Patron Original

claireshaeffer

claireshaeffer

VFG Member
The label on this Dior is Patron Original. My guess is that it was sold to a manufacturer.
This dress is very convoluted for rtw, but probably could be adapted. What do you think?
The construction is completely haute couture.
Any thoughts about the label?
Thx for your input. Claire
 

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This is very helpful. Do you have the first section of the article?

Based on the article, a very good dressmaker in another country would buy the pattern, take it to the fabric dealer, purchase the fabric and get a label for each garment they made for clients. Is that right?

Actually, they probably used a Commissionnaire who made the purchases for them. Manufacturers in the US like Davidow, Jablow, and stores like Saks would receive a Reference which listed all of the fabric and notions for each design and usually a garment.

This is not what I expected. The dress I have is very complex and the construction is traditional haute couture--no shortcuts.

The clipping from the V&A is the listing from Dior's book. It is different from a Reference. The Reference includes the name of the Commissionnaire as well as the items to buy.

I have a dress that was made by a Dressmaker in Stockholm. The same model was purchased by Vogue Patterns for a pattern. I think it is also a Dior. The pattern isn't with the dress today.

I think I'm going to leave my YouTube video as is--wrong--for now and come back to the label and just focus on the label. I assumed it was sold to a manufacturer. This dress is very convoluted and I then considered how you could make a successful rtw design.

As always, you are a jewel to share you vast collection of knowledge and articles.
Many thanks, Claire
 

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Lynne, I could read the article. It was very interesting. I'll post to VFG when I post the video.

I don't remember a non-French and even some French couture houses that had this level of couture construction. Usually, there is a shortcut somewhere and for this dress, assembling the dress from the pattern would be challenging.
 
The UTube on the Dior dress was finally posted. Here is the link:

This was strange; I've never had this problem before. Generally, when I upload a Youtube and set the date for posting, it posts as scheduled. I changed the date several times before it finally posted.

I'm not sure why it didn't post a week ago. I decided to leave the info I had already inputed in the YouTube, but I've added a note in the remarks.

In the meantime, this is what I learned. A dealer in LA (this came to me from a mutual dealer) had the same info as Lynne. I didn't talk with her so I don't know her source. One of my curator friends said it might have been put on the garment for a manufacturer. Another curator friend pointed out that it simply might have been the runway model by the House. I don't remember Dior selling models when I first went to Paris, but some houses did.

Again, I really appreciate the info about the label. If more turns up, please post.
 
Based on the article, a very good dressmaker in another country would buy the pattern, take it to the fabric dealer, purchase the fabric and get a label for each garment they made for clients. Is that right?
Click to expand...

That's what I thought too. The collection which formed the basis of the Swiss Textile Collection came from a rich lady (wife of a company owner). From ca. the 1960 to the 80s, she had a dressmaker here in Zurich who would go to some of the Haute Couture shows regularly and buy the patterns of some of the runway models, which she would then reproduce at couture standards in her salon. I have a small book about the lady and some of her clothes, and it says somewhere that the dressmaker had a contact, another lady, in Paris who had all the contacts at the Haute Couture houses and would make it possible for her to attend the shows. The majority of designs in this collection seem to be YSL, but not only.
 
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