit different from off the rack affairs.

It sounds like your dress is a very nice, well made piece. Did you happen to research the designers that the owner worked with during the late 60's??
 
Couture is a custom made item for a specific client; made to measure. Not all designer items are couture. If they are made ready to wear, as in you go into the boutique and try it on and then purchase it, it's not couture. Just because an item is designer, doesn't mean it's couture.

If you look at the interior of your garment I would expect to see fine hand finishing and detail if it is a couture piece. Also, the measurements are often a bit different from off the rack affairs.

It sounds like your dress is a very nice, well made piece. Did you happen to research the designers that the owner worked with during the late 60's??

Thank you for defining Couture. It seems to me that the Couture description tag is often misused atleast as I've seen it. Nevertheless, the measurements are| Bust: 36"| Waist: 34"| Hips: 37"| Length: 53"| on hips & waist one could say "up to". These are flat measurements. I've yet to inspect the interior as it is stored away but I will get to it tomorrow and repost. As for researching designers Hirshleifers collaborated with during the late 60s - All I can collect is from their website - "Norman Norrell, Donald Brooks, Bill Blass, Stella Sloat, Ben Reig, Originala, Tiffeau Busch, James Galanos, Oscar del la Renta" - "In addition to buying goods from designers on Seventh Avenue’s ready-to-wear market, Paul also traveled to Europe to supplement his collections with the finest in Parisian and Italian fashions"
 
Yes, it's vastly overused and misused. Due to this misuse, more and more buyers are confused as to what the term actually means. That's why it's important to not label non-couture items as couture.

I did some reading and it's pretty much a guarantee that your dress is ready to wear. I will post a paragraph below that talks about how Hirshleifer's was a huge success at the time with the emergence of ready to wear. Since Paul Hirshleifer stock primarily American designers but supplemented his shop with high end designs that he purchased in Europe, I would imagine that your dress has a good chance of being of European descent. That being said, since he purchased these for his shop in the US, it's pretty unlikely that they were ordered ahead and custom made for specific clients. It sounds like they were purchased specifically for the store.

Have you turned this dress inside out and looked for another tag? I would imagine that it may have used to have a designer tag in there somewhere if the dress is indeed designer. I will say one thing though, that your dress is likely a very high end design to be sold at this shop.

"AN AMERICAN FASHION IDENTITY
Indeed, after centuries of dependence on the dictates of Parisian fashion houses, Americans watched as the European couture industry shut down during World War II. It was during this unique window of opportunity that the ready-to-wear industry, an American phenomenon, stepped in to fill the fashion gap. Industrialized production methods and standardized sizings that led to the manufacture of clothing designed to fit a majority of the population supplanted professional tailors that provided clothing personally made to reflect individual measurements. The ready-to-wear industry, as it was called, brought with it a couture style and quality but a price-tag that made the clothing more affordable. From elegant eveningwear to casual sportswear and separates, from high-end gowns to less expensive goods, ready-to-wear changed the fashion industry in America, making fashion more accessible and spawning a host of new designers that Paul introduced at Hirshleifers. From names like Pauline Trigere, Rudy Gernreich, Ben Zuckerman with his coats and suits, Norman Norrell, Donald Brooks, Bill Blass, Stella Sloat, Ben Reig, Originala, Tiffeau Busch, James Galanos, Oscar del la Renta came stylish sportwear and elegant eveningwear with a uniquely American look and feel. Paul and Rose were able to position Hirshleifer’s to take advantage of this design renaissance.
.
In addition to buying goods from designers on Seventh Avenue’s ready-to-wear market, Paul also traveled to Europe to supplement his collections with the finest in Parisian and Italian fashions. Believing that the high-end luxury market was relatively immune from the downturns of the economy, Paul invested his dollars in the purchase of very expensive goods that he then offered for sale. This was a potentially risky step, requiring strong conviction and a confidence in his vision. A talented and insightful businessman, Paul’s vision came to pass."
 
I would call a dress like this high end ready to wear with couture details. Although these type garments do not fit the definition of couture they are often times equivalent when it comes to cut, construction and the quality of materials. I can see that your dress is beautifully made, with lovely hand work and the materials would have been costly. Very nice piece.

Melody
 
Yes, it's vastly overused and misused. Due to this misuse, more and more buyers are confused as to what the term actually means. That's why it's important to not label non-couture items as couture.

I did some reading and it's pretty much a guarantee that your dress is ready to wear. I will post a paragraph below that talks about how Hirshleifer's was a huge success at the time with the emergence of ready to wear. Since Paul Hirshleifer stock primarily American designers but supplemented his shop with high end designs that he purchased in Europe, I would imagine that your dress has a good chance of being of European descent. That being said, since he purchased these for his shop in the US, it's pretty unlikely that they were ordered ahead and custom made for specific clients. It sounds like they were purchased specifically for the store.

Have you turned this dress inside out and looked for another tag? I would imagine that it may have used to have a designer tag in there somewhere if the dress is indeed designer. I will say one thing though, that your dress is likely a very high end design to be sold at this shop.

"AN AMERICAN FASHION IDENTITY
Indeed, after centuries of dependence on the dictates of Parisian fashion houses, Americans watched as the European couture industry shut down during World War II. It was during this unique window of opportunity that the ready-to-wear industry, an American phenomenon, stepped in to fill the fashion gap. Industrialized production methods and standardized sizings that led to the manufacture of clothing designed to fit a majority of the population supplanted professional tailors that provided clothing personally made to reflect individual measurements. The ready-to-wear industry, as it was called, brought with it a couture style and quality but a price-tag that made the clothing more affordable. From elegant eveningwear to casual sportswear and separates, from high-end gowns to less expensive goods, ready-to-wear changed the fashion industry in America, making fashion more accessible and spawning a host of new designers that Paul introduced at Hirshleifers. From names like Pauline Trigere, Rudy Gernreich, Ben Zuckerman with his coats and suits, Norman Norrell, Donald Brooks, Bill Blass, Stella Sloat, Ben Reig, Originala, Tiffeau Busch, James Galanos, Oscar del la Renta came stylish sportwear and elegant eveningwear with a uniquely American look and feel. Paul and Rose were able to position Hirshleifer’s to take advantage of this design renaissance.
.
In addition to buying goods from designers on Seventh Avenue’s ready-to-wear market, Paul also traveled to Europe to supplement his collections with the finest in Parisian and Italian fashions. Believing that the high-end luxury market was relatively immune from the downturns of the economy, Paul invested his dollars in the purchase of very expensive goods that he then offered for sale. This was a potentially risky step, requiring strong conviction and a confidence in his vision. A talented and insightful businessman, Paul’s vision came to pass."​
 
I've been swamped and I apologize for just now getting back to you and thank you for all your help!
I turned the dress inside out & there is no other tag but there is handstitching around the bodice and a few other areas.
I wish I knew the designer!
 
I would call a dress like this high end ready to wear with couture details. Although these type garments do not fit the definition of couture they are often times equivalent when it comes to cut, construction and the quality of materials. I can see that your dress is beautifully made, with lovely hand work and the materials would have been costly. Very nice piece.

Melody
thank you TangerineBoutique for that helpful insight & information! I just turned the dress inside out looking for another tag which I found none but I did find evidence of handstitching.
 
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