A Fashionable Summer ~ Prue Acton of Australia

PRUE ACTON
Australia's Golden Girl



Australian teen, Prue Acton, could have been like any other teenager from anywhere. She had just completed 4 years of art studies at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology. But at the age of 19, Prue wasn't searching her soul trying to decide what she wanted out of life. This 19 year old already knew.

She wanted to be an artist.


The wish would eventually be fulfilled. The only requirement was, Prue had to answer the call of fate first. She was destined for bigger things before she would settle for the quiet life of an artist.

The year was 1963 and the birth of pop had just begun. The Beatles, the British Mod Movement and expression through fashions was transforming the faces of Europe and America. Prue felt the tug for something new and interesting to wear. The trouble was, all the Australian shops were still selling clothing better suited for mothers and housewives - not for a 19 year old with a yearn for self-expression to fill. So she did what any inventive person would do - she designed her own.





With the financial backing of her parents, Prue set-up shop in a dingy fifth floor room of a Melbourne side street. Three years later, she had she had a staff of 15 - including her father as bookkeeper, when he wasn't running his own supermarket business. The teen who wanted to be an artist went from designing for herself to turning out 3,000 dresses a week through various subcontractors.

Prue's designs were young, fresh and featured baby doll style dresses, ribbons, bows and lots of soft pastels.

In 1965 the young designer made her first trip to the United States. She was surprised by our lack of young designers here. Having already established 80 outlets among the high-priced shops in Australia and New Zealand, the next logical step was America. Prue accomplished that task by the following year when she became the first Australian to have a show in New York. Her use of mod designs and loud clashing colors also earned her another honor - she was know being called the Mary Quant of Australia.





In August of 1966, Lord & Taylor began running ads in the New York Times proclaiming:
[align=center]
Lord & Taylor loves Prue Acton
You will, too -
this talented young Australian designer is the pet of the Young New Yorker Shop. come see what Prue Acton has dreamed up for autumn - gently curving dresses for the new girl-about-fashion, in everything from soft wool knits to moonstruck silvery stuff for holiday evenings ahead.

Her collection is our alone and it's perfect for sizes 3 to 13.
$35.00 to $45.00 in the Young New Yorker Shop[/align]



That first ad featured hip dresses with low slung hip sashes and bows, pleated skirts and blouses with bows adorning the shoulders and swingy A-line dresses with asymmetrical detailing and a bow pulling it all together at the scooping neck.

While in 1966 Lord & Taylor could boast that Prue was theirs alone, by 1968 she was spreading out. Not only was she now married to menswear designer Michael Treloar and the mother of a young daughter but she was now designing a line of lingerie for Van Raalte. A 1968 ads for Marshall Fields & Company and Robinson's proclaimed that 'Jr. Intimates Catch Up to Fashion,' while displaying their Acton line of ruffled pettipants ($5) and matching bra ($4) in blue or pink print; petticoats ($5) and matching bra ($4) in black with pink stripes, blue with mauve stripes, navy or brown with white stripes; and patinos ($9), midi gowns ($13) and robes ($17) in yellow, pink or black with ruffled neck lines, lace and long ribbon sashes.

As the 60s drew to a close and the 70s styles began to evolve one again, Prue began designing tunics and pinafores to be work with matching slacks. By the mid 70s she was playing with the hippie trends of flowing, flowery dresses in gauze and ruffles.





Prue Acton label from 1974



A 1970 ad for Lord & Taylor got Prue's path right by exclaiming:
[align=center]
Prue Acton brings out the peasant girl in you! But they weren't just talking about dresses. Prue also moved her line of Van Raalte lingerie into the 70s boho/ethnic boom. The department store called her use of black and scarlet fabrics surprising and vivid - and thoroughly under the boho hold with ethnic embroidery and lots of rik rak.[/align]



Prue in the 1970s


Prue in the 1980s

The 80s saw the biggest change yet for Prue. Now in her early 40s, she was no longer in need of the alternative styles that had made her so popular in her youth. Even bigger then the change in style, was the way Prue's new lines where being marketed by Lord & Taylor. No longer was she billed as the wunderkind from down under. Lord & Taylor boldly advertised the new lines as, "The American Look". A September 1982 ad in the Chicago Tribune for the retailer read,


[align=center]"The American Look. The delight in discovering the fanciful mixture in texture, lighthearted silhouettes - the special something that adds a lift to your life. Just The American Look we love here in corduroy and lace.

