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anyone-- do you have any thoughts about the construction techniques at the neck and armholes? Have you seen this on other garments?

Marsha, thanks for the post for those of us who missed it first time around. Claire

I had an email from Adnan with the abstract for his thesis on Dior-NY, but I couldn't open the thesis so I wrote him again.

Thanks to all who provide some info for my YouTube. I'll included a mention to VFG in the description. Here is the link:

Jonathan, thank you. Based on the construction of the garments, I think they used a contractor in NY. The designs are definitely couture, but the construction is sometimes couture, sometimes RTW, and sometimes simply odd--like they didn't know what to do. The facings fall into this category.

Victoria, that is a fascinating obit. Many thanks. Found my copy of Couture & Commerce--right not much about Dior NY except the business was managed by the French. Thanks, Barbara, I found my book.

Victoria, thanks. I know Adnan and sent him an email. C

Thanks for the info. I've spent several hours examining two garments from the 1960s. 1. They have US Union labels; I have to check Norell, Mainbocher, etc. They had workrooms and I don't remember them having union labels. 2. Both dresses are completely lined and they have separate facings...

I took a peek and left a bid reminding myself that the shipping would be at least $100.

Mary Jane, thanks. I haven't given any of my treasures from you away yet. Barbara, thanks--I looked in several books I have, but found nothing. Christian Dior--NY was not an "American designer" and the couture house apparently considered it a step-child. I'll check Couture and Commerce.

I've bought from Kerry Taylor several times and have always been pleased. My favorite Chanel suit (that I can wear) is from the 70s. Ok, I can't wear the skirt, but the jacket is fabulous. I must add that I , at least once, paid more for shipping than for the garment(s). Even so, I always...

I'm working on a short YouTube about Dior-NY and a couple of my garments. Ilooked online for some info about Dior-NY. There's very little except it began 2 years after the house opened. It was manufactured in the US with Union labels. Since Dior could not manufacturer RTW in France in the...

Frechtel was one of the manufacturers that copied Chanel.

It's probably marquisette which was used for curtains. I haven't seen it in decades.

This fabric is on a skirt I borrowed. It's definitely a leno or gauze weave and not silk. The skirt was made by a home-sewer or dressmaker. There's lots --maybe 10 yards-- of fabric so I'm assuming it is not enormously expensive. I've never seen it in a fabric store. Have you seen cheap leno...

Remember the article Lynne posted several months ago about the dressmakers. They were visiting someone in Rancho Palos Verdes. This is a very exclusive area and where they are having major landslides. Here is a link https://weather.com/news/video/california-portuguese-bend-landslide-impacts-spread

They could still be replacements, but not too recent.

This is a licensed Dior piece made in US.

The shoulder pads could be replacements.

I would agree that the fabric is probably nylon organdy. The white collar looks like pique. Is it cotton?

My original post was under Buying at Auction. I have a haute couture dress in my collection with a Cardin label. This is old-fashioned HC and the label is different from the other Cardin labels. Yes, if you want to put the label in the file.

The UTube on the Dior dress was finally posted. Here is the link: This was strange; I've never had this problem before. Generally, when I upload a Youtube and set the date for posting, it posts as scheduled. I changed the date several times before it finally posted. I'm not sure why...

Mary, I love it!

Lynne, I could read the article. It was very interesting. I'll post to VFG when I post the video. I don't remember a non-French and even some French couture houses that had this level of couture construction. Usually, there is a shortcut somewhere and for this dress, assembling the dress from...

Thx Lynne

This is very helpful. Do you have the first section of the article? Based on the article, a very good dressmaker in another country would buy the pattern, take it to the fabric dealer, purchase the fabric and get a label for each garment they made for clients. Is that right? Actually, they...

The label on this Dior is Patron Original. My guess is that it was sold to a manufacturer. This dress is very convoluted for rtw, but probably could be adapted. What do you think? The construction is completely haute couture. Any thoughts about the label? Thx for your input. Claire

The label doesn't look like a Chanel label.

Barbara, you might look for an American Sewing Guild chapter in your area. The website is ASG.org. The members are generally delighted to share their knowledge. If you're looking for a teacher, consider Association of Sewing & Design Professionals. All good wishes for many successes. C

Do we have a burn chart for VFG? If not, I can copy one of mine, but it's very basic.