Vintage rayon

plousia

plousia

Registered Guest
I just found a 50s (I believe) men's smoking jacket made of the most gorgeous thick rayon faille and satin. It got me thinking, the rayon you find today or even going back to the 80s just is not the same quality. It's nice enough I guess, but it's so much thinner and less silky and just is not nearly the same.

Does anyone know anything about the history of rayon and why it's not nearly as nice as vintage rayon? Did the process change at some point? Is anybody out there still making the good stuff (that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?)

Inquiring minds want to know!
 
Actually after posting that I recalled that I have an 80s blouse made of really nice silky thick viscose, but for sure the more recent stuff and many other 80s rayon doesn't match up.
 
Hi plousia, yes you're right: the older rayons are lovelier but they weren't very robust. Tend to shink and/or rip when laundered, or needed dry cleaning. They changed the recipe in the '50s so modern rayons are stronger, can be machine washed but aren't as nice. I do love the older rayons.

From the fabric resource:
"High Wet Modulus (HWM) or modal rayon was developed in the 1950s; it is a variation of viscose rayon which makes for a stronger fiber."

Nicole
 
I recall reading many many years ago, an article about rayon and why it is different. Aside from what has been stated, it put forth the so called fact that the "recipe" for making some of those old pre-war rayons was lost. No company wanted to try to figure out how to make again or build the equipment to do so, as the new synthetics were the way to go for the USA market. Not sure if that is true, I never looked into it.
 
That's fascinating and rather sad if true. It would be amazing if someone was motivated enough to find out how to recreate it.
 
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