Who's Your Fave "Non-Name" Designer?

MyVintageCocktail

VFG Member
Who\'s Your Fave \"Non-Name\" Designer?

There are a lot of what I call "second- or third-tier" designers. By that I mean the slew of great American designers (they don't have to be American, but I find that my favorites are) who don't have the big names but who did high-quality, stylish work, couture or RTW, and "don't get no respect," or much.... They used high-quality fabrics in interesting ways, or produced quirky designs, or traditional ones with a twist. Often they had small NYC design houses that are now gone. Everybody raves about the Chanels (who personally I don't care for) of the world, the YSLs, Diors, etc. I'm not even talking names like Ceil Chapman, Oleg Cassini, or the like. More like these, who are some of my favorites, but not household names:

Ben Barrack--his work in the 40s & 50s was superb. Great silks and wools, simple designs with nice details.

Bill Atkinson--his hippie and mod designs in the 60s were totally cool. Nice 50's stuff, too, but I really like his 60's designs. Love most of his stuff & buy it whenever I see it, which isn't often. He's a very interesting story as well.

Nathan Strong--great quality fabrics, sophisticated designs

Early Shannon Rodgers--while he's well known, not all of his work is. I've seen only a few examples--and had one at one time--of his work from the 50s before he teamed up with Silverman. Great stuff!

So, who do you love? Do you collect a particular designer who's not a household name? Who else did great work but has gone largely unnoticed?
 
I love finding the Bea Young line of day dresses. Always a nice pattern and usually a realistic size. Not sure if they catered to the ample lady of the time, but I've not found one below a modern medium. The Brandeis store in Omaha carried them, and had a special room for the "non designer" brands at affordable prices where the cotton dresses would be (source GGma-in-law).

I'm fond of early R & K, although I've found later ones where they were taken over by the polyester double knit monster.
 
Originally posted by vintagebaubles


Early Shannon Rodgers--while he's well known, not all of his work is. I've seen only a few examples--and had one at one time--of his work from the 50s before he teamed up with Silverman. Great stuff!

This made me a fan:
IMG_1131-1.jpg


Cute, sexy summer dress.

I really like Adele Simpson and Karen Stark/Harvey Berin.
 
The biographical info the VFG label resource provides on Parisian designer Emmanuelle Khanh is fascinating, and I'd love to see more of her work than I do. I've managed to find only one piece by her. I think it's extraordinary; I almost fell over when I saw the collar:

khanh-duo.jpg


It's from the late 80s or early 90s. I know she's famous for her oversize eyeglasses, but I'm really curious about her clothing from the 60s.

MC
 
Oh, man, Julie, that Shannon Rodgers is hot! Love it! I can see why it made you a fan (some of the later work from the 70s can be almost dowdy; these earlier pieces are mahvelous, dahling).

The piece I had from him was a 50's sundress that had those body-skimming lines. Sophisticated and sexy at the same time.
 
Kathy Lee and Jacquiline Smith Collections!!!!!! Alfred Dunner!!!!! Totally underestimated in my opinion!!!!!!!

(Only Kidding!)

-Chris
 
Oh, and another surprising one.. Early Jonathan Logan stuff can be dynamite... Honest to God, and I'm not kidding. Their 50's pieces were trendy and nice quality. Some of the later things were nice as well.
 
I too love a lot of the early Jonathan Logans. When, in 1958, a pooched-out sacque-back profile hit the runway it was called the “New Chemise” in the fashion mags and pattern books and was considered a daring cut. A short-lived look, but Jonathan Logan picked it up and made this version in a beautiful polished cotton, with a wide flat bow right below the gathers:

jlsaque-duo.jpg


MC
 
Originally posted by vintagebaubles
Oh, and another surprising one.. Early Jonathan Logan stuff can be dynamite... Honest to God, and I'm not kidding. Their 50's pieces were trendy and nice quality. Some of the later things were nice as well.

That was my choice, too! I'm a fan of the early Logan stuff, too. And I agree that some of the later things were all nice.

I agree with the R&K comment as well. Some nice stuff even when they were polyester, I've found cute ruffly blouses that I've sold more than a few of over the years.

I've had a few Carol Brent items too that I thought were great.
 
Susan, I love L'Aiglon dresses, and have tried over the years to acquire some. But since the only place I ever see them is on eBay, I usually get outbid, or the flaws are too much for me to deal with. I'd love to see some of your estate buy! Post some pics for us!!!!
 
I'm glad to see the love for early R&K. I have 3 dresses by R&K that are in high rotation for wearing everyday and I was worried that I was uncool for liking them so much :embaressed:

Two of them are winter day dresses that are great for work. They are comfortable, warm and so well made.

I always get compliments on this one:

[img=239x447]http://pics.livejournal.com/laughingmagpie/pic/000g8d0b[/img]
[img=336x448]http://pics.livejournal.com/laughingmagpie/pic/000g7e4y[/img]

This is a bit plain Jane, but it's so well done and can spruced up with accessories. There are elbow darts, curved bust darts, nice big pockets that help define the waist and three big kick pleats in the back for comfortable walking and a bit of surprising flare:

[img=447x416]http://pics.livejournal.com/laughingmagpie/pic/000g5g2h[/img]
[img=265x447]http://pics.livejournal.com/laughingmagpie/pic/000g42f9[/img]

And this dressier one, also full of little details, I wear all the time for dinners and cocktails. I feel very "swish" in it:

IMG_5561.jpg

IMG_5560.jpg
 
I had a Jerry Silverman 60's dress which was beautifully made. I gave it to Kent State because they had very little from Silverman and Rodgers at the time. The two designers had a magnificent collection but very little if anything of their own when they gave the collection to Kent State.

Since the couture houses didn't make rtw until the 70s, many Am. manufacturers bought couture and copied it. All would have gone to the shows even if they weren't going to copy. Claire
 
Back
Top