We need help identifying this Josephine S. Smith dress - 1920s?

[Chelsea3349]

Hi all!
My sister & I came across this dress in an old chest last week, and we need some help! The label inside reads "Importer Josephine S. Smith - Springfield, Mass." The dress is light pink (maybe silk), with an over-sized bow at the back, rhinestone straps, and an overall moiré pattern to the dress. Attached are images of the dress. We searched the label via Google & here on VFG as well, only to find one image of a Schiaparelli cape, with the Josephine S. Smith label. Does anyone know what time period this dress is from, or who may have made the dress? Do you know anything about the importer Josephine S. Smith? Any information would be greatly appreciated. We have never seen anything quite like this dress...we are hoping someone may know something! Thank you so much!

 

[lkranieri]

It seems Josephine S. Smith had a long and busy career. The earliest reference I found was an 1895 Springfield MA newspaper blurb that noted: "Other smaller buildings erected are: Auburn street, C.C. Abbe, two at $3000 each; Gardner street, Josephine S. Smith, $2700..."

According to the 1930 census Josephine S. Smith was born in France ca. 1876 and came to the US ca. 1886.

A 1904 classified ad stated: "Notice is hereby given that the copartnership heretofore existing between Josephine S. Smith and the undersigned, under the name of Smith & Stanton, formerly engaged in the millinery business at No. 18 Vernon st, Springfield, Mass., has been dissolved by mutual consent, the undersigned retiring from said copartnership. All bills will be paid by and collected by Josephine S. Smith. ADELAIDE M. STANTON. In the 1904 directory for Springfield Josephine S. Smith is listed as a milliner.

Through at least 1922 Smith's occupation was recorded as "Milliner," but in the 1923 directory her occupation was "Gowns," in addition to "Millinery." The 1927 directory records her occupation as "Ladies Apparel."

In the same Springfield MA 1930 census mentioned earlier, she is listed as married, but the only other person in her household was her 35 year old son. Her occupation in 1930 was recorded as "Proprietor" for a "Retail Millinery Store" and her son was listed a salesman there.

The last reference I found to Smith was a 1953 classified ad for a "Sewer on Ladies Apparel."

 

[Jonathan]

Aside from all that great reference material Lkranieri supplied, stylistically, the dress looks middly-late 20s to me 26-27ish to me.

 

[Circa Vintage Clothing]

Lovely dress - the oversized bow is great.

 

[Pinkcoke]

I'm interested to know if others think the diamante trim is original or a later addition? as I have only had this on 40's/50's evening/cocktail dresses.

 

[Circa Vintage Clothing]

I agree Melanie, it could be an addition. The stitching should reveal all. I generally associate that sort of diamante trim with '40s-'50s too.

The middle of the bow looks like it might be an added piece too, it looks like it's handsewn on a little more visibly than I would expect (it should be sewn from the underside, not the top) so perhaps it's a replacement for a missing or damaged part.

 

[anothertimevintageapparel]

I wondered about both of these points, especially the straps.

 

[Jonathan]

I think the straps are fine. I have seen rhinstone straps like that before on 20s evening gowns. It is backed by the silk taffeta, so the rhinestones are purely ornamental.

 

[Better Dresses Vintage]

Chelsea I am so envious. What a lovely find!

 

[Chelsea3349]

Hi everyone!
Thank you so much for your replies & information! It has been very helpful! My sister sent an email to Robert & Penny Fox Historic Costume Collection, and the collections manager shared the following information: "The dress is very lovely! It’s probably c. 1925. The Smith label is just what it says—an importer of French couture, whether it’s a registered copy of an actual design house, or a knock-off from a Parisian dress shop." She also said a good place to start looking for the dress is in vintage Vogue magazines, which I need to hunt down.

Also, the bow & straps are original to the dress, and were not added at a later date. Both a curator and a professional seamstress confirmed this for me. Thanks so much for all of your help! I appreciate it very much!