Greetings Mavens... I recently picked up this lovely vintage coat in near-mint condition. The velvet fabric is wonderful, and a fiber burn test leads me to believe that it's silk pile on silk backing (no cotton or rayon). I compared it alongside a typical 80/20 silk velvet and they burned and smelled completely different. Was 100% silk velvet fairly common for fine apparel in the earlier part of the 20th century? A quick googling only told me that it's extremely pricey now. Also, I can't find much info on Maison Violette, except that they had a couple of Fifth Ave addresses and one on Madison. It the name or label familiar to anyone? TIA for any input! ✗ℴ✗ℴ✗
Rayon velvet doesn't really become a commercial fabric until almost the 1930s, so your early 20s coat would have to be either cotton or silk, and silk velvet is the better of the two. I have run across this label before, in an earlier dress - c. 1901. I believe it was more of a shop than a couturier, although they would have made things to order alongside selling imports.
Thanks, so much, Jonathan. The coat has cream-blush silk lining, all sewn in by hand, and an inside pocket hand adorned with little knots... sweet piece. Your museum looks amazing! Hope I have an opportunity to visit someday...
Isn't it? I just love '20s stuff! I got this amazing beaded, sequined, embroidered piece a few years ago and posted it here. It was outrageous!
That sable from my monitor looks like it's in very good condition, especially for the age. I wish I could touch it and see how soft it is. The first mention I could find of Maison Violette was in 1901. The article mentions both fabrics and fur. Maison Violette 1901 The last mention I could find was in 1926 when they were summons for labor violations. Maison Violette 1926 I am in hopes that these links are viewable to you so you are able to view them in full size. If not I can post them another way.
Thank you, Caryn! The sable is in really remarkable condition, considering it's age - probably Canadian. It's what initially attracted me to the coat... I absolutely adore vintage furs! I almost launched a subscription to 'newspapers' a few days ago, but it's just too spendy. Google brought up some books that list the various NYC location of Maison Violette... none in Paris, which I expect was added to the label for at touch of allure.
For some it justifies the expense and others not so much. When the latter is the case you just ask as you did now. All of us in the vintage community are pretty much happy to share.
They would have had an office address or postal box address in Paris, to keep that location on the label. But no actual studio, salon or shop. This was a common practice.
Both of your vintage items are gorgeous! Just wondering if there is an provenance with either of these beautiful coats. It would be so interesting to know anything about their past. Thanks for sharing with us!
I so enjoy it when some background is available... unfortunately nothing on these two lovelies! But owing to where I acquired the ornate Orientalist piece, I like to imagine it was worn to a ritzy event here (The Hotel Del Monte, in Monterey, CA).
I have a 94-year-old friend who's live her entire life in Monterey - she attended fancy balls at "The Del" and went on shopping excursions to I. Magnin and City of Paris in San Francisco. She gifted me that jaguar jacket in my avi (I added sable collar and cuffs when the Chanel-y back trim started to wear out). The Del Monte was the site of Salvador Dali's "Night in a Surrealist Forest" in 1941. [ ] It's now the Naval Postgraduate School.
