Dior--New York and update

[claireshaeffer]

I'm working on a short YouTube about Dior-NY and a couple of my garments. Ilooked online for some info about Dior-NY. There's very little except it began 2 years after the house opened. It was manufactured in the US with Union labels.

Since Dior could not manufacturer RTW in France in the 40s, it was probably a way to tap into the American market and compete with designers like Norell and Mainbocher. (Mainbocher did couture and RTW). According to a source at Dior, Mme Margurite was in charge. I'm not sure what that meant, but my thought is that she selected Dior designs that could be modified for the RTW market.

The garments are well made, but not couture, and the construction is slightly different from usual RTW techniques.
If you can provide any histrical info, I would appreciate it.

An update on my recent project. We packed and shipped 847 garments to Syracuse U for their fashion collection. It was definitely a lot of work. Meg recommended Anessa Woods who owns Bustown Vintage to work with me. She was unbelievably helpful. There is still a lot to do to reorganize the garments that are left. And, I must admit, it was very difficult to say "good-bye" to many garments.

I recently posted a YouTube about a 1970s Chanel blouse. It's a traditional suit blouse with a tie, but the construction is interesting. For example, the tie is a single layer and there are no French seams on an organza blouse. Think about the French seams. Homesewers put them on many garments at the drop of a hat; how often do you see them in couture or expensive RTW.

I had no problem signing in today, but the Forum didn't recognize me on several tries earlier.

Lastly, I still buy some couture and interesting RTW so don't hesitate to contact me. If it doesn't fit in my collection, I'll tell you.

All good wishes for the holidays. Claire

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

Claire,

The book "Couture and Commerce" is a source for more info on Dior NY. Still, there seems to be not much out there. Good luck!

 

[poppysvintageclothing]

Sorry to hear you have been having difficulty signing in, Claire.
Sounds like you have had your hands full organizing that massive donation.
Will keep you posted should I come up with something of interest for you.

 

[claireshaeffer]

Mary Jane, thanks. I haven't given any of my treasures from you away yet.
Barbara, thanks--I looked in several books I have, but found nothing. Christian Dior--NY was not an "American designer" and the couture house apparently considered it a step-child.
I'll check Couture and Commerce.

 

[MagsRags]

I did a bit of searching and found an April 2024 article on the Vogue Arabia website about Maria Grazia Chiurri and her "Dior New York inspirations". It does have some historical background. Chiurri:

Dior became immediately so well known because Carmel Snow defined the first collection and the first silhouette as the New Look. Six months later, he decided to open an atelier in New York, and adapt his collection to the different style of the women in New York City and America in general. Introduce more pockets, take off some corsets, and make it more easy to wear. In some way, it was the first idea of prêt-à porter. And they sent Marc Bohan here too. It shows the very strong relationship between Dior and New York, but also between Paris and New York.

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

Maggie, Chiurri may be incorrect on Marc Bohan, as he did not join Dior until the later 1950's (maybe 1958?) so Dior would not have sent him to New York to assist in launching the new line in 1949-1950. He was working for a different couture house at that time.

 

[MagsRags]

Dior would not have sent him to New York to assist in launching the new line in 1949-1950.

I’m not sure the author was intending to say that Marc Bohan was sent in the early days of Dior New York. Just that he was sent, at some unspecified time. But I agree it could be clearer.

 

[Vintagiality]

If you can provide any histrical info, I would appreciate it.

I remembered seeing a facebook post from someone commenting on a Dior New York suit awhile back and shockingly was able to find it.

He had said the following:

I wrote my master's thesis on Christian Dior-New York. Circa 1964-1967 Gaston Berthelot was designing the line then. This particular label was used in the 60s. The brand discontinued in 1971.
He added in a subsequent comment that it was opened on November 1948. The first collection presented was Spring 1949.

Perhaps you could reach out to him if you are looking for further info

 

[claireshaeffer]

Thanks for the info. I've spent several hours examining two garments from the 1960s.
1. They have US Union labels; I have to check Norell, Mainbocher, etc. They had workrooms and I don't remember them having union labels.
2. Both dresses are completely lined and they have separate facings (garment fabric) at the neck and armscyes. I don't remember ever seeing this before. Also, no understitching.
3. RTW would have the neck and armholes finished by machine; and couture would have them finished by hand.
4. I think Dior--NY had a contractor make them and they didn't know a RTW finish.
The garments are very nice, but the construction is very odd.
5. One dress has a lining that looks like "whipped cream." I think this was a nylon. Does anyone remember it?
Back to the union labels: I'm interested in any thoughts you have about the unions and which labels you have seen with labels.
I may be dreaming but I have hopes of finishing this over the week-end.
Oh, couldn't find my copy of Couture and Commerce hiding among the 2000+, but I found some other bits and pieces. Dior--Ny was really a step child, because he wasn't an American designer or house.
Lastly, no question Dior--NY is RTW, not couture; the quality is not the same as Mainbocher, Norell, Adrian, Irene, etc.

 

[claireshaeffer]

Victoria, thanks. I know Adnan and sent him an email. C

 

[Vintagiality]

I also saw this info about an earlier designer at Dior NY

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

Claire,

If you like, I can try to scan the pages in my own copy of the book and e-mail them to you?

 

[claireshaeffer]

Victoria, that is a fascinating obit. Many thanks.
Found my copy of Couture & Commerce--right not much about Dior NY except the business was managed by the French.

Claire,

If you like, I can try to scan the pages in my own copy of the book and e-mail them to you?

Thanks, Barbara, I found my book.

 

[Jonathan]

This is the text I used in our 2017 Dior exhibition. I would have to delve through files to get the references, but they all came from period newspaper accounts...

 

[Vintagiality]

It would be great to add all that info to the label resource with your permission @Jonathan

@Ranch Queen Vintage

 

[Jonathan]

Feel free

 

[claireshaeffer]

Jonathan, thank you.
Based on the construction of the garments, I think they used a contractor in NY. The designs are definitely couture, but the construction is sometimes couture, sometimes RTW, and sometimes simply odd--like they didn't know what to do. The facings fall into this category.

 

[claireshaeffer]

Thanks to all who provide some info for my YouTube. I'll included a mention to VFG in the description.
Here is the link:

 

[claireshaeffer]

I had an email from Adnan with the abstract for his thesis on Dior-NY, but I couldn't open the thesis so I wrote him again.

 

[Vintagiality]

I had an email from Adnan with the abstract for his thesis on Dior-NY, but I couldn't open the thesis so I wrote him again.

I actually think I found his entire thesis and the related abstract here

Christian Dior-New York, Inc.

Christian Dior-New York Inc. (CD-NY) was established in 1948 as a ready-to-wear line designed by Parisian couturier Christian Dior for the American market. Although it was designed by the head designer of the Paris house for the first half its history, by the early 1960s , when New York-based...

institutionalrepository.fitnyc.edu