Our dropped waist dress from witty young designer Prue Acton. A detachable lace collar patterns the yoke and pretty tucks circle the flounce. Pewter gray cotton corduroy with ivory base. 4-12 $205.00

You can thank Lord & Taylor for The American Look"[/align]











Something else happened to Prue Acton during the 1980s. She began to once again follow her first love, painting. So in addition to designing and running her $11 million dollar corporation, Prue returned to drawing classes. In 1992 Prue Acton, a leading fashion designer in Australia from 1963 to 1992, donated her designs and business records to the Frances Burke Textile Resource Centre
(FBTRC). The FBTRC houses the designs and business records, and Museum Victoria houses more than 500 costumes and accessories.

Today Prue spends her time painting. She find her inspiration in the Australian outback and in the natural wonder of its landscape. Prue remains and Australian institution and fashion icon. She does not design for retail anymore but will occasionally fill a special or corporate order.

In January of 2005 the Australian Postal Service honored Ms. Acton and 5 other living designers by placing them on the 2005 Australian Legends postage stamps.





CAREER HIGHLIGHTS

Educated Firbank (Anglican Grammar School), Melbourne. Graduated Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (Textile Design) c1963. Won Prestige Award for Textile Design 1961. Established business as a fashion designer in Flinders Lane, Melbourne, 1963. Acton travelled the world to promote her fashion and cosmetic ranges. Garments were made under licence in America, Japan and Germany.

During her career Acton has been variously described: as 'Australia's young darling of dress design', Hancock, 1970); with '...the soft pretty looks of a teenager and the tenacity of a hard-headed businessman' (Rayner, 1971); and, someone who 'effortlessly created fashion in the Australian vernacular' (Humphries, 1996).

Won Australian Wool Board Wool Fashion Awards 1965, 1966, 1969, 1970, 1971; David Jones Awards for Fashion Excellence 1971, 1972, 1978; FIA (Fashion Industry of Australia) Lyrebird Awards 1971, 1973 (Hall of Fame), 1978, 1980. Awarded OBE (Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire) 1982; Won Australian Fashion Awards 1985, 1987. Acton designed Australian Olympic uniforms (1978, Lake Placid, USA); (1984, Los Angeles); (1988, Seoul) .

Acton's repertoire of styles and design elements have included: 'gangster' pants suit; the baby vamp; the mini skirt; pintucked baby doll; the catsuit; the romantic look; capes; leatherwear; hardware (chains, brass buttons, studs); the pantsdress; culottes; battle jackets; peasant style; cut-outs, the wet look; the maxi; the tunic top; the coat dress; fun faux fur; the midi; delta style; poncho; the layered look; bib and braces; gaucho; animal prints; little knitted tops; cropped jackets; Beardsley-influenced prints; the tartar look; the tapestry look; mix and match; pinafore pants; hotpants; brickie knickers; patchwork suedes ...

Acton described herself as 'an artist who chooses to work in the field of fashion' (Portfolio, September, 1987). Since the early 1990s Acton has restricted design work to occasional corporate work. Her former hobby, painting, has become a fulltime occupation.

Prue Acton was formerly married to fashion designer Mike Treloar.

Source: http://www.cyberfibres.rmit.edu.au/

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LIFE AFTER FASHION


The Museum Victoria

In the 1960s a global youth culture developed for the first time in history.

In Australia, rock and roll established itself in Melbourne and, during this decade, the city was the undisputed national capital of youth culture.

