shesabettie
Registered Guest
Okay, just emailed someone at Ohio State so I'll keep you posted on any interesting updates 
1940's ADRIAN ORIGINAL Suit discovered!
- Thread starter shesabettie
- Start date
incredible! a hearty congratulations to you!
Bombshell*Frocks
Alumni
Wow! That suit is incredible! I have had the luck to find several Adrian's, each one was a classic beauty all on it's own. I wouldn't sell that suit for under $3k, I sold a larger sized solid colored suit for $1600 with no problem and if it is a wearable size $$$$$$ Good Luck!
glamoursurf
Alumni
I have some info for you. This suit is pictured in an article I have from Threads magazine May 2001.
'Working often with NY textile designer Pola Stout, Adrian designed many suits that capitalized on the subtle stripes and tiny geometric figures she wove into her wool fabrics (two examples of which are shown in the above images). Adrians manipulation of stripes, often intricately pieced and always beautifully matched, was legendary.
The most visually exciting geometric effects often occur when two or more lines intersect at different points. Depending on the position and direction - horizontal, vertical or diagonal - the figure as a whole or certain targeted areas can be lengthened, shortened, made to recede, or appear to be larger.
The brown checked jacket positively vibrates with energy. Technically, the perceived movement created by the checks is called 'autokinetic' or self moving. Four different sizes of the same check are combined in the jacket. The smallest check is reserved for the upper yoke, minimizing broad shoulders. A medium sized check is used for the next level, with a larger check occupying the next two sections. The same fabric stacking is used down the right sleeve. The real pizzazz comes from the giant-sized checked material of the jacket and sleeve. The dramatic slashes move the eye across the body, never allowing it to settle on one particular spot. They pierce the visual lane with staccato gestures. Any figure faults become secondary to the movement created by these inserts."
Another paragraph gives some insight into the time and labeling of his works.
"With the opening of Adrian, Ltd., in the fall of 1941, a new chapter started in Adrians life. Cut off from their usual Parisian sources of inspiration and forced to observe fabric restrictions by World War II, American designers such as Adrian, Normal Norell, and Pauline Trigere were beginning to define the "American Look." Adrian offered a full line of clothing: his ready to wear line carrying the "Adrian Original" label and his couture clothing, "Adrian Custom," sold through his Beverly Hills salon. But it was his imaginative suits that really captured the spirit of the times. "
So your fabric is wool and would have been designed by Pola Stout.
Lizzie, you may want to include the label info in the Adrian bio too!
'Working often with NY textile designer Pola Stout, Adrian designed many suits that capitalized on the subtle stripes and tiny geometric figures she wove into her wool fabrics (two examples of which are shown in the above images). Adrians manipulation of stripes, often intricately pieced and always beautifully matched, was legendary.
The most visually exciting geometric effects often occur when two or more lines intersect at different points. Depending on the position and direction - horizontal, vertical or diagonal - the figure as a whole or certain targeted areas can be lengthened, shortened, made to recede, or appear to be larger.
The brown checked jacket positively vibrates with energy. Technically, the perceived movement created by the checks is called 'autokinetic' or self moving. Four different sizes of the same check are combined in the jacket. The smallest check is reserved for the upper yoke, minimizing broad shoulders. A medium sized check is used for the next level, with a larger check occupying the next two sections. The same fabric stacking is used down the right sleeve. The real pizzazz comes from the giant-sized checked material of the jacket and sleeve. The dramatic slashes move the eye across the body, never allowing it to settle on one particular spot. They pierce the visual lane with staccato gestures. Any figure faults become secondary to the movement created by these inserts."
Another paragraph gives some insight into the time and labeling of his works.
"With the opening of Adrian, Ltd., in the fall of 1941, a new chapter started in Adrians life. Cut off from their usual Parisian sources of inspiration and forced to observe fabric restrictions by World War II, American designers such as Adrian, Normal Norell, and Pauline Trigere were beginning to define the "American Look." Adrian offered a full line of clothing: his ready to wear line carrying the "Adrian Original" label and his couture clothing, "Adrian Custom," sold through his Beverly Hills salon. But it was his imaginative suits that really captured the spirit of the times. "
So your fabric is wool and would have been designed by Pola Stout.
