Narrowing Down the Origin of a French Peacoat

[Samric]

Hi There! I found this peacoat at the thrift store recently and have been trying to determine (more precisely) its origins with little success.

It’s a navy blue wool peacoat with a dark gray lining of what seems to be rayon. The outer pockets are lined with olive green fabric.

It’s clearly of French origin or design. The tag and embroidered lapel patches are similar to those I’ve found on a few examples of French Navy coats online.

The buttons offer the most info. Sadly I wasn’t able to get good pictures of their backs and one is missing. On the front they have a circle of rope containing a foul anchor. On the backs they’re stamped T.W.&W. Paris. A very prolific manufacturer of buttons for well over a century. On their left side the number 23 is stamped (I’m assuming this is the year but I can’t confirm) above an anchor. The right side bears an M/M (merchant marine perhaps?) and what looks like a three masted ship atop a small circle or globe.

Any and all ideas, knowledge, and resources you’re able to offer are greatly appreciated!! Thanks!

 

[Avantbo]

Hi,

Love pea-coats, as a young boy, I was so fortunate to have an original 1943 one, which I permanently borrowed off an older brother, it was to big for me but he let me keep it because he said I looked kind of silly and cute in it. It became my everyday coat, I wore it so much.

One of my regrets in a way, I had out grown coat by miles and I swapped it as 15 year old for a BSA Bantam, I had a huge amount of fun on that bike, taking it apart, putting it back together and ridding it, yet still in many ways, the child in me, the regret lingers.

I have been looking for an original for many years, ( I have had a couple of 55 versions--I couldn't wear them ), can't find one in my chest size.

Anyways enough of that, is there a chance of closer shots of the cuffs, of the inside of the pocket/s, a photo of the full jacket lining, really interested in a closer shot of the appliqued lapel anchors and the button holes.

Are there any more tags, if service issued, there might be?

 

[The Vintage Vendeuse]

The buttons offer the most info... On the backs... On their left side the number 23 is stamped (I’m assuming this is the year but I can’t confirm)... The right side bears an M/M...

The 23 and M/M may indicate the size of the button... 23mm? Easy enough to check by measuring it!

EDIT:
I'm only finding the "newer" TW&W buttons have what appears to be the button size on the back. Does yours look like this 20mm (3/4") button?

 

[Samric]

Anyways enough of that, is there a chance of closer shots of the cuffs, of the inside of the pocket/s, a photo of the full jacket lining, really interested in a closer shot of the appliqued lapel anchors and the button holes.

Are there any more tags, if service issued, there might be?

I may not be 15, but given the opportunity to trade even a very nice coat for a bike like that nowadays I’d still be quite tempted.

A thorough search of the coat doesn’t reveal any more tags sadly, nor any places where a tag once was but was torn off or otherwise removed.

I’ve taken as detailed pictures as possible. Though my phone seems to be struggling to render colors sometimes, especially the inside of the pocket and stitching on the button holes.

The exterior pockets (above) are split between the blue wool of the coat and this softer green fabric towards their fronts.
The interior pockets are a more mesh like white rayon or nylon.

Please excuse my inability to lay the jacket flat, if you’d like closer pictures of any part of the liner I’m happy to provide.

The anchors are embroidered on a slightly deeper blue wool fabric. The stitching on the left patch has seen better days and will have to be re-sewn. That may be an opportunity to look at the back side of the patches.

 

[Samric]

The 23 and M/M may indicate the size of the button... 23mm? Easy enough to check by measuring it!

EDIT:
I'm only finding the "newer" TW&W buttons have what appears to be the button size on the back. Does yours look like this 20mm (3/4") button?

Hi Donna,

In retrospect the number indicating sizing seems quite obvious, and while I don’t have calipers laying around, an imperial tape measure and quick conversion seem to confirm that they’re 23mm .

In the daylight I was able to get slightly better pictures of the buttons. They match the picture you provided quite closely! Any ideas as to their original issue?

 

[The Vintage Vendeuse]

The buttons having their metric measurements, the outside pocket linings being constructed with flannel as opposed to a twill or corduroy, and the inside pocket having a nylon lining, all make me think newer. Just how new, I have no firm idea... pulling a decade out of the air, I'd guess no older than 1980s... and it may even be contemporary. But do wait for other opinions.
I also get the impression that it is a fashion coat, not true military issue, due to those embroidered anchor patches. Also, not all the buttons on your coat are functional. I remember reading somewhere that true military pea coats have buttons that are all functional, the coat could be buttoned left-over-right or vice versa, depending on the direction of the wind that day. But again, wait for other opinions.

 

[Avantbo]

Hi Samric,

My memory can be a little hazy.

Where to start or not without boring you silly.

I suppose to start off with, your jacket is not a Pea-Coat as such but more a reefer, this mainly due to the brass colour buttons, other then that there is little difference.

Originals, WW2 up to 69 I think had corduroy lined pockets, after this time a white lining used with either service or civilian coats.

The sleeve cuffs don't have double row stitching, a feature that stopped on service issue jackets by 1968.

Also around about the same time may a bit earlier, the double row of 8 or 6 button holes disappeared that allowed Jacked to be fastened either side, depending when on a ships deck the wind was blowing.

Yours doesn't have double row button holes which imo kicks it at least into the very late 70s.

It is difficult from a photo but your jacket looks like Melton wool, prior to 1970s such jackets were mainly made from a different wool and in Midnight Blue not Black Color as your Jacket.

To the best of my memory, French Navy Service Pea-Coats had red detailing on sleeves and the collar anchor applique was red.

Have to say the hand warmer pockets are throwing me a little, in later variations the pockets I believe were lower.

I think Donna's sizing on the buttons is bang on.

The buttons are original to the coat and replacing the missing one shouldn't be difficult.

The service style label is a bit of a red herring but not unusual. Manufactures of civilian Pea-Coats are not being deceptive--more militarizing their jackets,---think modern day or late vintage leather Bomber Jackets with their so called Air Force labels.

IMO I can't see your jacket being earlier then 1976 and may well be into the 80s.

 

[Samric]

…IMO I can't see your jacket being earlier then 1976 and may well be into the 80s.

Thanks for the response! Given both yours and Donna’s input I’m going to go with it being an 80’s civilian jacket styled after those from the French Navy.

Given the overall similarities yet lack of an exact match (mostly in the lack of red trim, and overall similar styling to a modern coat) with anything found online I had been thinking something similar when I first purchased it.

Thank you both for your input! I’m happy to have this coat and think it’ll make a great project and daily driver when fall comes.

 

[Avantbo]

I’m happy to have this coat and think it’ll make a great project and daily driver when fall comes.

Perfect and a great Jacket for the fall, complimented with a sweater, nice and toasty.

Later variations like yours were more of a square cut, not nipped in but that does allow for a jumper.

If I had my way I would ask every UK school to have as part of their school uniform a Pea-Coat, much more practical.

If you get a chance and you like the idea, remove the brass buttons and replace them with reproduction, wooden anchor or black pewter buttons, I've seen them available, to my eye more pleasing.

Nice find and a good buy.