All over the world the post war generation, the "Baby Boomers", were coming of age. A new generation was seeking and finding for itself a new way of doing things.

Prue Acton designed for, marketed and sold to this emerging youth culture. Her designs, her choice of colours, her successes, made her an icon of the 1960s.

Using the extensive archive of the Prue Acton Collection at the Museum of Victoria, "Prue Acton and the Swinging Sixties" shows her contribution to fashion design. This waypoint explores the new synthetic fabrics with which Prue Acton experimented, shows her designs and investigates the way she sold "the look". And it examines the social issues her career touched on.

The Prue Acton collection is of national significance as the material expression of the life work of one of Australia's leading fashion designers, from the 1960s–80s. It includes several hundred garments and associated material such as the make–up range, point–of–sale material, logos, signs and awards, photographs and oral history interviews. The collection is managed in collaboration with RMIT University's Textile Resource Centre, which holds the related business archives.

Source: http://www.museum.vic.gov.au/index.asp



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ART GALLERIES SCHUBERT

PRUE ACTON OBE

Born 1943 Benalla Victoria

Prue Acton began her studies in art at the tender age of 15 at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology. Her career as a professional full-time artist was put on hold as she surged ahead to become of Australia's leading fashion designers. From 1958 to 1962 she completed a Diploma of Art majoring in textiles at RMIT. From 1963 to 1991 she headed her own fashion manufacturing company. During the 1980’s she pursued her first love, painting, and began studying and painting with famous Australian artist, Clifton Pugh. She also attended life drawing classes at the prestigious Swinburne College Victoria, as well as studying with Merv Moriarity. Founder of the Brisbane Institute of Art. She was awarded an OBE (Officer of the Order of the British Empire) in 1982 for her outstanding services to the arts. From 1989 onwards she held group and sol exhibitions with Clifton Pugh and the Dunmoochin Artists as well as various galleries throughout Australia. Acton finds inspiration in the natural beauty of the Australian landscape. During her years with Clifton Pugh she traveled extensively throughout the outback of Australia and took part in field painting expeditions. She found inspiration in the almost every aspect of the daunting landscape. As Acton herself says: -

“I feel the rhythm of the land, of form, and am trying to capture this in my work. I am moved by the beauty of truth, of the real, visual world. I feel sheer joy in the way the light plays on form, and colour changes in time, and am seeking to capture the exquisite relationship of colour against colour.”

Prue’s work has been described as powerful. There is a raw truth in her work. She uses natural pigments from the soil on her property mixed with eggs of her own chickens to create Tempera paint. In doing this she captures the rich earthy colours of the Australian landscape. Her flower paintings are simple and muted, beautifully balancing light and shade.

Prue Acton is an Australian institution. Her love of art and the constant pursuit of it makes her one of Australia's most interesting and stimulating artists. Her work is represented in the RMIT as well as in private and corporate collections throughout Australia.


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Interview with Prue Acton, October 13, 2003

http://www.abc.net.au/gnt/history/Transcripts/s965804.htm


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The Australia Post Australian Legends Award
Issued January 21, 2005

Australia Post initiated the Australia Post Australian Legends Award in 1997 to honour living Australians who have made a unique contribution to our way of life, inspired the community and influenced the way Australians think about themselves and their country.

These are people whose achievements have inspired and enriched our lives, people who are motivated by the achievement of excellence and education of others.

The award comprises issuing a stamp in honour of each Legend(s). A range of philatelic products is produced as well as a book providing insights into each Australian Legend and their achievements.

2005 Australia Post Australian Legends Award






Australia Post selected the six designers based on their contribution to the evolution of contemporary Australian fashion as well as their influence on our national identity.

The 2005 Australian Legends stamp issue features first day covers, maxicards and stamp pack. A 64-page book, Australia In Fashion - Six Great Designers, by Zelda Cawthorne, is also being released to accompany the stamp issue.