Lizzie, you may want to include the label info in the Adrian bio too!
TangerineBoutique
VFG Member
What a fabulous find!!!
Melody
Melody
Pam, that's amazing, great info!
The man could cut.
I have held on to a couple of the Adrians I have found, they are buried deep in a closet. Sold all the others.
LOL, I may end up buried in my favorite one... a dress & coat in magenta & black.
The man could cut.
I have held on to a couple of the Adrians I have found, they are buried deep in a closet. Sold all the others.
LOL, I may end up buried in my favorite one... a dress & coat in magenta & black.
vertugarde
Alumni
That's great Pam. Thank you.
shesabettie
Registered Guest
I now have a link to photos of the jackets back seams, the label, and the hole that is found in the fold of the collar (towards the inside thankfully!) Now that I look at it more closely, it is probably not an easy fix - mostly because of the inticate gingham pattern of the fabric. But perhaps there is a way to patch so it does not enlarge any further.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2062324&id=1166337453&l=ebb3066dc2
Thank you all so much for your kind words and excitement for my find! I am very happy to say the least
No word yet from Ohio State. If and when I do, you'll be the first to hear!
xoxo,
Jenn
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2062324&id=1166337453&l=ebb3066dc2
Thank you all so much for your kind words and excitement for my find! I am very happy to say the least
No word yet from Ohio State. If and when I do, you'll be the first to hear!
xoxo,
Jenn
shesabettie
Registered Guest
Oh, and here are her approximate measurements!
Jacket:
15.5" shoulder seam to shoulder seam (with pads)
19" armpit to armpit (x2)
14" waist (x2)
27" length (top center of collar to bottom center of hem)
Skirt:
13" waist (x2)
19-20" hip (x2 - has some give to fabric)
29.5" length (top center of waist to bottom center of hem)
Also, 2" seam allowance at back (could probably let out an additional inch)
Jacket:
15.5" shoulder seam to shoulder seam (with pads)
19" armpit to armpit (x2)
14" waist (x2)
27" length (top center of collar to bottom center of hem)
Skirt:
13" waist (x2)
19-20" hip (x2 - has some give to fabric)
29.5" length (top center of waist to bottom center of hem)
Also, 2" seam allowance at back (could probably let out an additional inch)
glamoursurf
Alumni
From NY Times obituary 1984:
Mrs. Stout was born in Stry, Poland, and studied fabric design in Vienna.
From 1940 to 1945, she designed for Botany Mills, and in 1946, underwritten by eight manufacturers, she set up her own textile mill in North Philadelphia.
She created fabrics for Edith Head, Dior, Norell and Jo Copeland, among others. Exhibits of her textiles were held at the Philadelphia Museum of Art and the Fashion Institute of Technology.
I'll be pleased to hear what you hear from Kent State, here are some of her works in the collection
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/adrian/stout.htm
"Little is known of the fabric designer Pola Stout except that she made exclusive fabrics for Adrian in several collaborations. The process was a combination of either Stout's fabric coming first and a jacket designed to fit the fabric or Stout working out a pattern to fit into the confines of Adrian's idea of a garment. Pola Stout would create the first sample fabric by hand and are primarily but not always monochromatic in subtle color families. The horizontal and vertical lines of Stout's work melded wonderfully to Adrian's simple yet chic design sensibility."
Mrs. Stout was born in Stry, Poland, and studied fabric design in Vienna.
From 1940 to 1945, she designed for Botany Mills, and in 1946, underwritten by eight manufacturers, she set up her own textile mill in North Philadelphia.
She created fabrics for Edith Head, Dior, Norell and Jo Copeland, among others. Exhibits of her textiles were held at the Philadelphia Museum of Art and the Fashion Institute of Technology.
