1930s Ocelot Coat - legal to import?

It looks 1950ish to me - the fullness in the body, the wide collar... If you get it appraised by a furrier I know from experience they will tell you its worth something like $20,000. Their argument is that its irreplaceable and therefore worth so much more. Frankly, I would return it to the dealer and tell them you want your money back. They actually sold it to you illegally - and the 30s story was their way of getting around the issue, but that coat is not 30s.
 
Because it was sold to you without the right documentation, I imagine that getting any export permit will be harder - I would think they will ask, where did you get this, and if you say you bought it, they may want to know who from.

I also agree about returning it to the dealer for a refund.
 
I agree with Jonathan on both counts: that it dates to the 1950s and also that you should return it. Even a very experienced vintage dealer isn't an expert on everything although personally, I consider anyone that shrugs off custom regulations to be unethical or unprofessional. As Linda mentions, we should treat customs with respect.
 
lining1.jpg
 
I'm having a bit of trouble uploading the rest of the photos of the lining, anyone that is interested can find them at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dpoeb9v97hb6xiy/oxCy0RZbQr

I've also taken a few photos of details of the fastenings, which look very un-vintage to me. Is it possible that the coat could have been refurbished? The lining also really does seem in very good condition, i thought it might have been re-lined when i first bought it.

I won't be able to return the garment as i wont be in london on a thursday again this trip. I negotiated the price on this coat down massively to GBP140, (i am betting the dealer just wanted it off his hands) so honestly i don't mind just leaving it with a family member here and wearing it when i am back in the UK. It really is a beautiful piece... priceless to own but obviously worthless if you want to try to sell or export it!
 
A lot of helpful responses and excellent advice posted regarding this jacket so far. This jacket is Geoffroy's Cat and it indeed does date to the 50s. The lining color and fabric was very common in the 50s in fur garments as well as other coats. The lining seen in fur garments from the 40s were usually a raw silk or crepe silk in dark brown, rust, and wine solid colors. The collars from the 40s were small and sometimes non existent. Collars began to get bigger in the 50s. As we approached the 60s sleeves got shorter, then moving forward into the later 60s and into the 70s collars got even bigger and paisley, geometric, and other bold muticolored satin linings were used.
Those who could not afford Leopard or Ocelot fur back in the day when all were permitted to be traded opted to buy Geoffroy's Cat which looked similar with a much lower price tag.
 
vgirl said:
A lot of helpful responses and excellent advice posted regarding this jacket so far. This jacket is Geoffroy's Cat and it indeed does date to the 50s. The lining color and fabric was very common in the 50s in fur garments as well as other coats. The lining seen in fur garments from the 40s were usually a raw silk or crepe silk in dark brown, rust, and wine solid colors. The collars from the 40s were small and sometimes non existent. Collars began to get bigger in the 50s. As we approached the 60s sleeves got shorter, then moving forward into the later 60s and into the 70s collars got even bigger and paisley, geometric, and other bold muticolored satin linings were used.
Those who could not afford Leopard or Ocelot fur back in the day when all were permitted to be traded opted to buy Geoffroy's Cat which looked similar with a much lower price tag.
Click to expand...

Hi Caryn,
Thank you so much for your help! This is so so useful, and much appreciated. As i am looking for an "expert" testimony on the coat (to apply for the CITES permits) i took it to a couple of antique dealers yesterday who could not help me, but i do plan to take it to an auction house tomorrow... failing this, would you mind if i submitted your diagnosis? Are you a fur or vintage dealer?

Thanks again
 
Hi Jenny, I love all vintage but I am first and foremost a vintage fur dealer. I buy furs, sell furs, and have a site dedicated to providing information about furs. I do offer identification and age determination services through my site however being I am not a VFG trade member I do not think I am allowed to share the link to my site here. I am fairly certain that the documentation from you is going to be required to appear on company letter head with an address and phone number of the company so the department handling the Cites application can contact or confirm the legitimacy of the company.
 
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