Six fashion designers joined the exclusive ranks of Australians who have featured on a postage stamp during their lifetime.

The six designers - Prue Acton OBE, Jenny Bannister, Collette Dinnigan, Akira Isogawa, Joe Saba and Carla Zampatti AM - were named as the 2005 Australia Post Australian Legends.


Australia Post Managing Director Graeme John made the announcement at a tribute luncheon in Sydney for the new Australian Legends.

"The Australia Post Australian Legends Award has always been about honouring our nation's most talented and determined individuals," Mr John said. "And the six Australians that we are recognising today are certainly no exception to that rule."

"We honour them because they brought their creative vision to life through inspiration, hard work and a canny sense for business."

Source: http://www.auspost.com.au/APC/CDA/Homepage/APC_CDA_Homepage_Container/

 

Maureen, I knew nothing about this designer....what a fascinating
woman. I'm also not a fan of the 80s, however I DO like her 80s
designs (that jacket is phenomenal!)

Sue

 

Wow, Maureen! I also knew nothing about Miss Prue. Thanks for working so hard on this. Great workshop!

Jody

 

thank you maureen! not sure when i discovered prue acton existed, only the last year or so and i think that came from browsing ebay.au -i certainly hadn't delved very deeply into her history, so this is fab :spin:
and doesn't she look good these days too!

 

This is so interesting. I will definitely be on the look out for her label.

The early 70s pantsuit brings back memories. I can remember women not being able to wear pants to work but when the pantsuit came out that matched, then we were allowed to (as long as the top covered the rump).

The picture of her in the 80s with the white dress brings back memories, too. I use to wear my hair just like that!

I have just briefly scanned this since I am head over heels in work today. However, I am going to read in more in depth when I have time.

Thanks, Maureen!

 

I am so inspired by Acton's success at such a young age. It makes me kick myself for not pursuing a fabulous life in design when I was still young and naive. Am I too old at 30??? LOL.

Great pics Maureen!
Sandra

 

Fantastic work!! She really was an Aussie Quant wasn't she, in every stage of her career. Beautiful clothes, I only wish more of her work would turn up!!

Liz

 

Wonderful education here. Thanks, Maureen.

 

I couldn't agree more Liz. It is soooo hard to vintage early vintage Prue. The dress I have (the black one with the clashing colors) is the ONLY true vintage one I have ever found. I actually hope no one ever does buy it! lol. I would be so very sad to see it go!

~M

 

Maureen...that's a great dress...but...why don't you keep it if you will be upset if it sells Don't listen to me, I am corruptive.

I didn't know much about Prue, and now i know a little more!

It is interesting to see all of these individual designers and see how their work evolved over the decades and relate it to the general fashion movements of the day...how some designers seemed to all latch onto the same broad themes. We saw how mod designers and the movement in general shifted to softer lines in the late 60s - more feminine, floaty, and in some ways ethnic or renn fair inspired and earlier how Tina Leser and Louella Ballerino rose to popularity with their globally inspired textiles as the average person was experiencing more and more world travel post WWII almost in lock step.

 

Thank you Maureen! I'd never even read the name Prue Acton before today - although the photos of her work from the 80's seem awfully familiar. Probably just because they are so VERY 80's Very interesting. Well done!

Must say though that the ad showing the little boy pointing a <i>pistol</i> at the model is more than a little disturbing. Those wacky 70's, eh?

;)

Carolyn

 

You are all very welcome and thanks for all the comments. I enjoyed researching this and learning even more about Prue than I knew before. I was so thrilled to discover that she had been honored with a postage stamp!! Something we don't do here in the states until they have been deceased for 10 years. How silly! Why wait until they are dead! Silly, silly!

I loved that 80s white gown too Maggie. It's like a fairy tale dress and the wearer has turned into a Lily!

~Maureen

 

It's my preasure to read this page, Maureen. Thank you for your help that I know more about Prue Acton. I hope to read more about your writing in the future!

 

Very good job, Maureen.