1920s Dress Label. I can't find one piece of information on. HELP!

C

Chelsea Bernard

Registered Guest
I purchased a dress from an auction. It is presumably silk/ silk Chiffon. Glass bead work, a beautifule emerald green color, and has original label.
Hand Made L'ETOILE In France
Its had to take a photo of it as it is metallic and not great contrast between the gold and the green.
I have searched for hours about designers in the 1920s in France and looked at so many beautiful pieces but I can not find one similar to it.
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
I hope i inserted the photos correctly



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I see elements that look very 1920s to me. I think a flat lay picture would help to see the accurate draping, and then definitely keep this stored flat and not on a hanger! Does it have French seams throughout? If it is hand made and hand beaded and very heavy, you will want to store away from light. Also, the quality of work should be exceptional, if this is a true 20s high quality "flapper" style gown. I can't wait to see more pictures - this looks like a truly exceptional beauty!
 
It looks plausible to me, however, I don't like that the label is green - it suggests to me that the whole dress was dyed. Perhaps overdyed to cover staining/fading, but I don't think I have ever seen a label that is a colour from this period, other than black or white, although I have seen coloured writing - yellow, purple, red... Regardless, seeing it mounted on a form, and some close-up shots of the back would be good. They were all hand-made (beaded) at the time, so that should be evident on the back shot of the beading.
 
Jonathan said:
It looks plausible to me, however, I don't like that the label is green - it suggests to me that the whole dress was dyed.
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This would be one argument, if other elements show sign of restoration. Or, could be modern. However, due to the brilliance of the color, it is possible that is merely dye transfer, onto a white or creme label. This has enough interesting elements to have definitely peaked my curiosity!

Also, that partial channel at the drop waist is very interesting to me.
 
I will take some more photos. Unfornately it won’t fit me and I don’t have a mannequin to put it on. I did briefly have it on a hanger to air out a bit. It was purchased from an estate that has many vintage clothes stored away. I also purchased a 1940s Fred Perlberg dress. The funny thing is that dress is a similar green color but an iridescent taffeta. It did not have that tag but I did research and found the exact dress with tags in a different color. The seller also had another glass beaded dress but it was in need of quite of bit of repair. I wish I would have looked closer at that one for any additional markings.
 
1. Front Exterior
2. Back Exterior
3. Bottom Hem Exterior
4. Back Floral Exterior
5. Interior Hem & Tag
6. Interior
7. Interior Side detail
8. Interior Hem & Side Seam
9. Interior Floral
10. Interior Arm



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If it was dyed why is none if the stitching colored? I believe it to be cotton thread. And this green seemed to fairly accessible color during the times based on old advertisements for fabric.
 
It looks right for 1920s to me. Is the stitching white or beige, or is it a pale green? If not dyed, then perhaps some brave soul washed this dress and the dye ran onto the label. If the stitches for the thread are linen or cotton they would take the color run differently than the silk label.

Where is the label sewn? Looks like the bottom hem? If it were new I would expect the label to be inside the back of the neck.
 
Rue_de_la_Paix said:
It looks right for 1920s to me. Is the stitching white or beige, or is it a pale green? If not dyed, then perhaps some brave soul washed this dress and the dye ran onto the label. If the stitches for the thread are linen or cotton they would take the color run differently than the silk label.

Where is the label sewn? Looks like the bottom hem? If it were new I would expect the label to be inside the back of the neck.
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Stitching on hem is green, assuming to hide stitching better on the outside. Silk & cotton are both natural so if it was dyed I would think the stitching would be colored as well but it is not all other stitching is like a off white/cream color. Label is on inside of bottom hem, the label is also woven and the gold is has a metallic hue. I do agree it’s not a normal spot for label.
 
Chelsea Bernard said:
If it was dyed why is none if the stitching colored? I believe it to be cotton thread. And this green seemed to fairly accessible color during the times based on old advertisements for fabric.
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I don’t know! Sometimes I’ve dyed things, and the label takes the dye differently. I’m not exactly sure why it looks dyed to me, but that was my first instinct. The color looks somehow a little bit uneven…? It’s hard to tell from the pictures. Also, I’m no expert on 20s garments, but that label placement is completely weird.
 
A 1926 ad announced a fashion show which included...

LEtoileRobeCyTheatricalCostumes1926.jpg


It may be a bit hard to read, but it says the imported theatrical costumes on display were by Rue de La Paix and L Etoile Robe Cy. I wonder if your dress was one of the company's theatrical costumes, which might explain the likelihood of it having been dyed-or at least washed- for the theater.

…Although…I had an afterthought…would they have been so detailed with the beading on a costume to be seen at a distance on the stage? Not likely, I guess…
 
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lkranieri said:
Here is a 1925 ad for the L'Etoile Robe Co. in NYC. Note that at the bottom of the ad it states "Every Dress Hand Made in France" and your label states "Hand Made in France."

View attachment 185662

NOTE: This ad is posted for educational purposes only and must not be reproduced anywhere else, as it is copyright protected.
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I love that you've found these ads Lynne!
 
I’ve definitely found labels in the hem and far down the side seam and back waist. I don’t think it is terribly uncommon in older garments, before standardizing took place - as well waiting out the era where department stores removed labels to have their own shop label in a prominent display. Even FOGA garments rarely have the designer’s label (I’ve only seen in hats), and they were established as a sort of union to protect the designers and their creations.

I am fairly certain that the discoloration of the label is due to color transfer. If, at any point, the garment was hemmed under so the label was in constant contact with dye, that would have caused the transfer. Or, just in storage, if folded or draped.

That channel style treatment at the drop waist - it doesn’t go all the way around. That seems very 20s for the draping effect is would cause on a figure.
 
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