I'll be pleased to hear what you hear from Kent State, here are some of her works in the collection
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/adrian/stout.htm
"Little is known of the fabric designer Pola Stout except that she made exclusive fabrics for Adrian in several collaborations. The process was a combination of either Stout's fabric coming first and a jacket designed to fit the fabric or Stout working out a pattern to fit into the confines of Adrian's idea of a garment. Pola Stout would create the first sample fabric by hand and are primarily but not always monochromatic in subtle color families. The horizontal and vertical lines of Stout's work melded wonderfully to Adrian's simple yet chic design sensibility."
glamoursurf
Alumni
I've done a reprint of the Adrian article with pics on my bog today for those interested.
http://www.glamoursplash.com/2010/04/gilbert-adrian-master-fashion-designer.html
http://www.glamoursplash.com/2010/04/gilbert-adrian-master-fashion-designer.html
shesabettie
Registered Guest
Hello all :kiss2:
I finally heard back from Gayle Strege and Leta Hendricks at Ohio State University.
Response from Gayle Strege: That is our suit exactly! I didn't think there could be another one out there because of the asymmetry of the design and the price it must have cost to produce given the number of different pattern pieces. Although, the "Adrian Original" label clothing was not the one of a kind "Adrian Custom" label clothing.
I think Mary Elliott did a pattern of this garment that she published in Threads magazine a number of years ago. I think we have a copy in our files and can look it up if you like.
Response from Leta Hendricks: The suits appear to be similar. Please review the Database description and the two attached images.
Adrian "original" brown & white gingham wool suit; long hip length jacket (a); long set-in sleeves; notched pointed collar;
horizontal slash pocket, self bound on lower right side just below the natural waistline; jacket consists of 4 different sizes
of gingham, smallest squares form the yoke and collar back and front, the section below that is a little larger, and the lower
jacket has even larger checks; the right side of the jacket and right sleeve has a method of slashing almost forming a pocket
effect at each horizontal panel; slashing begins from a point at center front where it gradually increases in size to the side
seam, this is continued on the back; each under panel is the largest size check; jacket is lined in russet silk crepe; b) skirt-
straight, one gingham size, knife pleat at lower left side.
The photos attached are of the same suit featured in the "Threads" article Pam posted.
Just thought I'd pass along the information to any of you interested.
Thanks again for everyone's enthusiastic help and excitement for my wonderful find!
xoxo,
Jenn
I finally heard back from Gayle Strege and Leta Hendricks at Ohio State University.
Response from Gayle Strege: That is our suit exactly! I didn't think there could be another one out there because of the asymmetry of the design and the price it must have cost to produce given the number of different pattern pieces. Although, the "Adrian Original" label clothing was not the one of a kind "Adrian Custom" label clothing.
I think Mary Elliott did a pattern of this garment that she published in Threads magazine a number of years ago. I think we have a copy in our files and can look it up if you like.
Response from Leta Hendricks: The suits appear to be similar. Please review the Database description and the two attached images.
Adrian "original" brown & white gingham wool suit; long hip length jacket (a); long set-in sleeves; notched pointed collar;
horizontal slash pocket, self bound on lower right side just below the natural waistline; jacket consists of 4 different sizes
of gingham, smallest squares form the yoke and collar back and front, the section below that is a little larger, and the lower
jacket has even larger checks; the right side of the jacket and right sleeve has a method of slashing almost forming a pocket
effect at each horizontal panel; slashing begins from a point at center front where it gradually increases in size to the side
seam, this is continued on the back; each under panel is the largest size check; jacket is lined in russet silk crepe; b) skirt-
straight, one gingham size, knife pleat at lower left side.
The photos attached are of the same suit featured in the "Threads" article Pam posted.
Just thought I'd pass along the information to any of you interested.
Thanks again for everyone's enthusiastic help and excitement for my wonderful find!
xoxo,
Jenn
Metro Retro Vintage
VFG Member
Oh my! Such an incredible suit and fabulous information provided by everyone!
Still reading and catching up, and trying not to drool too much into my coffee, lol.
Still reading and catching up, and trying not to drool too much into my coffee, lol.