Help Dating Coat Fashioned for Purcell's (Jacksonville) of Forstmann Virgin Wool

Jennifer Kietzman

Jennifer Kietzman

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I'm hoping someone might have insight as to whether this is a 1940s or 1950s coat. The quirky application of fur trim makes me think 40s, but the Internet indicates Purcell's was an upscale Jacksonville, FL clothing store that was in business between the late 30s to the 50s, and that makes me think it might be a 50s coat. In addition to the Purcell's and Forstmann labels (pictures attached), the coat has a National Recovery Board: Coat and Suit Industry label, which I know dates it from between 1938 and 1964. I just love the fur trim and sleeves of this! And if it's of any help, the coat has shoulder pads.

Also, every now and again, I run across a label that has been attached upside down, as is the case with the Purcell's label. Is this just an accident, or does it signify something? Haha, could it be Satan's handiwork?! All joking aside, I've always found it odd.

Thanks for your help!
 

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  • Purcell's Back.JPG
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  • Purcell's Forstmann Label.JPG
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  • Purcell's Front.JPG
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  • Purcell's Label.JPG
    Purcell's Label.JPG
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It is, isn't it?! I love admiring things with others! While it presents beautifully and was sold to me as being in great shape, it's suffered some moth grazing, which I was sad to discover. Alas, still gorgeous.
 
it's lovely, beautiful! with those tapered sleeves, placement of the fur on them, waist treatment, relative narrowness of the skirt, and length, i see 40s. probably just post-war, before the new look caught on in the states, which meant coats had to accommodate the longer and full skirts.

sometimes labels were sewn on upside down like this. the explanation i've always heard was when women would go out to lunch, for instance, and draped their coats over the backs of their chairs, the labels would show and be easily readable to others.
 
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I'm so glad you all like it!

Thanks for the freezer tip, but I have had it dry cleaned already. Over the years, I've become a real stickler for cleaning new garments just as soon as I get them home.

I was gunning for it being a 40s coat, so I'm especially happy to hear your thoughts. May I ask what is it about the waist treatment that seems 40s to you? I'm just trying to get a better handle on my gut feelings/first reads of coats.

That's a delightful explanation for the upside down labels. Love it! Thanks for sharing.
 
excellent that you've already gotten it dry cleaned :)

it's the wide set-in waistband on the front, with all the gathers above and below it, that says 40s to me, rather than 50s.
 
Ahh, yes, I have a good dry cleaner and a cheap dry cleaner. This was taken to the good dry cleaner!

Just realized I have yet to sort out what type of fur the trim is made of. Any guesses? I have yet to consult the VFG fur guide, so perhaps I'll start there in just a little bit.
 
I agree with 40s and absolutely beautiful. The fur type is Russian Squirrel. Very very pretty and yes the label was sewn on upside down so that when it was resting over a chair the label would be readable by others right side up.
 
Ahh, thank you!! You are all masters, and I am grateful for your help! And you can tell that it's Russian Squirrel just by looking at it? It's soft to the touch, but not soft like rabbit or oily like mink, and the hairs feel relatively fine. I'm so happy to have the mystery of the upside down label solved!
 
Jennifer Kietzman said:
Ahh, thank you!! You are all masters, and I am grateful for your help! And you can tell that it's Russian Squirrel just by looking at it? It's soft to the touch, but not soft like rabbit or oily like mink, and the hairs feel relatively fine. I'm so happy to have the mystery of the upside down label solved!
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You are most welcome. Many times I can tell just by looking at it. After years of handling furs, taking pictures of furs, and seeing pictures of furs I can often distinguish visual differences. Your description of the texture is spot on too. It is interesting how you can have different types of furs that all feel soft but in a different way. This is because of a combination of differences in the guardhair length, underfur present, overall density per square inch, and thickness of each individual fur strand.
 
Furwise said:
You are most welcome. Many times I can tell just by looking at it. After years of handling furs, taking pictures of furs, and seeing pictures of furs I can often distinguish visual differences. Your description of the texture is spot on too. It is interesting how you can have different types of furs that all feel soft but in a different way. This is because of a combination of differences in the guardhair length, underfur present, overall density per square inch, and thickness of each individual fur strand.
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Yes, it is interesting, and great to understand what accounts for the varieties of softness. Many thanks!
 
Hello,

That is a beautiful coat. I vote for 1940s, anywhere from early to mid 1940s. I have seen a few ads for Forstmann wool coats from the period of 1948 onward through the mid 1950s and they all have well below the knee length to mid calf. Here is one from 1948, and note that the skirt of the coat is actually quite a bit longer than the page of the magazine.

forst 48.jpg
 
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